Temperature needle jumps.

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Right, plates of full depth and weight ... Loose hold-downs - bouncing arounddamages a battery several ways ... Excessive loads - using the starter to move thecar should be only a ... ask for a temperature-corrected hydrometer reading, which should be 1.260 specific gravity. ... All this is dependent on the individual car.

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temp gauge bouncing around before going to center? ' Yahoo Answershttps://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid...Sep 28, 2013 - I called my mom and we switched cars and she didn't see anything ... Best Answer: If the temp gauge is literally "bouncing around" this is more ...Why is my temperature gauge jumping?Jan 1, 2013Temperature gauge bouncing.?Dec 18, 2008What does it mean, when my coolant temp needle jumps up and ...Oct 3, 2008My car temperature gauge keeps bouncing around from cool to red ...Dec 12, 2006More results from answers.yahoo.comTemperature Gauge Jumping Around an

Sounds like the sending unit has an intermittent short to ground. Unhook the the wire from the sending unit, and see if the needle stops jumping around. If it quits jumping around, replace the sending unit. If it still jumps around, you have a bare spot somewhere on the wire and it is hitting ground which will cause the needle to jump. Cut out the bad part of the wire and splice in a new section. That should fix it.

Vehicle temperature gauges (temp gauge) read the temperature of the liquid in cooling system. From what I understand, the temp gauge jumping around has since gone away after you placed water into the radiator. It is very possible that water converted into steam was trapped in the cooling system and reached the temp sensor in your engine. The vehicle moving caused this steam to shift around reflecting rapid changes in temperature on the sensor, causing the needle to jump around on your console.
Hope this helps.

Vss (vehicle speed sensor) could be bad

Check intake air temperature sensor or MAF sensor. Also check MAP sensor and replace if necessary.

Generally... There is ON/OFF - SET - ACCELERATE/RESUME, COAST/DECELERATE. Cruise is available at speeds above 35mph or so. Sometimes there is no main on/off. Cruise on a turn signal stem has a button that pushes in on the end, push when at desired speed. resume/accelerate slides to right, is spring loaded and return left when released. the same lever when slid left is coast/decelerate. Momentarily sliding accelerate and releasing increases crusing speed by a couple mph. If brakes are used cruise disengages, sliding resume returns you to cruise speed after braking. Coast/decelerate disengages cruise, when at desired lower speed hit set. On some, hitting set not needed, when coast is released speed is maintained. Variations may be up/ down instead or may be steering wheel face mounted. Please rate answer. Duct tape is like the force, it has a dark side.. a light side.. and holds the universe together!

It could be your transmission trying to find the right gear it will jump around on diffrent road surfaces and going up hills/down hills. It is usaully noticable on cruise because it is at a constant speed and your thinking why would it need to shift. Sometimes it doesnt even really shift the gear its so inbetween it just jumps back really fast.

if i remember correctly ,, the computer drops a few cylinders while cruising to save fuel and this turns off when you step on the gas again ,, so there may be nothing wrong with your truck

The cruise control enables you to set the car speed mainly on motorways at a constant speed enabling you to take your foot off the gas pedal.It disengages as soon as you touch your brakes. It is activated/deactivated by the paddle switch on you steering wheel.

It sounds to me like you're low on coolant. When you checked the coolant level, did you actually open the radiator cap and make sure the radiator is full? The plastic tank you generally add coolant too is actually an 'overflow' or 'reserve' tank. There is a hose that runs from that tank to the top of the radiator so if the radiator gets low on coolant, more coolant -should- run in from the overflow tank. However in practice this does not always work. I have a Jeep that leaks coolant and experiences this exact same problem. Coolant will not run from the reserve tank into the radiator because the hose is plugged up, and whenever the radiator gets low on coolant the temp gauge will go real high and then drop, and the heater doesn't work well. This is because the cooling system of your car is supposed to be a closed system, full of coolant and no air. When coolant leaks out, the space it used to occupy is now occupied by air, which does not transfer heat well. When 'air' is passing through your cooling system, no heat can be transferred from your engine to the heater and radiator, resulting in a hot engine and no heat at the heater. Then when a pocket of water passes through the system, the temperature gauge quickly falls as the water absorbs the heat from the engine. The hot water that cools the engine is where the heater gets it's heat from as well, so when water passes through the heater core, the heater works, but when it's filled with air, it doesn't.