Spool of red wire in the underside wire harness.

yes the 18 AWG is a larger diameter wire.

Step 1: Pry and remove the retaining pins (3) that secure the interior panel to the UNDERSIDE of the glove compartment area (near the PASSENGER'S feet).

Step 2: Disconnect the blower motor's wiring harness (1).

Step 3: Loosen and remove the 7/32 mounting bolts (3) that secure the blower motor to the vehicle. Pull the blower motor from the vehicle.

Step 4: Disconnect the wiring harness (1) mounted just to the LEFT of the resistor.

Step 5: Loosen and remove the 7/32 mounting bolts (3) that secure the resistor to the vehicle.

NOTE: You only need to LOOSEN the rear bolts, as the resistor will slide free without completely removing them!

Step 6: You can now slide and remove the resistor.

Step 7: Mount the new resistor by tightening the 7/32 mounting bolts (3). Connect the wiring harness (1).

Step 8: Reattach the blower motor by tightening the 7/32 mounting bolts (3).

Step 9: Connect the blower motor's wiring harness (1).

Step 10: Re-engage the retaining pins (3) to secure the interior panel to the UNDERSIDE of the glove compartment area.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/lloyd_4256582adacd68ee

Hi Ronald:
Does your horn work now? If it does, the extra wire is not for the horn.

There is no such thing as an easy fix with electrics, however..down by the feet there is a kick panel, remove the panel and unplug the harness going into the door-well remove the door trim off the door and unplug the wiring off the controls, remove the loom and take it inside to repair the broken or frayed wires. or get a replacement from the wreckers., assembly is the reverse however, buy a roll of electrical tape and be generous in wrapping the loom once mounted back make sure the door is not pinching it anywhere, {zip ties work well} hope this helps, its fiddly but what may take a couple of hours will save you lots of swearing and frustration. good luck.

Glad to read you are a supporter of best practice.
I am not sure what 12 ga cable is. During my education it was number of strands and diameter of each strand, thus 13/0.012, 18/0.012, 63/0.012 and so forth. These days we are supposed to forget all that and specify the cross-sectional area - in mm would you believe.

I have worked on a few Sedonas but I can't tell you how or where the harness runs but I can tell you accessing the rear of the stock harness in order to fit tow bar wiring is not a simple task. When wiring the auxilliary socket I opted to run those dedicated cables to the battery along the underside sleeved in budget fuel hose. I have never felt following a stock harness to be the best or ultimate routing and wouldn't use that method unless it was more convenient.

Those Sedonas, incidentally, were fitted with a power socket in the rear load space for charging laptops, torches and suchlike up to 16 amps. Perhaps that might be convenient for your purpose?

DTC P1705 - NC2 (Direct Clutch Speed Sensor) Revolution Sensor Circuit malfunction or Direct Clutch Speed Sensor Output is 300 RPM or less with Vehicle at 20 MPH or more & with Park/Neutral Position Switch Off

Most probably you have an electrical fault causing the problem and attached is a diagnostic procedure. It could be 2 separate problems and after rectifying the P1705 only would you know it is single or 2. Repair manual shows right on top of transmission, black sensor with single bolt, 2 wire plug. P/N 89413-08020 list price $113.80

NOTE: DTC P1705 is set when PCM receives 2 gear position signals at the same time.

1. Turn ignition on. If any A/T gear position indicator lights remain illuminated when gear selector is moved from that gear, go to next step. If all A/T gear position indicator lights turn off when gear selector is moved from that gear, system is okay at this time.

2. Disconnect A/T gear position switch connector. If all A/T gear position switch indicators go out, replace A/T gear position switch. If all A/T gear position switch indicators do not go out, go to next step.

3. Reconnect A/T gear position switch connector. Shift through all gear positions except Reverse. Using a DVOM, measure voltage between 16-pin PCM harness connector "D", terminal No. 6 (Green/Red wire on 2.3CL or White wire on Accord and Odyssey) and 25-pin PCM harness connector "B" terminals No. 20 or 22 (Brown/Black wires).

