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HESTER HASTHIBEER Posted on Jul 05, 2014
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How to set timing chain on a 1997 audi a4 1.8 non turbo

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  • Audi Master 20,706 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 07, 2014
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Joined: Apr 06, 2013
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SET?
is this a ground zero, never looked question
our 1.8 has a belt and chain.
called the AEB engine. 20 valves.... or is it the 16valve>?

1.8 R4 20vT

ours is the DOHC head,
there are 47 steps. in the FSM.
and photos , (log in to alldata.com and look?)

the engine as s chain at the rear of the 2 cams, linking them.
and a front drive belt all must be timed by the book.
the first, fact to discover, is if it is and INTERFERENCE engine.
Im told it IS>!
if yes, do not crank engine over, util you are 3 times sure of timing
or boom, kiss off valves, or more..... damage has no limits.
the book tells you to match mark, the rear chain sprockets.
ill skip this, you implied front of engine belt.
there are 2 chapters one for rear chain
and one for belt.
here is the belt side.

quote. removal.
  1. Note the radio security code and disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Place the (hood) lock carrier in the service position. For additional information, please refer to the following topic(s): Body And Trim, Service Position, Front Bumper, Hood Lock Carrier.
  3. Remove the engine accessory drive belts. For additional information, please refer to the following topic(s): General Information And Maintenance, Routing Maintenance And Tune-up.
  4. Using a 5 x 60mm bolt, secure the viscous fan pulley. Using a hex wrench, remove the viscous fan-to-pulley bolts. Remove the viscous fan assembly.
  5. Turn the engine by hand to Top Dead Center (TDC) on the firing stroke for cylinder No. 1.
  6. Remove the upper timing belt cover.
usually a dumb idea this.... but is stated.
If reusing the timing belt, mark its rotational direction so it may be installed in its original position.
  1. Using the center bolt, rotate the crankshaft in the direction of engine rotation to position the No. 1 cylinder at Top Dead Center (TDC) of its compression stroke.
  2. Remove the damper pulley-to-crankshaft bolts and the damper.
  3. Remove the lower timing belt cover.
  4. Using a Torx Wrench T45, or equivalent, loosen the timing belt tensioner, push the tensioner downward and remove the timing belt.

SEE 5 MISSING PHOTOS THEN,.
iNSTALL
  1. Align the camshaft sprocket timing mark with the cylinder head cover mark.
  2. Install the timing belt on the crankshaft sprocket with the arrow facing the rotational direction.
  3. Install the lower timing belt cover.
  4. Using a bolt, secure the damper/belt pulley on the crankshaft.
  5. Align the crankshaft damper/belt pulley with the housing timing mark so that the No. 1 cylinder is at TDC of its compression stroke.
  6. Install the timing belt on the camshaft sprocket and belt tensioner.
  7. Using a 2-pin Spanner Matra Tool No. V159 Wrench, or equivalent, lift (turn clockwise) the timing belt tensioner cylinder No. 1 until it is fully extended and tensioner cylinder No. 2 is raised approx. 1mm (3/8 inch); then, hand-tighten the mounting bolt.
  8. Rotate the crankshaft 2 complete rotation in the running direction.
  9. Inspect area 'A' for proper alignment with the upper edge of piston No. 2 and adjust if necessary.
  10. Area 'A' - adjustment OK
  11. Area 'B' - wear limit
  12. Area 'C' - re-adjust and check belt drive including tensioner for wear.
details, (devil?)
If the piston edge is located in area 'A', measurement 'D' is 25-29mm (31/32-1 1/8 inches).
  1. After adjustment has been verified, secure the tensioner with a 2-pin Spanner Matra Tool No. V159 Wrench, or equivalent, and tighten the mounting bolt.
  2. Complete the damper to crankshaft installation.
  3. Using the center bolt, rotate the crankshaft 2 rotations in the direction of engine rotation until the camshaft and crankshaft marks align with their respective reference points.
  4. Install the upper timing belt cover.
  5. Install the drive belts.
  6. The balance of assembly is in reverse order of removal.
  7. Install the negative battery cable last.
  8. Test drive the vehicle.

login to alldata.com and just look, its $15 bucks.
the cost is about 1/10 of 1hour shop labor charges, stateside,
free IMO..
PS : a savvy mech will not do step 8 ,until he:
1: spins engine over by hands sparks out, to feel if the valves hit the pistons, ( a DUH factor if ever. there was)
and TRIPLE checking. all timing marks again before close up.

there is no forgiveness, like on free runners. not at all.

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