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Need to see if you have spark at the spark plugs. Then check fuel pressure at the engine. Do you hear the fuel pump run a few seconds when turn the key on (without cranking)? If you don't hear ir running, could be pump, relay, fuse.

It sounds like you did run it low on fuel one too many times and damaged the fuel pump. The restricted fuel filter was also most likely causal to its failure...if indeed that's the reason it wont start. You or a mechanic need to perform a fuel pressure test and compare the readings with the factory specification. Also check for rapid pressure drop with key off after pressurizing. And for heaven's sake stop throwing unnecessary parts and money at it! Question what's the probability that all those parts failed simultaneously? You would have paid less to have it professionally diagnosed...

The best approach to diagnose this problem is to troubleshoot first to determine the cause, then replace the failed parts. If you suspect fuel flow, test the fuel pressure in the system. Hopefully you can test pressure at the injectors just to see if you are getting fuel to the engine. If fuel pressure is low, then test pressure closest to the fuel pump. Keep checking at various points in the system until you find the place between where pressure is good and then bad. If it's bad right out of the pump, then there's your problem. If fuel pressure is good to the engine, it could still be an the fuel injectors (if it's a fuel flow problem). If it's no spark, that should be fairly easy to check. Connect a spark tester between a plug and plug wire and see if you have spark (nice white spark, yellow is a weak spark ..not usually good). If spark is not present, or weak, than you'll have to look at the ignition system. You've already replaced a lot of parts, but it doesn't mean there isn't a broken, burnt, or shorted wire in the system. Check for 12v at the coil with the ignition key turned on. If 12v is there than troubleshoot to the coil/distributor than towards the spark plugs (obviously the problem is not likely to be in the parts you just replaced), but just the same, test the system as a whole. One thing could cause another to fail, even if it's a new part. If there is NOT 12v at the coil, then troubleshoot why there is not 12v at the coil back through relays, fuses, etc to find why 12v is missing. A Haynes manual with wiring diagrams might be helpful for troubleshooting the electrical stuff. Best of luck resloving this problem.