If battery voltage is present, go to next step. If battery voltage is not present, check for a short in Green/Red or White wire between 16-pin PCM harness connector "D" and A/T gear position indicator, or A/T gear position switch. Repair as necessary. If Green/Red or White wire is okay, check for loose PCM harness connectors. Replace PCM with a known-good unit if necessary.

4. Shift through all gear positions except Neutral and Park. Measure voltage between 16-pin PCM harness connector "D", terminal No. 13 (Blue/White wire on Accord or Light Green wire on 2.3CL and Odyssey) and 25-pin PCM harness connector "B" terminals No. 20 or 22 (Brown/Black wires). If battery voltage is present, go to next step. If battery voltage is not present, check for a short in Blue/White or Light Green wire between 16-pin PCM harness connector "D" and A/T gear position indicator, or A/T gear position switch. Repair as necessary. If Blue/White or Light Green wire is okay, check for loose PCM harness connectors. Replace PCM with a known-good unit if necessary.

5. Shift through all gear positions except "D4". Measure voltage between 16-pin PCM harness connector "D", terminal No. 9 (Light Green/Black wire on 2.3CL or Yellow wire on Accord and Odyssey) and 25-pin PCM harness connector "B" terminals No. 20 or 22 (Brown/Black wires). If battery voltage is present, go to next step. If battery voltage is not present, check for a short in Light Green/Black or Yellow wire between 16-pin PCM harness connector "D" and A/T gear position switch. Repair as necessary. If Light Green/Black or Yellow wire is okay, check for loose PCM harness connectors. Replace PCM with a known-good unit if necessary.

6. Shift through all gear positions except "D3". Measure voltage between 16-pin PCM harness connector "D", terminal No. 8 (Green/Blue wire on 2.3CL or Pink wire on Accord and Odyssey) and 25-pin PCM harness connector "B" terminals No. 20 or 22 (Brown/Black wires). If battery voltage is present, go to next step. If battery voltage is not present, check for a short in Green/Blue or Pink wire between 16-pin PCM harness connector "D" and A/T gear position indicator, or A/T gear position switch. Repair as necessary. If Green/Blue or Pink wire is okay, check for loose PCM harness connectors. Replace PCM with a known-good unit if necessary.

7. Shift through all gear positions except "2". Measure voltage between 16-pin PCM harness connector "D", terminal No. 14 (Green/Yellow wire on 2.3CL or Blue wire on Accord and Odyssey) and 25-pin PCM harness connector "B" terminals No. 20 or 22 (Brown/Black wires). If battery voltage is present, go to next step. If battery voltage is not present, check for a short in Green/Yellow or Blue wire between 16-pin PCM harness connector "D" and A/T gear position indicator, or A/T gear position switch. Repair as necessary. If Green/Yellow or Blue wire is okay, check for loose PCM harness connectors. Replace PCM with a known-good unit if necessary.

8. Shift through all gear positions except "1". Measure voltage between 16-pin PCM harness connector "D", terminal No. 15 (Light Green/White wire on 2.3CL or Brown wire on Accord and Odyssey) and 25-pin PCM harness connector "B" terminals No. 20 or 22 (Brown/Black wires). If battery voltage is present, check for loose PCM harness connectors. Replace PCM with a known- good unit if necessary. If battery voltage is not present, check for a short in Light Green/White or Brown wire between 16-pin PCM harness connector "D" and A/T gear position indicator, or A/T gear position switch. Repair as necessary. If Light Green/White or Brown wire is okay, check for loose PCM harness connectors. Replace PCM with a known-good unit if necessary.


Hope helps.

