98 Plymouth voyager brake issues

It certainly sounds like the brake hoses are kinked or collapsed internally. Did you replace the flexible hoses or the steel hydraulic line? When you removed the calipers to change the pads did you let the calipers hang by the hoses or did you support them? When reinstalling the calipers did you make sure the hose wasn't twisted or kinked? The fluid certainly shouldn't be green, are you sure you're bleeding the correct thing?

The master cylinder doesn't have a bleeding screw. Bleeding screws are located on each front caliper and the rear drum brakes. You'll need an assistant to press the brake pedal down on signal as you open the bleed screw slightly and close it back before they allow the pedal to return to normal position each time, until you've purged it through with new clean fluid. Fill up the master cyclinder frequently as you do this to assure it doesn't run dry. (If it does the master cylinder may be toasted.) Remember bleeding these types of cars is different than many others as it has dual lines, one for each side of the car. the bleed order is: LR, RF, RR, LF to get all the air out of the lines properly. Brake should be replaced every two years in humid or wet climates as brake fluid is hygroscopic... attaches to water vapor and stays in the braking system.

There are several problems. Your caliper could be stuck and that is a problem. You probably have a rubber brake hose that is clogged up internally and restricting the flow of fluid, a second problem.
The internal rubber hose can form flaps which close off the flow of fluid. You only have pressure in 1 direction so it is easier to have a stuck caliper because the fluid will trap in the caliper and refuse to return to the Master cylinder.
But this must really be blocked or the safety valve has shut off the diagonal lockout for the ABS. For safety when fluid pressure is lost, a valve shifts and tries to keep a front and a rear brake diagonally supplied with fluid.
What you need to try before giving up on the current project is bleed your brakes starting from the longest rear line and work your way forward with the last line being the shortest.
You may discover that you now have fluid bleeding from the problem caliper. If so, part of the problem was the safety valve killed the fluid flow. You still have a bad rubber line, and possibly a stuck caliper, but now you may have fluid flow.
If I were you, I would buy a rubber brake line and change it before bleeding the system. Then you can see if the caliper is working or not. Rubber lines are cheap compared to most parts.
By bleeding the lines as I recommend, you stand a chance of centering the safety valve and solving part of your problems. If a rear line diagonal to the problem front caliper is also dry, then the safety valve was tripped.
With the rubber brake line removed, you should be able to compress the problem caliper with ease; if not, it is stuck and should be replaced.
At this point, I should mention the ABS box. Pressure coming from the box can be measured as well as Master cylinder pressure going to the box. Hydraulic gauges would be necessary. It would be the final explanation to your problems should the easier solutions fail. Testing price versus component price should be considered.
You will restore fluid flow and be able to test your stuck caliper using what I gave you.

You need to resolve all system fault codes first,
such as the ABS issue

Then work on brake hoses,calipers, etc

You will have a bearing melt down next, from
the heat

The brake system bleeding procedure differs for ABS and non-ABS vehicles. The following procedure pertains only to non-ABS vehicles. For details on bleeding ABS equipped vehicles, refer to the ABS procedures later in this section.

WARNING Make sure the master cylinder contains clean DOT 3 brake fluid at all times during the procedure.

1. The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected of containing air. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
   1. Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
   2. Loosen the left front brake line (front upper port) at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.
   3. Connect the line and tighten to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm).
   4. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal slowly one time and hold it down, while you loosen the front line to expel air from the master cylinder. Tighten the line, then release the brake pedal. Repeat until all air is removed from the master cylinder.
   5. Tighten the brake line to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm) when finished.
   6. Repeat these steps for the right front brake line (rear upper port) at the master cylinder.
      

WARNING Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle' finish, as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.

1. If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
   1. Right rear
   2. Left front
   3. Left rear
   4. Right front
2. Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
   1. Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end.
   2. Submerge the other end in a transparent container of brake fluid.
   3. Loosen the bleed screw, then have an assistant apply the brake pedal slowly and hold it down. Close the bleed screw, then release the brake pedal. Repeat the sequence until all air is expelled from the caliper or cylinder.
   4. When finished, tighten the bleed screw to 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm) for the front, or 66 inch lbs. (7.5 Nm) for the rear.
3. Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.

