Wire from condenser &points go together? - Cars & Trucks

very unlikely
back firing is from partially open inlet valves , incorrect firing order , shorting across the points , faulty condenser , loose coil wires or faulty pigtail wire from the points plate to the ground ( distributor body)
seeing as to you have put in new points , I suspect that the condenser lead is shorting across to the points plate where it attaches to the moving point spring
also if the firing order is wrong after replacing the distributor cap that will also cause the problem

Google is your friend.

go back to the distributor and points
the condenser wire and the moving points have to insulated from the fixed point and I feel that your problem is in this area
to check this turn the motor over until the points are closed turn the ignition switch to run and use a plastic rod ( like a knitting needle ) open the points
you should get a spark if the moving point has been properly installed as by opening the point you interrupt the current flow to ground and as current has mass , it will jump across the points as they are opened
if you do not get that spark across the points , refit the points ensuring that the moving point is properly insulated by the plastic bush ( in right way with the flange on the bottom and fiber washer under the nut on top and the spring properly insulated on the condenser wire
what ever you do the wire from the coil is attached to that spring and it has to be insulated right up to the points

Hi, the condenser connects to the negative coil terminal and is used to absorb the point spark so the points will not wear out prematurely. If you are getting sparks in the points, I recommend you replace the condenser.

if you have spark coming from the end of the coil wire and none coming from the cap you need to replace the rotor bug.

Most likely the points, but check the low tension coil wiring as well. If the points have got stuck together during storage or if the wire to them is disconnected then you won't get a spark. If they've slipped totally closed you won't get a spark either. Replace the condenser at the same time, they don't last forever and are cheap.

After changing the points or re-gapping them, you MUST re-time the ignition, statically to begin and then dynamically once the engine is running. ****** the timing slightly from standard to take account of lead-free fuel, unless the car was supplied from new to a lead-free country.

Hello jjcurry: My name is Roger and I will help. You are working with a very basic ignition system. The points set st .019. These older cars and trucks had a bad habit of burning up the point. The ignition would be left on and this did not work well with points. The condenser would also be damaged. If you have power to the coil down to the distributor. With the key on take a screwdriver and break the points open while they are closed. They should spark. If not check the lead wire from the coil to the distributor for a open wire. Check to make sure the wire from the condenser is not grounded at the points connection. I would suggest replacing the points and condenser. Also check to make sure the rotor and cap are in good shape. The old rotors had a habit of burning through and shorting spark to ground. Should you need further help please just ask. Please rate the answer you received. Thank You for using Fix Ya. Roger

I had a 74 bonny the coils would often times arc out after being warmed up, run the bike at night and proceed to lightly mist the coils and plug wires rev up the mostor and look for arc out spots if none are spotted look into the points you may have the set too close together or the condensors are bad either way the ignition system is breaking down because of the heat factor and it may be somthing as imple as a weak ground connection go through all grounding connections and inspect the wiring harness for kinked wires and do a continuity test acroos the breaker points to ensure proper resistance and continuity, also if new condensors for the points were not provided with points purchase a set.

• Drain coolant from bottom hose through a valve
• Disconnect coolant hoses from radiator
• Remove front body section and move lock carrier to service position
• Remove retaining clamps from A/C hoses near condenser
  
• Unbolt A/C condenser from radiator and support condenser with wire or heavy duty tie wraps Note: Do not discharge the A/C refrigerant. Support the A/C condenser with wire and avoid stretching or kinking the hoses.
• Remove radiator mounting bolts from both sides and slide radiator slightly to the rear
• Remove radiator and fans together from below
• Installation is the reverse of removal
  

Did you set the gap on the points?