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2000 nissan frontier v6 Iam installing new std conecting bearring rods. Iam using yellow plastic gauge. What the clarence range should be

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE:

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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mx5turbo92
  • 545 Answers

SOURCE: i'm looking for the 2000 isuzu rodeo 3.2L v6 connecting rod bearings torque specs.

1. Check the connecting rod alignment If either the bend or the twist exceeds the specified limit,the connecting rod must be replaced. Bend per 100 mm (3.937 inch) Limit: 0.15 (0.0059) Twist per 100 mm (3.937 inch) Limit: 0.20 (0.0078)

2. Measure the connecting rod thrust clearance. Use a feeler gauge to measure the thrust clearance at the large end of the connecting rod If the clearance exceeds the specified limit, the connecting rod must be replaced. Standard: 0.16 mm - 0.35 mm (0.0063 inch - 0.0138 inch) Limit: 0.40 mm (0.0157 inch)

3. Measure the oil clearance between the connecting rod and the crankshaft.

    1. Remove the connecting rod cap nuts and the rod caps (12). Arrange the removed rod caps in the cylinder number order.
    2. Clean the rod bearings and the crankshaft pins.
      1. Carefully check the rod bearings. If even one bearing is found to be damaged or badly worn, the entire bearing assembly must be replaced as a set. Reinstall the bearings in their original positions. Apply plastigage to the crank pin.
      2. Reinstall the rod caps (12) to their original positions. Tighten the rod cap nuts. Torque: 54 Nm (40 ft. lbs.) Note: Do not allow the crankshaft to rotate.
      3. Remove the rod caps.
        1. Measure the width of the plastigage and determine the oil clearance. If the oil clearance exceeds the limit, replace the rod bearing as a set. Standard: 0.019 mm - 0.043 mm (0.0007 inch - 0.0017 inch) Limit: 0.08 mm (0.003 inch)
        2. Clean the plastigage from the bearings and the crankshaft pins.

Posted on Jun 04, 2009

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buffalonyman
  • 1865 Answers

SOURCE: How to get in to replace a rear tail light stop

look for screw inside the bed area, adjacent to the tailight covers. Remove two screws, and the taillight assembly pulls out

Posted on Aug 06, 2009

  • 3640 Answers

SOURCE: engine repair code P0325

po325--ignition system or missfire.

Posted on Sep 16, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: change brake light bulb on a 2000 Nissan Frontier

The entire bed line will need to be removed. The long screws that hold the metal bracet where the bed extender attaches also hold the tail light assembly in place.
I pulled the bed liner up at a 45 degree angle and layed it on top of the cab. This revealed the screws. Take both screws out and lay to the side along with the metal bracket for the bed extender.
Now firmly grab the edges of the tail light assembly and pull...there are 2 hard rubber nipples that snap in to hold the assembly. You will feel like you might break it but you won't..just pull straight back hard. The assembly will "POP" out and then you can just twist the back of each bulb there are (3) and pull out..now you will see the bulbs..just pull the bad bulb straight out and push the new one into place. Now just reassemble. Total time will be 30-45 min. for this repair.

Posted on May 04, 2010

jturcotte
  • 8980 Answers

SOURCE: how to install the timing

From autozone.com

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To install:


CAUTION Before installing the timing belt, confirm that the No. 1 cylinder is set at the TDC of the compression stroke.

  1. Remove both cylinder head covers and loosen all rocker arm shaft retaining bolts.



NOTE The rocker arm shaft bolts MUST be loosened so that the correct belt tension can be obtained.

  1. Install the tensioner and the return spring. Using a hexagon wrench, turn the tensioner clockwise and temporarily tighten the locknut.
  2. Be sure that the timing belt is clean and free from oil or water.
  3. When installing the timing belt, align the white lines on the belt with the punchmarks on the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets. Have the arrow on the timing belt pointing toward the front belt covers.



NOTE A good way (although rather tedious!) to check for proper timing belt installation is to count the number of belt teeth between the timing marks. There are 133 teeth on the belt; there should be 40 teeth between the timing marks on the left and right side camshaft sprockets, and 43 teeth between the timing marks on the left side camshaft sprocket and the crankshaft sprocket.

  1. While keeping the tensioner steady, loosen the locknut with a hex wrench.
  2. Turn the tensioner approximately 70-80 degrees clockwise with the wrench, then tighten the locknut.



WARNING If any binding is felt when adjusting the timing belt tension by turning the crankshaft, STOP turning the engine, because the pistons may be hitting the valves.

  1. Turn the crankshaft in a clockwise direction several times, thenslowly
  2. Apply 22 lbs. (10 kg) of pressure (push it in!) to the center span of the timing belt between the right side camshaft sprocket and the tensioner pulley, then loosen the tensioner locknut.
  3. Using a 0.0138 in. (0.35mm) thick feeler gauge (the actual width of the blademust12slowly!12
  4. Slowly rotate the crankshaft clockwise several more times, then set the No. 1 piston to TDC of the compression stroke.
  5. Position the 2 timing covers on the block, then tighten the mounting bolts to 24 ft. lbs. (35 Nm).
  6. Press the crankshaft pulley onto the shaft, then tighten the bolt to 90-98 ft. lbs. (123-132 Nm).
  7. Connect the radiator hose to the thermostat housing.
  8. Reconnect the fresh air intake tube at the cylinder head cover.
  9. Install the air conditioning compressor drive belt idler pulley and bracket.
  10. Install the distributor protector (dust shield).
  11. Install the spark plugs.
  12. Install the power steering, air conditioning compressor and alternator drive belts.
  13. Install the radiator.
  14. Reconnect the water pump hose and fill the engine with coolant. Install the fan shroud and pulleys.
  15. Install the engine undercover.
  16. Start the engine and check for any leaks.

Posted on Sep 21, 2010

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1 Answer

Which rod bearings???????


what you are seeing are under sizes for bearings available for when the crankshaft is ground
you have to measure the journals with a micrometer to see it it is standard size or has been ground
or if you are just putting new bearings in during a quick engine rebuild then the bearing size will be stamped on the back of the shell
it will be either std or the .010" etc and you need the bearings with that size on them
anything else but std on a std crank journal will jam the shaft up--or .010" means that the crank has been ground .010" and needs bearings of that size
conversely if you put std shells on a .030" ground shaft , the bearings will flog out and oil pressure will be low to non existant

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