Electrical system drains battery when vehicle not in use

Your battery is running down? Charge lite on the dash comes, on. Do you have a voltmeter on your dash, engine running what does it read? I like to see as much over 13 volts as possible. If it is very much below 13 volts, You got a problem, in my opinion. I'd have to do testing to track the problem? When talking about charging system, there are several possible issues, not just the alternator.
I don't know year--make--model?

Make sure the battery has a full charge and battery connections all good. Engine cranking, the vehicle systems get battery voltage. Engine running, the vehicle systems get generator voltage, that can be several volt difference.
It seems like years ago I heard about removing spark plug on a vehicle that was hard to start, because of low battery. I tried it and it worked. Of course the engine was noisy as heck and it didn't run worth a darn, but, it started. In that example, I don't think it would matter which plug? I tried that about 50 years ago.
You can use digital multimeter across battery posts, everything off. The generic spec for a full charge is around 12.6 volts. Leave the meter leads touching battery posts, have helper turn key to crank, generic info says it shouldn't drop below 9.6 volts. If it drops way down, you need to get it checked out.
Also, if you have that spider fuel system, it is noted for problems.

To begin with, you\'re not driving the vehicle enough - five minutes isn\'t usually enough time to recharge the battery after a start, so if you repeatedly start it but give it only a few minutes to recharge, the cumulative drain on the battery gets to be too much.



It\'s a lot like working hard every day but eating only one boiled egg for supper every evening after work - you can do that for a while, but eventually you run out of reserves.



Short drives are also terribly hard on the engine. If it never gets up to full working temperature, it also never gets properly lubricated inside, and so wears out much faster than it should. I\'d recommend driving it no less than fifteen minutes every time (EVERY time) you use it.



All that said, you may also have a bad alternator fuse. It\'d be in the fuse box under the hood, and it should be a fairly large one. With nothing but short drives, I wouldn\'t be surprised if that fuse is also blown; when the battery gets too low, the alternator has to work really hard trying to charge it back up. If the alternator has to work really hard EVERY TIME (because the battery\'s low and never gets charged all the way back up after your short drives), it\'s pretty likely that the fuse will weaken and blow.



Again, if you find a bad fuse there... after replacing the fuse and recharging the battery, drive the vehicle more. Not more often, but keep it running longer when you drive it.

I have seen this problem on v-8 engines but not on the v-6 and the defect I saw was not the result of a gear change. The defect I witnessed would disconnect the charging system even at 70 MPH and if you did not notice it, the battery would eventually run down until the engine quit. The battery saver feature is made to prevent a large drain from running down your battery. This happens several ways. If the charging circuit is working too hard it is identified as a drain and disconnected. You need to charge the battery independent of the vehicle and then try to return the vehicle to service. Or check to see if the battery is bad.

In short, today's charging system is not the same as in the old days where once your engine starts you can fully recharge a discharged battery. (Like after a jump start). The alternators are not made to recharge a battery from a 10% charge or they can overheat. I witnessed a low battery start to charge after a jump start and it automatically disconnected within 5 minutes of the engine running. This gave the owner no other option but to charge or replace the battery.

check vehicle battery connections for obvious corrosion. If none is present, use another vehicle and battery jumper cables-properly hooked up, and with 2nd vehicle idling, try cranking Toyota. If not immediately starting, give it a few minutes to charge toyota battery, and then try again. A fully drained battery will require several minutes charge from second vehicles charging system to sufficiently charge drained battery.

HI there not all the time it could be clogged fuel filter
Or pressure regulator.
Put first replace fuel filter and see if engine starts normal. OK

good luck

ziggyone

You mean you try starting it, and it just clicks? That means your battery is dead, and you need to charge your battery, jumpstart your battery, or if it's the original battery it may be time to replace the battery.

Further clarify electric leaking? You mean that when the vehicle is off, somethine is still drawing power, draining your battery?

