Wont crank alarm set is on,on the dash

Sounds strange that "no crank" after just changing EGR valve...go back to basics...check the battery post connections, all of your lights can still work with a dirty connection...the starter requires a lot more juice to crank...Hope this helps.

Turn the headlights on and watch them while the key is turned to start. If the lights go out, one of your cables or connections at battery or starter is not good. If lights dim a lot but stay on, possibly a bad starter, it needs testing. If lights aren't affected by cranking position, turn lights off, pull the small wire off the starter solenoid, hook up a test light to ground and to the solenoid wire. Light should come on when key is held in crank. If it does, likely a bad starter solenoid. If no light, then the start circuit from ignition switch to starter solenoid is not working. Check for power out of ignition switch on the start wire with key in crank, to begin with. If powered, switch is good, need to check if neutral safety switch is good, and then check or swap in a new starter relay.
Post back with any results.
Good luck.

How about the battery

You do hear a faint ticking
That is the starter solenoid
The solenoids contacts could be
burnt,even though you had the starter
tested.

Make sure that BOTH ends of the battery
cables are CLEAN & TIGHT

This may sound a bit simple but check the starter solenoid function by running an external wire to the thin wire terminal from the positive post on the battery.

If the starter does nothing then the starter is bad.

What your describing is a typical solenoid / starter problem. Given the car is now 10 year old, it is quite possible that either the solenoid or starter has failed.

Thanks for using FixYa!

Kelly

You need a wiring diagram before you start and get out your meter. How did you check out the relays? Remove them,power up the coils and read OHM's across all contacts or use the buzzer on the meter? You missed one The fact the solenoid is good doesn't mean the contacts inside aren't burnt and not applying current to the starter motor. We over look the easy stuff most of the time. Did you do a voltage drop test on the starter while trying to crank? A new solenoid may be all you need.

Check the transmission neutral start inhibit switch is not the cause of your problem. (try both 'P' to 'N' positions).
If the headlights work ok there should be enough power in the battery to at least make a solenoid type noise when start is attempted.
Check the battery terminals are clean and firmly attached to the battery,
Check battery is properly grounded to the chassis and motor,
Check that +12v is available at the starter motor engage solenoid when the ignition switch is held in the 'start' position - check any start slave relay operation.
If all above is OK, you may have a faulty starter motor.

pin 86 and pin 30 at the relay should have power then your right about ground supplied from the ecu and the other goes to the starter solenoid check for battery voltage on those 2 pins 86 and 30 one fuse is under the hood and the other is under the dash.

this may be a ignition switch see if the little wire going to the solenoid gets power when ignition switch is tried

check for power at the starter and starter solenoid while someone holds the key to crank if it has enough voltage the starter is bad but make sure all connections for the battery and starter are good before replacing starter

Check under hood in box marked fuses & relay, on drivers side and look under cover of it for I.D.