2005 ford escape assembly diagram for the front axle

Use no more than 15 to 20 ft. lbs. of torque. Rotate the wheel to make sure the bearings are seated. The adjustment nut is then loosened 1/6 to 1/4 turn, and locked in place with a new cotter pin. As a rule, endplay should be about 0.001 to 0.005 inches.

How to Replace a CV Axle on a Ford Escape / Mazda ...

? 9:41
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_JxagNLBlQ4
Aug 29, 2013 - Uploaded by klowny1969
Axle nut should be torqued to spec..in the ford escape its around 205-220 lbs ft How To Change An Axle On A Front Wheel Drive Car ! SUBSCRIBE ! ... How to Replace a Front Axle Half Shaft - Duration: 14:37. ... Alternator replacement 2005 2006 Ford Escape 3.0L DOHC All Wheel Drive - Duration: 13:15.

Front axle replacement Ford Escape 2003 Right front CV ...

? 8:46
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JQK8SPj6Qsk
Mar 29, 2014 - Uploaded by Fixing cars and stuff
Front axle replacement Ford Escape 2003 Right front CV axle install remove replace This Channel provides ...

I assume your referring to a front or rear drive axle

You will have to remove the axle & replace them

There may be ways to stake it in place, if it isn't split
around it's diameter

The tone ring you can see on the outer ends of the axles,
it has about 25 teeth on it & is used with the ABS Braking System
for a variety of things

You talking rear differential? I would check the fluid level. There should be a plug where you can check fluid and add if needed. If you take the plug out and fluid tries to run out, put the plug back in, the fluid level is ok. In the old days, I'd stick the tip of my index finger and bend, If I could touch the fluid, I considered the level to be ok. I believe the spec I saw said about 3/16 below edge of hole was ok.

The axles are held in place by "C" clips inside the of the gear carrier, you must remove the rear cover and then center spider gears to access them.

I wasn't sure if you were asking about the front, rear wheel or other assembly.
The most common problem is the front wheel bearing:
I have a 2002 Escape and have changed my bearings. All the Ford Escapes are the same thru 2010. The front wheel bearings on the Escape are simple cartridge bearings, or Gen1 bearings, that are pressed onto the hub and knuckle. They are not so simple to replace. Unless you have the experience and tools, you'll need to take it to the dealer or a shop.

You will need a press and the correct press tools.
The knuckle/hub assembly needs to be removed from the vehicle.

Here's the short version:
Remove the tire/wheel.
Remove the brake caliper w/ bracket.
Remove rotor.
Remove the ABS sensor.
Remove axle nut and press the axle inwards, until loose. (sometimes easy, usual needs special tool).
Remove the strut bolts, tie rod, and the lower ball joint from the knuckle/hub assembly. Each of these connections can have it's issues.
Press the hub out of the assembly. One half of the inner race will be stuck on the hub. Use a bearing splitter to remove that half.
Remove the snap ring from the knuckle.
Press the rest of the bearing from the knuckle.
Press the new bearing into the knuckle. Press on the outer race only!
Snap ring.
Make sure the dust sheild is still in place.
Press the hub into the bearing. The bearing must be supported on the inner race only!
The point is that you must not press thru the balls in the bearing. That can cause the bearing to get brinnelled.... not good.
Reassemble the knuckle on the vehicle in reverse order. I like to put a little grease on the axle spline. The axle spline has a little helix on it... about half a degree. It's supposed to be a tight fit. The torque on the axle nut is 300Nm (about 220ft-lbs?). This torque is very, very important. It is needed to keep the bearing together and at the correct preload, so use a big torque wrench.

...or you can take it to the dealer.

Good luck. Here are some pictures that may help illustrate the difficulty:
Knuckle assy with lower control arm.

http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y48/ZeeVert/2002%20Ford%20Escape/?action=view&current=CIMG1256ss.jpg

I have a 2002 Escape and have changed my bearings. The front wheel bearings on the Escape are simple cartridge bearings, or Gen1 bearings, that are pressed onto the hub and knuckle. They are not so simple to replace. Unless you have the experience and tools, you'll need to take it to the dealer or a shop.

You will need a press and the correct press tools.
The knuckle/hub assembly needs to be removed from the vehicle.

Here's the short version:
Remove the tire/wheel.
Remove the brake caliper w/ bracket.
Remove rotor.
Remove the ABS sensor.
Remove axle nut and press the axle inwards, until loose. (sometimes easy, usual needs special tool).
Remove the strut bolts, tie rod, and the lower ball joint from the knuckle/hub assembly. Each of these connections can have it's issues.
Press the hub out of the assembly. One half of the inner race will be stuck on the hub. Use a bearing splitter to remove that half.
Remove the snap ring from the knuckle.
Press the rest of the bearing from the knuckle.
Press the new bearing into the knuckle. Press on the outer race only!
Snap ring.
Make sure the dust sheild is still in place.
Press the hub into the bearing. The bearing must be supported on the inner race only!
The point is that you must not press thru the balls in the bearing. That can cause the bearing to get brinnelled.... not good.
Reassemble the knuckle on the vehicle in reverse order. I like to put a little grease on the axle spline. The axle spline has a little helix on it... about half a degree. It's supposed to be a tight fit. The torque on the axle nut is 300Nm (about 220ft-lbs?). This torque is very, very important. It is needed to keep the bearing together and at the correct preload, so use a big torque wrench.

...or you can take it to the dealer.

Good luck.

Any clutch job reqires you to remove the transmission,as I would assume you know.

Not a driveway job.

Any work involving a transaxle,drive axles,clutches,really needs an indoor lift.

Why in 2010 would you own a clutch?
My last clutch was in 1973

ithere are 4 bolts that hold it in...the top 2 are obvious..the others are behind the bumper. the bumper must be removed to acces them...here are the manuals instructions..


Item Part Number Description 1 — Headlamp assembly bolts (3 required) 2 — Headlamp assembly nut 3 13008 Headlamp assembly 4 14290 Electrical connectors
Removal and Installation
NOTE: Make sure the headlamp switch and the ignition switch are in the OFF position.

1. Remove the front bumper cover. For additional information, refer to Section 501-19.

1. Remove the 3 headlamp assembly bolts.
   • To install, tighten to 5 Nm (44 lb-in).

1. Remove the headlamp assembly nut and the headlamp assembly.
   • Disconnect the electrical connectors.
   • To install, tighten to 5 Nm (44 lb-in).

1. To install, reverse the removal procedure.

you should not have t remove the headlight assembly to replace the bulb access should be under the hood. as for the moisture the bulb holder may be damaged or not fitted properly