1997 E-320. Why doesn't it start?

Physically removing a piece of an ignition key from the tumbler is practically impossible. The tumbler is filled with spring loaded tabs which raise and lower against EVERY notch on a key. That resistance will fight your every motion as you try to back the key remnant out. As one tab releases, the next in line raises into the vacancy just created. GM, even with the "fob"/ chip installed in most of their keys, also put greater anti-theft detail into their ignition tumblers. IF this is an ignition lock that has a chip sensor, the practical repair is a complete key/tumbler replacement. This isn't a DIY repair. It will involve removing the steering wheel and column covers, air bag, AND re-coding the vehicle computer to accept and recognize the new key/chip code. The re-coding CAN be done at home. Immediately after the new tumbler is installed, leaving the ignition in the "run" position for 1 hour, will re-code the antitheft in the computer.

You need to replace the ignition tumbler, which is the piece the key goes in. You have to remove the steering wheel, lock plate, turn signal switch, and the key in buzzer contact. This contact piece will be very difficult to remove because the key actually gets in the way internally. This piece is a yellowish square plastic piece with two copper contact straps protruding from it. Beneath this piece is a t20 torx screw/pin. Remove this screw/pin and the tumbler slides right out. Install in reverse order.

It sounds like one or more pins in the lock tumbler portion of your ignition switch has slipped out of position and jammed the cylinder so that you can't remove your key. These pins, which are actually shaped more like thin washers, are made of soft brass and gradually wear over time. Especially if you or another driver of the car had your ignition key on a keychain with a bunch of other keys, the weight of that key ring will also push and pull on these pins over time, increasing the odds that one of them will go out of alignment and cause this kind of a problem. That's why you'll see car enthusiasts have a single ignition key on a keychain or have it be detachable from the rest of their keys--it saves a lot of wear and tear on the ignition switch.


To fix this problem, you'll need to remove the lock tumbler portion of the ignition switch and take it to a locksmith to have it rebuilt. A locksmith will take out the old washers and springs and replace them with exact new replacements. Assuming the lock tumbler isn't cracked (they almost never are), you'll end up with a switch that works like new. This process is also usually much cheaper than ordering a new ignition switch, and it also re-uses your existing keys. Of course, a locksmith can also replace the washers in a brand new ignition switch to match your existing keys.


Removing the lock cylinder could be a bit of a problem if you can't wiggle the ignition switch at all. However, don't try to force the cylinder back into the "off and take the key out" position if the switch is otherwise rotating freely. If you take the key out at this point, there's a good chance you'll never get it back in again. On GM cars of this vintage, there's usually a little hole somewhere on the bottom of the ignition switch. Normally, you push up into this hole with a very stiff wire while turning the key to the "on" position. This will release the lock tumbler, and you'll be able to pull it out of the steering column. Note that this only pulls out the lock tumbler; the actual ignition switch will still be left in place, permitting you to start the car with, say, a screwdriver instead of a key.


It doesn't sound like you have this problem, but you may have trouble pulling the lock cylinder if you can't rotate it enough to use the proper tumbler removal procedure. If that's the case, the best thing to do might be to call in a locksmith to do this for you. It will cost you a bit more for them to work on your car instead of just on your tumbler, but they have additional experience that helps them know how much force they can apply to a stubborn lock without, say, bending or breaking off the key (and even more expensive scenario for you). Plus, if they screw up, they get to buy you a new ignition switch, so that expense isn't coming out of your pocket. If you can still start your car, you can save locksmith house call charges by driving to their place of business and parking in front of their store. I have had to do that, and I saved $75 in locksmith charges off the bat by driving my car to the guy's shop instead of having him come out to me.

Good luck!

it not broke just not attached to the new ignition must line up with the hole

It sounds like the classic "switch needs replacing". You only need the tumbler replaced. Before installing the new tumbler take it and your door key to your local locksmith and they can key the new tumbler to work with the old key. This saves you from have to have two different keys.

The tumblers in the ignition lock may be seized, try cleaning it out first with a small spray of WD40 and try the spare ignition keys. The keys it self may be too worn down for the tumblers in the lock and if you have lots of other keys on your key chains, this will promote the lock to wear out quicker. Good luck and hope this helps and try turning the steering where back and forth as you try to turn the ignition key.

Might want to remove the tumbler, and check it for obstructions, or dirt in the grease.

One quick test for this would be :

Start the truck as normal. Check the radio, if it is off, slightly turn the key backwards towards the off position, only moving the key 1 or 2 mm. It could be the key is not returning from the start position correctly.

To check the tumbler :
Look on the bottom of the steering wheel cover. There should be 4 holes, but only 3 screws. The empty hole should be by the ignition switch.

1 Insert the ignition key and turn to the RUN position.

2 Insert a punch in the access hole of the steering column and press the release tab while pulling out the ignition switch lock cylinder.

Once you have it out, you should be able to look inside the tumbler path, to see if there are any obstructions, or grease & dirt build up.
This is also the same way to remove the key in ignition warning chime. It should be a tab on the end of the tumbler ( mine was broken, left in the tumbler path )
Pry the clip down, and push the tab off the rear of the ignition switch lock.

Putting it back is a case of pushing the same punch in the hole, insert the switch lock cylinder back in, release the punch, and cycle the key to the off position.

Yes it does sound to me like the key is the problem.
the only other thing for a steering locking up would be the steering lock silenoid but that is activated by the brake pedal and the key has to be turned
if this is the orginal key it could be something else because the key and the tumblers inside the ingintion would wear down the same time together,but is the is a replacement key or back-up it will be the key because the tumblers would have been worn done by a different key.
try wiggling the key as you turn maybe you can get it to turn.
You will likely have to replace the ignition and key together.

have you replaced the starter?

Place key in ign. lock n tumbler and turn to "on" position. Under the column you'll see a small hole to put a small screwdriver or rod into and press it in. While you're pressing it, pull the lock n tumbler out. Installation is the reverse of removal but without the use of the rod. Just push the lock n tumbler in the hole and turn key to lock position and pull key out.