Fig. 1: Loosen the front brake line in order to bleed the master cylinder

Fig. 2: Connect a bleed hose from the bleed valve on the front caliper to a jar of brake fluid

Fig. 3: Always follow the lettered sequence when bleeding the hydraulic brake system

Hope this helps to solve it; remember to rate this answer.

Bleeding the Brake System
When any part of the hydraulic system has been disconnected for repair or
replacement, air may get into the lines and cause spongy pedal action (because
air can be compressed and brake fluid cannot). To correct this condition, it is
necessary to bleed the hydraulic system so to be sure all air is purged.

When bleeding the brake system, bleed one brake cylinder at a time, beginning
at the cylinder with the longest hydraulic line (farthest from the master
cylinder) first. ALWAYS Keep the master cylinder reservoir filled with brake
fluid during the bleeding operation. Never use brake fluid that has been drained
from the hydraulic system, no matter how clean it is.

The primary and secondary hydraulic brake systems are separate and are bled
independently. During the bleeding operation, do not allow the reservoir to run
dry. Keep the master cylinder reservoir filled with brake fluid.

1. Clean all dirt from around the master cylinder fill cap, remove the cap and
   fill the master cylinder with brake fluid until the level is within 1/4 I n.
   (6mm) of the top edge of the reservoir.
   
2. Clean the bleeder screws at all 4 wheels. The bleeder screws are located on
   the top of the brake calipers.
   
3. Attach a length of rubber hose over the bleeder screw and place the other
   end of the hose in a glass jar, submerged in brake fluid.
   
4. Starting at the right rear proceed in this order left front, left rear and
   right front.
   
5. Open the bleeder screw 1/2 - 3/4 turn. Have an assistant slowly depress the
   brake pedal.
   
6. Close the bleeder screw and tell your assistant to allow the brake pedal to
   return slowly. Continue this process to purge all air from the system.
   
7. When bubbles cease to appear at the end of the bleeder hose, close the
   bleeder screw and remove the hose.
   
8. Check the master cylinder fluid level and add fluid accordingly. Do this
   after bleeding each wheel.
   
9. Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the proper level.

it means the brake caliper is hanging up dragging the pads on the rotor causing heat. replace caliper and bleed brakes. also check the flexible hose that connects to that caliper. could be collapsed inside not allowing fluid to return. if in doubt replace it too at the same time with caliper and bleed brakes.

These brakes are a pretty easy fix. For the job pick up some cheap gloves, you'll need general hand tools, proper Brake Fluid (DOT 3?)some brake cleaner, a large C-clamp, new pads (front) and I'd replace the front rotors too. Place the van on jack stands, remove front tires, using some brake cleaner spray down the calipers, pay special attention to the boot around the piston to clean well (if heavy dirt is left on it, it can make for sticky caliper(s).) Place the C-Clamp ove the calliper to compressit (DO NOT TIGHTEN ON YET!) Loosen the bleeder screw on the back of the caliper and place a small tube on it, now slowly tighten on the C-clamp, this will cause the piston to gently push back in to the caliper, you'll note old fluid coming from the bleed screw. Once fully driven back (don't over tighten!) remove the C-clamp and caliper and clean up with spray. Remove and replace the rotor, install new pads (lubricate as needed) and reinstall the caliper. Repeat to other side; once done bleed brake system and replace with new brake fluid. Be carefull with brake fluid and with brake cleaner, nasty stuff!

In general this is how it goes.

I hope this may have helped!

Best regards,
Tom

Sounds like a bad caliper. I would return it and try a new one. Theres just not much else that would cause that problem.

I am a hydraulic technician and I can tell you that air is a killer in the hydraulic system.

Start from the rear and work your way forward. I f you are using the two person method, make sure the second person keeps the master cylinder full. If the fluid level dropped anywhere in between pressing and releasing the brakes....you have a lot of air in the system.

Make sure you are tightening the bleed valve when the brake pedal is full pressed.

Remeber...start from the rear brakes first, then do the front.