What is the part I'm looking at?

No, Paul, those are three different areas, or things. The tie rods connect to the wheel spindle that the tire is mounted on. That is for steering. The link rods connect the sway bar to each side of the front end- these are high wear items, often replaced.

The third: now the "strut tops" being noisy, this should be of concern to you, insofar as what are they doing about that? Ask them if that means replacing worn struts (quite an added expense), or checking the security of the top mounting-like loose bolts or nuts. I would want specifics on what exactly they mean. The strut tops are where the two front struts mount on the car frame, and usually found under the hood on each side, like 3 nuts holding the top of the strut, and the bottom of the strut is attached to the wheel spindle or wheel knuckle, same thing. So the strut at the wheel, moving up and down, strut absorbs the shock and diminishes it by a solid mounting to the frame- the strut tops. Hope this helps you understand a bit.

The control arm will move some, the bushings are rubber. Made to do that so the ride isn't like being in a tank. The rack only has one bushing, on the passenger side. If your talking about the bar behind the rack. It is called a sway bay. It has two frame bushings. If the sway bar is moving up and down 1/2 inch, the bushing are bad. There should be some movement, but 1/2 inch is excessive. Again they are rubber. Any thing rubber is going to have movement. But should be sloppy.

About 1" bar runs from side to side behind/near steering rack to each side, held on with "U" shaped brackets and rubber bushings. Rear runs from frame rail to frame rail and attaches to axle housing with same type of bracket and rubber bushings. Similar to "U" shape bending in a few places, and connected by links/struts at ends.

the sway bar is a bar that runs acrossed the front of the van from strut to strut. It is bolted to the cradel and then has links that run from the bar to the strut to increase stability. The sway bar bushings are rubber mounts that hold the bar down to the cradel. The bar runs though the mounts one each side where the bar and the cradel meet. If they are wore out you will normally hear a clucking noise from the front end when you hit bumps. To remove and replace them there is two bolts that hold a steel cap on top of them on each side. Remove the cap from both sides then the rubber mounts will have a split in them so you can get them off the bar. To install them is just the reverse of the removal. Good luck! 4 thumbs up is appeciated if this helps.

On 1991-97 models, the system pressure regulator is mounted on the end of the fuel rail that feeds the injectors. the Fuel Filter is under hood, driver side, rear side of strut tower, mounted on side of frame rail in fuel line.

For 1998-2002, all models have a new Returnless fuel system, which makes the pressure regulator an integral component of the fuel filter, which is mounted below the vehicle near the fuel tank.

Check this GUDE as reference.

Good luck.

No, it isn't...
You need:
-20" breaker bar
-torque wrench
-Liquid wrench (or WD-40 if you don't have any)
-Jack and stands
-sockets to fit all of the connections

1. Remove the back seat:
Bottom cushion comes out by pushing it rearwards and lifting, undo the 2 seatbelt bolts and 2 push nuts and remove the back cushion

2. Jack and support the frame of the car
3. Remove the wheels
4. Place a jack under the control arm where the spring connects to it and put a little tension on the spring. (this is so that when you unbolt the strut the control arm won't come crashing down)
5. Remove the air tube by rotating the spring clip 90 degrees and pulling on the tube at the connector.
5. Remove the lower strut bolts. (Exprerience shows me that removing the lower one first will save you lots of agony...)
6. Remove the two strut mounting bolts that are behind the back seat cushion.
7. Compress the strut and remove from the vehicle.
8. Installation is opposite of the removal. Remember to use a new mount if the one you are removing is worn. I recommend Quick-strut 171798. Good Luck!

P.S. Torque Specs are:
Lower Strut bolts- 140 ft/lbs
Upper strut bolts- 30 ft/lbs
Mount to strut bolt - 70ft/lbs

See if you can bounce car and replicate the noise. If you can, you should be able to find it, and put your hand on it. Stabilizer bushing are a place to look, both at the lower a arm and on the frame. If you narrow it down to the strut, it will need to be replaced. The front trans mount also goes bad, try putting it in drive with your foot on the brake and give it some gas and see if the engine moves an excessive amount.

filter is mounted on right side next to front pivot of trailing arm(behind tank) if not try here filter is under the car on the frame rail in front of the right rear tire

Here is a link describing your strut replacement. Autozone also has free tool rental for the strut spring compressor if you need it. Thank you, and don't forget to vote. http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c152800681ba

Have a look on passenger side under hood near strut/shock mount