I own a 2002 Chevy Suburban 1500. A couple of months ago I had to have the rear axle differential replaced. Soon after getting my truck back, I noticed my brakes weren't functioning as they should. I was told to check the brake fluid and I found the reservoir to be very low. I was told I must have a leak and to monitor it. The day after topping it off, it was low again, pretty much confirming the leak. I've been driving that way, filling the brake fluid as much as possible. I know I should've taken it in ASAP, but that differential job set me back. Well, this past week I drove out an hour from home and as soon as I got off the highway and onto rural roads, the truck started making a sort of howling or roaring noise. It only sounded when I pressed the gas to accelerate. Releasing the gas made the noise stop. Over the course of the week, it has gotten louder and worse. Although it still only does it while accelerating, when releasing the gas pedal, the howling lingers a few seconds longer before going quiet. There is no noise while truck is idle and I rev up the gas. Both ABS and Brake lights on dash are on. Could something have gone wrong when the rear end was replaced to cause this issue now (or even the brake leak)? Could it be directly linked to the all-but-officially-confirmed brake leak? Thanks in advance.
The brake leak could be as simple as the person that replaced the differential in your vehicle left a brake line fitting loose. As for the noise, was this a new rebuild differential or a junk yard one? If you have a bearing going in the differential it will start making noise under accelerate and it will go away under deceleration, but it will get noisier as the bearing gets worse and be there all the time. I hope this helps.
Hello I don't know exactly where you live however, I'd say the loud " roaring noise is possibly the clutch fan. The reason why they are so loud and make the roaring sound is because as you accelerate the fan blades spread outward but are under resistance .It's activated by ambient engine temp. They are very noisy when engaged and tend to work more on rural roads, stop and go and when A/C is being used. etc. The brake light is on because the fluid is below the fluid level sensor basically telling you to check and or add brake fluid. In addition the ABS light has came on because it had ran low on brake fluid sending a warning signal to the computer from the ABS brake control module. The best thing to do is to keep up on the fluid level find that leak and repair it.
SOURCE: 2001 Chevrolet Cavalier front End Roar
You must replace wheel bearings in pairs to avoid loading the old bearing and, in time ruining your new bearing hub it is possible that you have already damaged the new hub
SOURCE: Brake Pedal goes to the floor in my 1990 Chevy C1500 Scottsdale
do you have a self bleeder kit? first off, you have to bleed the master cyl back into its self and the combination valve before you go to the wheels. when you do that, I think you will find that you have air in the lines. disconnect both brake lines from the master cyl and put the bleeder kit fittings on the master cyl, then put the rubber tubing with the kit on the fittings and submerge it in the brake reservoir. make sure its full. then pump the pedal until you get a hard pedal. if that is the case, reconnect the lines to the master, then have an assistant pump up the brake pedal with the engine off, and bleed the combination valve which should be connected to the master by steel tubing. pump it up, then hold it down, and crack the fittings loose, one at a time until the pedal goes about half way down, but do not release the brake pedal until the line is tight again, otherwise you will **** air in the lines. after you do all that, go to the farthest caliper or wheel cylynder from the master and bleed that with the same technique,and dont release the pedal until you close the bleeder screw. unless you have a major prob, this will work.
SOURCE: Hi, 1996 Chev SUburban 1500,
where did you go? if you went through really high altitudes the oxygen levels change and could have fouled your plugs. sometimes the auto makers tune the vehicles different in different geographical locations.
SOURCE: 2006 chevy impala, makes a squealing noise when
If you have rear disc brakes, check the calipers to ensure they are tight. If you have rear drum brakes, make sure a shoe isn't dragging. Also check the rear wheel bearings by raising the car and rocking the wheel gently back and forth. If there's a lot of play the bearing may be bad.
SOURCE: 6 months ago, replaced head
CHECK TURN SIGNAL FUSE.IT COULD BE BLOWED OR YOU HAVE FAULTY TURN SIGNAL SWITCH.BECAUSE BACK LIGHTS AND TAIL LIGHTS SHARE SAME CIRCUIT WITH TURN SIGNAL SWITCH.
Testimonial: "It is the turn signal switch that is causing problems. I jiggled it and things worked for a bit, but then not. (after an hr chkking fuses, bulbs...)"
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Thanks for your response. Yes, as it turns out, the mechanic (if that's what you would call him after the job he did on my truck) left a brake l.ine loose AND he also failed to put the oil cap/plug back in causing the oil to eventually run out and I was running it dry!! Needless to say, that is what caused it to mess up again.
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