My 2008 Mercury Mountaineer occasionally thumps when trying to start. It's like there is play in the drivetrain and the first second of accelerating takes the play out, the truck thumps forward then it drives like nothing is wrong. It doesn't do this all the time, happens more often in when backing up
This could be caused by the gear on the starter being worn or one or more missing gear teeth on the flywheel. The clunking is the gear on the starter or that gear slipping past the missing gear teeth on the flywheel. Inspect the drive gear on the starter. If this is not a problem try slowly turning the engine while observing the flywheel through the inspection window.
Sounds like one or both of your universal joins is going bad... Is your mountaineer a 4wd, front wheel drive or rear wheel drive?
SOURCE: 2001 Mercury Mountaineer won't start
Have a load test done on the battery. If it checks out good, take a voltmeter to the battery and have an assistant rotate the engine. If you see more than a 2 volt drop when the car is being started, the starter is heading south.
SOURCE: 2003 mercury mountaineer lose power when
Hi, maybe there's a problem in your starter or your battery consume more electricity.
NephetZ
SOURCE: I have a 2004 Mercury Mountaineer. Sometimes when
you probably should change the transmission fluid and filter with that many miles on it.
SOURCE: overheating while driving my 2006 mercury
If you are losing coolant but not leaking out, there are 2 other possibilities. Does it go intop the oilpan? Easy to verify by looking at dipstick. If no, then it is probably getting into the cylinders and going out the exhaust. Is the exhaust particularly moist? Causes for this would be a blown head gasket or cracked head. If you have more questions, please reply.
SOURCE: I am driving down the
Now you have to stop using it,sorry
You have two main Fail Safes
One is overheating
Yours is IGNITION COIL MISFIRES
Without getting in a long technical story
the individual coils you have COP Ignition System,
either slowly fail and set no light,or set a code
In your case it doesn't matter because the codes won't help much
You most likely have a really bad ignition coil
It does not ground out as it should in the PCM (computer)
That spike comes back on the TPS Sensor (throttle position)
and then you lose the TPS normal Data that is the result
of where you push on the gas pedal
At that point there is no way to adjust fuel injector pulse,so
it starts killing cylinders and eventually goes into ETC Fail-Safe
Your Done-- Also there may not be many professionals that
will believe me. Been there done that.
Ideally a shop that actually uses an oscilloscope can solve
which coil is bad
You can buy 1 coil for $60.00 & walk it from one cyl
to the next and after a week fix it for $60.00
I will tell you, people have spent $3000.00 at dealers
& got zip.
In the event my story if off,
your next problem would be the
TACM (throttle actuator control motor )
That will be your codes. Do Not let the codes
guide you or your repair shop. The throttle body
is $700.00. If you do need one, you better be installing
your self.
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