Coolent is not going through hose to heater core on a 2001 325xi bmw

Could be low on antifreeze. The heater core is the highest spot in the cooling system and it may develop an air pocket. Another possibility is the thermostat is stuck partially open and doesn't let the engine warm correctly, watch your temp gauge on the dash and see if it comes up to the middle like it should while idling. If it doesn't, it may need replacement.

Check you other question. I just posted this.

Make sure the coolant level is full in the reservoir.

If the coolant level is good feel the hoses that go to the heater core back by the firewall. If one is cold and one is hot that the heater core is plugged. I have had fairly good success back flushing the heater cores and getting them to work. If back flushing does not work than the heater core will need to be replaced. The entire dash will need to be removed to do this.

If both the hoses are hot than it may be the blend door actuator. You should hear a distinct difference in the air flow from the vents by moving the heat control from full hot to full cold.

The last thing is the t-stat could be stuck open. If this where the case than the temp gauge will also be reading low.

Check those out and let me know what you find.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

Make sure the coolant level is full in the reservoir.

If the coolant level is good feel the hoses that go to the heater core back by the firewall. If one is cold and one is hot that the heater core is plugged. I have had fairly good success back flushing the heater cores and getting them to work. If back flushing does not work than the heater core will need to be replaced. The entire dash will need to be removed to do this.

If both the hoses are hot than it may be the blend door actuator. You should hear a distinct difference in the air flow from the vents by moving the heat control from full hot to full cold.

The last thing is the t-stat could be stuck open. If this where the case than the temp gauge will also be reading low.

Check those out and let me know what you find.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

replace the thermostant again this time get a hotter temp thermostant and buy it from the dealer, the other thing is that these cars are known for the temp sensors being bad this would give you the false reading on the gauge but would not affect the heat, if its taaking a long time then i would replace the stant and this time or before replacing the stant i want you to flush out the heater core, remove the hoses from the heatercore and use a water hose to flush water through the heater core, a plugged core will not throw heat or will start to allow water to flow when it gets good and hot to flow through the retricted core due to rust and crud, try the flush first and then try a new temp sensor if the flush helps the heat, hope this is helpful good luck.

in the case of no heat and slight smell of antifreeze i would back flush the heater core and also check the carpet around the heater vents under the dash if the heater core is leaking the carpet may be wet. find the 2 hoses going to the firewall if you start the motor and let it warm up with the heater on 1 should be hot and one should be cold disconnect them and use a garden hose to flush water in the hose thats cold.

your heater core may be clogged up. The temp of the inlet hose should be about the same as the outlet hose-under the hood. If one is signifcantly more hot then suspect a clogged heater core. You can try to back flush the heater core. Remove the heater hoses at the engine side- not the heater core side because the hose fittings are fragile. You want to blow through the hose that was cooler to the touch with light compressed air or water pressure. be sure to bleed air out of system. If water flowed freely through the heater core then you may have an issue with the blend door on your heater box, or heater control. Do not blow up the heater core! keep pressure below the psi rating of the radiator cap.

The slow acting of the temp gauge may indicate air in the cooling system. run the engine, heater on, with the radiator cap off to vent the system, doing this on an upsloped driveway will aid in venting the air.

THERE IS NO HEATER CONTROL VALVE ON THE WATER HOSES. NEW HEATER CORE. INLET LINE right before heater core hot, outlet after core look warm. Burped cooling system 5 times with engine at operating temp. Installed homade burp VALVE right after heater core outlet(high part of hose). Still no heat. Removed water pump, impeller still in good shape not stripped off shaft. Removed heater core hoses flushed water thrue the connections on the block to the water pump INLET and outlet. flushed water thrue heater core and hoses. Going to put it back togeter today. Used known good gauge to check water temp for operating temp in test. 195 f

heater core is pluged have it flushed and it will work good after that.

It sounds like the heater coil needs flushing out or replacing or the heater valve. Look on the engine firewall and make sure the heater valve is opening. If not open it manually and check the heat level. If that produced heat check the condition of the heater vale cable (or vaccum hose).

These Tauruses had a problem with the heater cores plugging up, blowing out the head gaskets and no heat issues. Ford issued a TSB#98B26 (Tech Service Bulletin) to modify water pump and install a heater hose bypass tube. I would start by completely flushing the system with a good flush. Then reverse flushing the heater core. Refill the system and add a good additive. Also you can install the heater bypass tube as described in the TSB. The last one I did ran around $90 and 2 hours labor. Hope this helps you out.......