Just replace EGR valve and unclogged manifold then after putting everything back together I turned the car and the rpm's went crazy; reving up and down. The car sounded like a belt was loosed and a ping knocking. It sounds like a valve is not working properly?
Sound like you jumped a tooth on the timing belt. Change it immediately. If it jumps more or completely fails you will bend all the valves. Just make sure you time it correctly. However a bad Mass Airflow sensor would cause the RPMs to go crazy. But the pinging is most likely the valve tapping the piston and needs immediate attention as well.
I don't think that's the problem...I was servicing my Honda because I got an insufficient air flow and could not pass the smog test. I replace the EGR valve, but needed to clean it further into the intake manifold chamber. I needed to therefore remove air hoses, the EGR valve, the fuel injectors, so forth to be able to get to the manifold, loosen it, and clear the clog. While I was cleaning the residue some of the debri got into the chamber and into the holes where the fuel injectors sit. When I went to turn on the car, the rpms were surging up and down to over 4000 rpm's. Is this a valve problem, a faulty EGR or a IAC valve issue?
The EGR could be recirculating un-burnt gasses thus cuasing it to rev. The valves wouldnt have anything to do with that issue, just the pinging.
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SOURCE: honda accord 1996 v6 2.7 liter,rpm gage jump up and down
Here is the most common cause of surges and stalls, it is the idle speed control air-bypass valve and throttle valve, they get full of gunk over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.
SOURCE: 2000 Honda Accord EGR Valve Error P0401
Jason,
-after you change the part you have to reset/clear the code
-this can be done by either:
(1) using the OBD2 code reader that Autozone used OR since option 2 (below) is very quick
(2) disconnecting the battery for about 30 seconds (this will delete
all codes/radio presets/etc) but it will also clear the 'check engine'
code
-this is what I do AFTER i write down my radio station presets :)
-hopefully the new EGR valve resolves your issue after you CLEAR the code
...but that code just means a an insufficient amount of Exhaust Gas
recirculation (pressure difference) used to keep the emissions in check
-if it comes back, then there are a few other fixes to try also
-let me know if you need further assistance
-please remember to rate me `fix-ya`if it works
thanks
SOURCE: 1992 Honda accord LX 4 cylinder when in park and
check Thordle Cable see if it too tight if yes loosen cable or check vacume leak , possible at thordle body air valve too far open , or remove cover at Body side 8 mm socket & turn it all the way in
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Still working on this problem that has me baffled so instead of trying to guess the problem I went ahead and bought a code reader. The codes I am receiving is P0108, P0505 and P0505 pending. The 108 code revers to a high input on the Intake Manifold sensor and the 505 revers to the Idle air valve malfunctioning. So I went ahead into first fixing the IAC valve.
Replaced MAP sensor and the car doesn't surges up and down but idles high at 3k rpm. Received code P1399 pending. I do not know what will come next on my car, confused?
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