How to remove primary turbo

take it to a competant mechanic. If you are on here asking about an engine swap, you probably do not have the ability to perform a complete swap.

i have similar problem with my 1999 b4 twin turbo auto. it happened after changing the knock sensor. other than this jerking the car gains power after and runs very well. but the jerking is annoying. No warning signs in my car dash though it burns well

a common part over looked when a turbo is bad the drain tube gets plugged and oil cant drain

i would check the idle air control solenoid first. simply unplug it then remove the unit and inspect the air passage for any blockage and carbon buildup. Clean it if its dirty then test it out. If the IAC is good then you should look at the throttle position sensor.

hi im presuming your old car is non turbo if so you will have to change a lot of parts over to make it work, you will have to replace entire engine loom, the ecu will need changed over then the fuel pump and all of the fuel lines will need to be replaced with the bigger turbo model ones to keep up also the trans will bolt strait up but will be the major weak point so swap over if possible.

hi you need a flat blade screwdriver to undo the hoseclamps, pliers to remove the clamps, and a 14mm socket or spanner to undo the 4 turbo bolts on the exaust, and 3 on the bottom exaust flange

sounds like a blown engine, you might be able to locate a used engine and get it installed, rebuilding that engine is going to be expensive. If you just replace the turbo, you would probably just be wasting your money since the engine was run with no oil.

Your model and year has OBDII. I would not suggest shorting any wires. It will not flash codes. Most Auto parts stores will test it for free. Good luck and have a great day.

Yes they will bolt in. Make sure you have the sensors matched. You might have to do some playing with the computer to make it all work properly. Good luck and have a great day.

The second turbo simply follows the first when the system activates it by bringing it in parallel with the first. The first turbo is only designed for a 1200cc motor so it can not deliver enough compressed air at revs for a bigger motor so they arrange to bring in a second turbo of the same size when the first one runs out of puff.
The first turbo is a semi-mechanical device. The ecm raises the boost level at which it operates but it should be producing some boost regardless.
So concentrate on the first turbo.
Isolate it from the ecm control system
(There is a misleading tip on youtube involving pulling hoses but it is misguided, the comment is ignorant, and I do not recommend it)
Instead, as per the manual, on the first turbo remove the system pressure lines from exhaust and wastegate. Loop a short piece of vacuum hose from the primary turbo output to its own wastegate.
Blank off the system hoses you disconnected. Fit a boost gauge, drive it and observe the boost gauge readings (manifold pressure). If the primary turbo is OK this will make it operate at a lower boost level (5-7psi ?) than the system control (10-17psi) but it will be a purely mechanical operation which will isolate where the fault is.
If there is no boost and the pressure stays zero down then the turbo is not working. Check for the wastegate being stuck or maladjusted. If that is working then you bave a faulty turbo for whatever reason. Maybe there is a loose bolt stuck in it from the engine rebuild?

If the turbo is working OK then it points to an electrical issue with the the boost control solenoid which is inside the wing near the vacuum tank beside the battery compartment. The control voltage from the ecm usually pulses it on/off at a fast rate to give a measured control and it may be stuck. Maybe it is the ecm or maybe the valve. But before you go dig it out, first check the pressure lines such as 10 and 23 are connected or not reversed at their connectors where they go through the wing (just behind the battery)
Good luck