You need remove brake caliper first then remove the grease cap then remove cotter pin remove locking ring, axle nut and thrust washer.then remove the bearing inner parts.you need remove inner seal you have to pry it out.make sure you are in clean enviroment with no dirt or dust.you need to remove drive out bearing race out of rotor or drum using long brass drift or press it out.then press in new bearing race into rotor or drum. pack the inner bearing with clean wheel bearing grease and fit it into inner race press in a new axle seal into place by hand. lightly coat the stub axle with grease and install the drum or rotor, careful not to damage the seal, pack the outer bearing and install the bearing thrust washer and nut.to adjust the bearing preload by tightening the nut while turning the drum or rotor,when the nut is snug try to move thrust washer with a screw driver.back the nut off until the thrust washer can be moved without prying or twisting the screwdriver.without turning the nut install the locking ring so a new cotter pin can be installed through the hole in the stub axle, bend the cotter pin. pack some grease into the cap and install it.
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SOURCE: replace front wheel bearings
The bearings in your car are pressed into a hub. If the part is available as an assembly, it can be replaced that way. Generally on a front drive car:
Remove wheels and brake calipers
If it is pressed in: remove the rotors, disconnect the drive shafts and remove the steering knuckle. Then the old bearing is pressed out and the new one pressed in with a machine shop press. If the bearing is part of the hub, that will be unbolted and the new one swapped.
On a scale of 1-10 difficulty, Id rate it a strong 7
SOURCE: I need instructions on how to replace rear wheel bearings on my 1994 Honda Civic
Bearings are pressed into the hubs...much easier, faster and economical (if you don't have a press) to replace the complete bearing/hub assembly, no pressing is needed, since bearings are already pressed into the new hubs. Cost..aprox, 60 buxs each.
Here are the steps for the rear replacement...
Loosen the lug nuts on a rear wheel. 2) Chock the wheels and jack the rear of the car on the side with the lug nuts that you just loosened. 3) Remove the wheel by removing the lug nuts. 4) Pry open the dust cap covering the center of the axle/spindle. A small screwdriver tapped into the space between the hub and dust cap will work well for this. 5) With the dust cap now removed, use a thin center punch to straighten the little dent in the rim of the spindle nut so that you will be able to turn it freely in the next step. 6) Use a 32mm socket and a large breaker-bar to loosen the spindle nut. Unscrew the nut all the way and place it in a clean, safe area. 7) You should now be able to slide the hub/bearing assembly from the shaft. 8) Installation is the reverse of removal. Use plenty of high-temperature wheel bearing grease on all surfaces before you mount the replacement hub assembly.
IMPORTANT: Torque the spindle nut to 134 ft/lbs....(per manual specs)
When reinstalling the dust caps, tap them gently into place to avoid denting them...Install wheels, jack her down and pat yourself on the back...job complete.
Good luck..hope this will fixya up...please take time to leave me a fixya rateing...
SOURCE: VW Jetta torque setting and hub nut size????
129 ft/lbs. Per Bentley...I'm pretty sure it's a 30 mm 12 point socket.
SOURCE: Procedure for replacing rear wheel bearings 2000 Forester
i'm assuming you don't have a hubshark,this is a tool that will alllow you to remove the bearing while the knuckle is attached to the car,you may be able to rent this tool at a auto prts store .if not you need to remove the entie knuckle,first remove the trailing arm bolt,then the lateral link bolt{long and stubborn bolt},disassemble the brake shoes and parking brake cable,abs sensor if equipped the knuckle to strut bolt{no marking necessary they are not eccentric} then you need a to use or borrow a press to remove hub and bearings good luck
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Thank you so much for your help. Tom
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