Hope this helps:- Factory Disarm Purple/Yellow (-) Driver's Kick Panel Black Connector at ECM -slice into this wire, & wire it to ground, this disables the alarm.
Cavity/Fuse Diagram (1996 Grand Cherokee, passenger side kick plate to find, Owner's Manual pgs 205-206): 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22

Row 1: 1-6 (left to right) Row 2: 7-12 Row 3: 13-18 Row 4: 19-22
1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Fuse Panel (Passenger Side kick panel) Reply

CAVITY FUSE DESCRIPTION 1 -10 amp (RED) Radio 2 -15 amp (Lt Blue) Cigarette Lighter 3 -10 amp (RED) Rear Washer Switch, Body Controller 4 -10 amp (RED) Airbag 5 -10 amp (RED) Lamp Out Module, Overdrive Switch, OBD II 6 -15 amp (Lt Blue) Vehicle Information Center/Graphic Display Module Park & Side Lamps, Overhead Console Lighted Visor, Automatic Dimming Mirror 7 -20 amp (Yellow) Body Amp, Cluster, Body Controller 8 -20 amp (Yellow) Rear Wiper Motor, Flipper Glass Solenoid, Cargo Lamp, Trailer Tow 9 -15 amp (Lt Blue) Brake Switch 10- 10 amp (RED) Rear Window Defroster 11 -10 amp (RED) ABS Module 12 -10 amp (RED) Heater-Ventilation-A/C Control & Recirculation Motor 13 -15 amp (Lt Blue) Hazard Switch, Turn Signal Switch 14 -15 amp (Lt Blue) Spare 15 -15 amp (Lt Blue) Spare 16 -10 amp (RED) Right & Left Courtesy Lamp, Glove Box Lamp, Halo Lamp Cargo Lamp, Underhood Lamp, Dome/Read Lamp Right & Left Visor, Automatic Dimming Mirror 17 -15 amp (Lt Blue) Radio Illumination, Tail Lamp, Graphic Display Module, Park & Side Lamps, Headlamp Switch, Body Controller 18 -20 amp (Yellow) Spare 19 -15 amp (Lt Blue) Passing Light 20 -15 amp (Lt Blue) Radio, Heater-Ventilation-A/C, Vehicle Information Center 21 -15 amp (Lt Blue) Power Outlet 22 -10 amp (Blue) Airbag Module -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Alarm, Remote Starter, Keyless Entry Wiring Information Constant 12V+ Pink/Black Ignition Switch Harness Starter Yellow Ignition Switch Harness Ignition Dark Blue/Gray Ignition Switch Harness Ignition 2 Red/Black Ignition Switch Harness (for AC) Accessory Black/Orange Ignition Switch Harness Tach Gray/White Coil Brake Switch White/Tan Brake Switch Trunk Pin n/a Works with Dome Light Parking Lights Blue/Red (+) Left of Steering Column or Light Switch Head Lamp Tan/Black Light Switch Factory Disarm Purple/Yellow (-) Driver's Kick Panel Black Connector at ECM -slice into this wire, & wire it to ground, this disables the alarm. Door Trigger Yellow (-) Driver's Kick Panel see notes Door Lock 5/Wire in Driver's Inside Driver's Door Orange/Purple Lock Pink/Black Unlock Door Unlock and Passenger's Doors Inside Passenger's Door Black/White L Pink/Black Unlock Horn Wire Gray/Orange (-) Steering Column Windows Up LF=Light Blue, RF=Brown/White, LR=Blue/White, RR=Gray/Black Doors Windows Down LF=White, RF=Purple/White, LR=Red/Black, RR=Green/White
• Cruise Control Information • Stereo Information • View all Jeep Vehicles

Hope this helps:
Cavity/Fuse Diagram (1996 Grand Cherokee, passenger side kick plate to find, Owner's Manual pgs 205-206): 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22

Row 1: 1-6 (left to right) Row 2: 7-12 Row 3: 13-18 Row 4: 19-22
1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Fuse Panel (Passenger Side kick panel) Reply