If so, turn off the vehicle, and go around making sure ALL your lights have turned off.
Battery drain is sometimes a hard thing to trace. It could basically be any wire on your vehicle.

I would first have the alternator checked by an auto electrician to ensure it is working correctly and is providing the correct volume of current. It may be faulty and when driving you will be drawing battery power instead of power from the alternator to run the electrics. This will drain the battery.

Alternators do not last forever and if you are still running the original unit it is likely to be on it's last legs and you will need a replacement unit.

Sounds like the starter. You can try several things but the main idea is to start it to be able to bring it to a mechanic. Disconnect the battery and push on the brake pedal. This will drain the power from the vehicle. Reconnect the battery and try to start the car. The theory behind this is the starter solenoid could be stuck energized. You can also locate the starter slightly tap on the starter and then try to start the vehicle. Also if the vehicle has sacked for some time before you purchased it the battery may not have the cranking amps necessary to start the vehicle. The electrical gizmos will work but it will not be enough to crank the engine. Check the battery is fully charged and possibly try to hook up jumper cables to another vehicle or a jump start Appliance.

The S Type is similar to the Lincoln LS.
These are TSBs that address battery drain on the LS.

Partial TSB
Article No.
02-9-5

• ELECTRICAL - BATTERY DRAIN DIAGNOSIS - SERVICE TIPS

Publication Date: APRIL 30, 2002
FORD: 2002 THUNDERBIRD LINCOLN: 2000-2002 LS
ISSUE: Some vehicles may exhibit excessive electrical system current draw which could result in a discharged battery and a no crank condition.
ACTION: Use the following Service Tips to monitor the vehicle electrical system for excessive battery current drain and repair as needed. Refer to the following Service Information Tips for details.
SERVICE INFORMATION Having a firm grasp on the design and normal operation of the electrical system will aid in properly diagnosing and repairing any faults with electrical components and/or circuitry. When the vehicle is at rest (ignition key turned off and removed), some amounts of battery current drain will be present since many of the modules and electronic components in the vehicle require this to sustain memory and system monitoring. The Powertrain Control Module, Antilock Brake Module, Electronic Automatic Temperature Control Module, Front Electronics Module, Rear Electronics Module, Driver Door Module, Instrument Cluster Module, Roof Opening Panel Module, Heated Seat Module, Driver Seat Module, Cell Phone Module and Vehicle Emergency Message System Module all have power supplied at all times for this purpose. Many of these modules monitor activity and communicate with each other through the Standard Corporate Protocol (SCP) Link. When the ignition key is first shut off and removed, the vehicle is exited and the doors are closed, the electrical system goes into "stand-by" mode, where the Rear Electronics Module (REM) and the Front Electronics Module (FEM) keep the System Switched Power (SSP) relays activated. After a minimum of 45 minutes, the REM and FEM will power down to prevent battery discharge. Power down mode occurs when the REM and FEM "time out" and release the ground on all 4 (four) of the SSP relays. The SSP relays are wired in a fashion in which they are either all on or all off. In other words, the SSP relays cannot be operated independent of each other. If power down does not occur, because of a system fault or errant SCP Link activity, the REM and FEM will remain energized along with the SSP relays and the other electrical devices that they provide power. The REM and FEM provide power and ground to devices such as exterior/interior lighting and many of the body modules in the vehicle. The Wiring Diagrams Manual may be referenced for additional information on the SSP relays, the REM and FEM, in Sections 13 & 59. Once the REM and FEM enter power down mode they will not energize the SSP relays until they are commanded to "wake up" by one or more of the following commands:

• Key Fob Activity (Any Command)
• Door Ajar (Any Door)
• Luggage Compartment Ajar Switch
• Drivers Power Seat Switch
• Power Tilt/Telescopic Steering Column
• Headlamps/Park Lamps On
• Key In Ignition
• Key On Ignition
• Anti-Theft Hood Switch
• Brake Pedal Position Switch
• Memory Seat Switch

BATTERY DRAIN DIAGNOSIS -------------------------------------------