Had an OBD code originally come up but had disappeared when Battery drained and never was able to get the code off it. Battery works fine though just drained from sitting.. Transmission gasket, filter, plug (replaced), 1-2, 2-3 shift servo, lines, and 2-1 accumulator on bottom all cleaned out. Fresh transmission fluid. Oil, gasket and filter has been changed. Checked wiring to transmission all works. 12 Vs, 0 Vs and solenoids click on and off as should to valve body that I checked. Is this a possible torque converter being chipped or that? Only has 120k Miles. Did have a long shift to second a week or so before this set to this condition.
Are you sure that the pump is drawing fluid? Did you get the torque converter put back in right?
Oil Pump is fine. I wouldn't be able to start it up if that failed I would lose pressure inside the body. Initially though I already had tested the pressure port off the top and it was fine too. (Forgot to post that though) So far what I could see is that I had a bad 2-3 shift solenoid a bad Speed Sensor and PCS sensor was sticking. When I got back to the Drive Sprocket I realized win it went to spin it the differential is slipping. Torque converter was never put back on yet since it is still down. I know where the problem lyes at now but for the cost I pay to get new parts and fix it up again. I talked around to a few autoshops that we do business with all the time and autozone out here is willing to get me a remanufactured transmission for $1,300 dollars that is up to the new internal upgrades and fixes done already inside. 3 Year warranty/Unlimited Mileage nation wide coverage So I figured I take that deal up to save me any headaches down the road again. I do appreciate the help on posting.
I was speaking about the oil pump in the tranny. Did not know you had tested the pressure. I wonder how you know if it wont shift if it is not back in the car? Since you had it taken down that far, you should have done a whole overhaul on it with bushings and all. 1300 seems high for that transmission. But with a warranty, it might be worth it. Check the blue book on the car and see if the value is more than the tranny. If it is not, well......
Yeah I was referring to the oil pump in the tranny. Generally if you lose that you lose all pressure inside and won't be able to start. It was before I removed it that I had the problem where it would not accelerate in any gear though. For the overhaul though and to upgrade it with better parts instead of them OEM ones. The blue book value on it is only covers general and not repairs or anything put in either so I don't necessarily go off that. They would state it around like $5.6k but that incorporate that I plan to take out the engine and rebuild it in time. This is just a point A to B car that I am using and don't care to sell. Remanufactured Transmission though I got comes with; Fully remanufactured and improved torque converter is tested for leaks, lock-up (if applicable), concentricity, and balance. Upgrades exceed OE requirements and eliminate the possibilities of front seal leaks, premature bushing wear, and vibration. Fully remanufactured valve body, with complete system correction and recalibration kit, improves pressure control and shift quality Complete road simulation using dynamometer testing program called C.A.R.S. (Computer Aided Road Simulation). All new, Delphi-spec bushings installed in key location to improve internal fluid flow control and fluid pressures. With the 3 year/Unlimited Warranty. I considered rebuilding it myself and replacing all the problems and doing the upgrades for it. All the parts and assuming I am going to the better new model transmission that was perfected it would of cost me close to around $1000 for what I needed plus my time to put it together still.. These were just some of the sites I went to and added up the pricing for just what I would of more or less got to do it. Thrust washer kit, New, $15, transmissionpartsusa.com Transmission Oil filter and Plug, New, $15, local auto parts store Intense false knock kit, New, $15, Intense-racing.com 2-1 Manual band, New, $10, transmissionpartsusa.com Input piston, NOS, $10, EBAY 4 M6 pan bolts, New, $16, Intense-racing.com Sprag retainer ring, New, $6, local GM dealer Sonnax TC relief valve, New, $5, tripleedgeperformance.com TCC apply valve end plug, New, $5, GMpartsdirect.com Case cover bolts, New, $9, local hardware store Lube dam , New, $2, transmissionpartsusa.com Sonnax lube tune retainer, New, $2, transmichigan.com, Master rebuild kit, New, $175, tripleedgeperformance.com EPC solenoid, New, $50, tripleedgeperformance.com 35/35 sprockets, used, $50, ClubGP Forward band, New, $50, tripleedgeperformance.com TransGo shift kit, New, $50, EBAY Sonnax boost valve, New, $45, transmissionpartsusa.com 4th Clutch hub, New, $45, GMpartsdirect.com Pump shaft, New, $40, GMpartsdirect.com TFP switch, New, $40, GMpartsdirect.com Teflon seals installed, New, $40, tripleedgeperformance.com GMpartsdirect.com 2nd clutch drum, Used, $30, EBAY Sonnax TCC valve, New, $25, transmissionpartsusa.com TCC solenoid, New, $20, transmissionpartsusa.com Drive links, NOS, $17, EBAY Harness, Used, $15, EBAY Solenoid Kit, New $80, EBAY Torque Converter, New $190 - $30 = 160 for Core Return, Autozone. A lot of the pricing and areas a friend sent over to me as well to help me out. I even checked and they were all spot on. I be around close to $1,000 and plus my time still and no warranty. 300 Dollars more I got the Remanufactured and Torque Converter, plus the A NO-HASSLE 3 Year/ Unlimited Mileage Nationwide parts and labor coverage. I see it as if a part does break I could save a bit of money and time this route. I already was looking at doing a whole replacement as I go along for the front and back all parts I need to replace, then replacing the engine in time as well at the same time. Most likely after the warranty is up on the Transmission haven't decided yet, and close to as many miles I get out of the engine before it gets close to it's days.. I have another 3.4L engine with close to 34k Miles on it from another Monte Carlo that had been totaled on the backside, but engine matches the same one I got and has no damage to it so far I have seen going through it.. I have been rebuilding/tuning/checking and working on it just here and there but should have it finished in a few more months with time. When I pull my other one I can repair that one or use it for parts as far as I see it. I figured with the extra engine though and remanufactured transmission now I could get a good use out of the car before it see's its last days. Only paid $1,800 he originally wanted $2,600 for the car since the orignal owner knew something was wrong with the car but wasn't sure what and they were quoting him different numbers and problems at the autoshops. I already knew the transmission was going bad when I test drove it, the engine and everything else runs fine. For the price I figured I do the work myself on it and only buy what I need and work it up to a good condtion vehicle again. Pretty good bargain deal since the guy wasn't sure what to do with all the different quotes and didn't want to take the risk on it. I have overhauled a lot of engines and transmissions in the past so I knew more or less what problems I would be looking at. This is the first 4T65E transmission I have ever taken apart to work on and got to get a good look at though at least before I decided on the route I was going to take since I could ball park the figures afterwards. I do appreciate the advice though, I had posted to a few forums on the problem. Learned some new things on this transmission which was good to know too. I guess this model tag had a high failure rate that people complained about. That is why everyone was upgrading it the newer style model to take the headaches away with it.
Good for you
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Fig. 1: Install a suitable engine support bar and attach it to the engine lifting eyes-1.8L and 1.9L engines
Fig. 2: Removing the front transaxle mount and bracket-1.8L and 1.9L engines
Fig. 1: Install a flywheel holding tool in a transaxle mounting hole on the engine, and engage the tooth of the tool into the flywheel ring gear
Fig. Fig. 1: Install a suitable engine support bar and attach it to the engine lifting eyes-1.8L and 1.9L engines
Fig. Fig. 2: Removing the front transaxle mount and bracket-1.8L and 1.9L engines
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