CAVITY FUSE DESCRIPTION 1 -10 amp (RED) Radio 2 -15 amp (Lt Blue) Cigarette Lighter 3 -10 amp (RED) Rear Washer Switch, Body Controller 4 -10 amp (RED) Airbag 5 -10 amp (RED) Lamp Out Module, Overdrive Switch, OBD II 6 -15 amp (Lt Blue) Vehicle Information Center/Graphic Display Module Park & Side Lamps, Overhead Console Lighted Visor, Automatic Dimming Mirror 7 -20 amp (Yellow) Body Amp, Cluster, Body Controller 8 -20 amp (Yellow) Rear Wiper Motor, Flipper Glass Solenoid, Cargo Lamp, Trailer Tow 9 -15 amp (Lt Blue) Brake Switch 10- 10 amp (RED) Rear Window Defroster 11 -10 amp (RED) ABS Module 12 -10 amp (RED) Heater-Ventilation-A/C Control & Recirculation Motor 13 -15 amp (Lt Blue) Hazard Switch, Turn Signal Switch 14 -15 amp (Lt Blue) Spare 15 -15 amp (Lt Blue) Spare 16 -10 amp (RED) Right & Left Courtesy Lamp, Glove Box Lamp, Halo Lamp Cargo Lamp, Underhood Lamp, Dome/Read Lamp Right & Left Visor, Automatic Dimming Mirror 17 -15 amp (Lt Blue) Radio Illumination, Tail Lamp, Graphic Display Module, Park & Side Lamps, Headlamp Switch, Body Controller 18 -20 amp (Yellow) Spare 19 -15 amp (Lt Blue) Passing Light 20 -15 amp (Lt Blue) Radio, Heater-Ventilation-A/C, Vehicle Information Center 21 -15 amp (Lt Blue) Power Outlet 22 -10 amp (Blue) Airbag Module -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Alarm, Remote Starter, Keyless Entry Wiring Information Constant 12V+ Pink/Black Ignition Switch Harness Starter Yellow Ignition Switch Harness Ignition Dark Blue/Gray Ignition Switch Harness Ignition 2 Red/Black Ignition Switch Harness (for AC) Accessory Black/Orange Ignition Switch Harness Tach Gray/White Coil Brake Switch White/Tan Brake Switch Trunk Pin n/a Works with Dome Light Parking Lights Blue/Red (+) Left of Steering Column or Light Switch Head Lamp Tan/Black Light Switch Factory Disarm Purple/Yellow (-) Driver's Kick Panel Black Connector at ECM Door Trigger Yellow (-) Driver's Kick Panel see notes Door Lock 5/Wire in Driver's Inside Driver's Door Orange/Purple Lock Pink/Black Unlock Door Unlock and Passenger's Doors Inside Passenger's Door Black/White L Pink/Black Unlock Horn Wire Gray/Orange (-) Steering Column Windows Up LF=Light Blue, RF=Brown/White, LR=Blue/White, RR=Gray/Black Doors Windows Down LF=White, RF=Purple/White, LR=Red/Black, RR=Green/White
• Cruise Control Information • Stereo Information • View all Jeep Vehicles

If the fluid is dark and thick, nothing is really going to make this system work optimally. You need to get the fluid replaced with new fluid before anything else. That, by itself might solve your problems.

Once you have done that, if you still have the problem, you have a bad spool valve. There is a valve that has a bobbin (or spool) that rides in a cylinder. When the spool is centered, the fluid pumped to the valve is returned to the reservoir. As you steer, if the wheels resist turning, that spool is shifted a little, closing the outlet to the reservoir a little, and an opening to the hydraulic assist is opened a little. The more you turn the steering wheel without the wheels re-aiming, the farther that spool moves, finally directing all of the output of the pump to the hydraulic assisting component.

If there is some foreign object that will not let the spool move that way, you won't get any assist that way. If the holes in the spool valve are blocked, the fluid will not get pumped to the hydraulic assist, and the pump pressure will rise quite high. There is a pressure relief valve, and new hoses can withstand this pressure, by older hoses will burst if subjected to this kind of thing. (This is why you should never hold the steering wheel at full lock on a power-assisted-steering vehicle.

It sound like what you need to do (this is what I would do) is remove the spool valve, drain all the fluid from the system, refill it, put in a new spool valve, and replace the fluid once more after about 20 minutes of running. Power steering fluid has a lot of detergent in it, so it can be used to clean the system...

1) remove the 2 screws from the door. There is one behind the handle and one on the arm rest where you pull the door shut. Pry off the little plastic covers and simply screw them out. There might also be one on the bottom of the very bottom of the door panel, but there was not on my van. 2) Pry off the auto window control panel. It takes some force, but should off clean and be able to re-insert without any replacement parts. 3) Pull the door panel off. It's held on by a number of clips, so you'll want to start at one corner and pull all the way around. It sounds like you are breaking the door, but it's just the sound of the clips popping. YOU MAY BREAK SOME CLIPS, but you can re-insert them easily...if you can find them. I had to look at 3 different auto parts stores. But you can move them around so that they are in the right place and get by with less clips than you think when you replace the door. 4) push the panel up over the lock button and pull slowly back and unplug the connection to the control panel, this should pull out pretty easily. Then disconnect the door handle from the rod by rotating it and pulling down. It will push right back in the same way. 5) The motor is at the bottom and is connected to the regulator. check the regulator to make sure it's not damaged. If it really is just the motor, you won't hear anything when you push the window button. If the regulator is locked up, you will hear the motor trying to push against it. 6) Unplug the electric connection from the motor. 7) Make sure the window is held in place. I taped it in place, but the tape left a residue, so if possibe, you'll want to wedge something in to hold it fully upright. 7) Use a pliers to remove the circular sheet metal cover that attaches the regulator to the motor. I pulled this off before disconnecting the motor itself and then pulled the white wire coil off and attached it to my new motor to make sure everything worked before removing the old motor. 7a) Beware of the regulator cables wrapped around the spool. In my case, once I got the spool and cable guide off of the motor, the cables unraveled instantly from the spool.
7b) Since they are unraveled anyways, pull the cable ends out of the spool and place the white cable keeper on the motor. 7c) Run the cables through the cable keeper with the spring spacer tube feeding into the end. 7d) To wind the cables back up, lock the cable end from the right back into the front of the spool and wind it in the logical direction (I say this because the lock on the spool points the cable in the direction it will be wound). 7e) Next thread and lock the back (short cable coming from the left if your window was stuck in the full up position) cable into the lock on the back of the spool and again wind in the logical direction. This is another tricky part because the cables will be very tight when wound correctly. i held the spool horrizontal and had to pull the back (now top) cable over the first wind of itself in order to get it in the correct position. 7f) Now slowly and carefully tilt the spool back to the normal vertical position and see if it miraculously matches the position of the new motor shaft (square). Don't worry, if it doesn't, temporarily hook up the motor wire to the motor and the window switch (unless you have a helper who can operate the drivers side switch) to the car wire and slightly tap it. 1 tap was all it took for mine to line up and on it went.
8) Attaching the regulator coil to the new motor is easy, just push it in place and re-attach the metal cover by bending the little tabs back over the motor. If the square drive is not alligned with the regulator coil indent, you can plug in the new motor and use the swith to rotate it into place. This is also a good check to make sure it works and that you problem is not in the wiring. 9) After the metal cover is back on, reconnect the electrical and you can test the new motor before you actually mount it. 10) To remove the old motor, there are 3 bolts with rubber encased nuts on the back. They will screw out, but they can be tricky. First try holding with your fingers. If that doesn't work, try a thin pair of pliers (like needle nose), but make sure they are as close to the sheet metal as you can get. If that fails, the rubber is most likely weakened and you should be able to just pull or wedge the motor away from the door and the nut will pull out of the rubber (I was able to get one with my fingers, one with pliers and had to pull the other thru).
11) Then I bought some new bolts, nuts and washers and screwed the new motor in normally. Optionally, the bolts and rubber washers can be replaced by parts from a home improvement store such as Lowe's or Home Depot. Purchase at least three of each of the following.

• 1/4-20 Pan Head Machine Screw, Stainless Steel
• 1/4-20 Lock Nuts, Nylon Insert, Stainless Steel
• Rubber Grommet, 9/16 OD x 1/4 ID
• 1/4 flat washer, Stainless Steel for use inside the door to protect the grommet from damage when the nut is tightended.

The Stainless Steel parts will resist rust as the inside of the door will get wet and the nylon locking nut will not loosen up on you. 12) to reattach the door, I made sure there were at least a couple of working clips on each side of the door and just pushed it back on. MAKE SURE TO RECONNECT AND TEST THE SWITCH AND HANDLE before pushing it all the way in. 13) replace the 2 screws and thats it.