LIMP MODE HOME

have the fault codes read first

Please just google this, GM fault codes P2138, P2123

old post , and great question

the TB is a thing that contains the AIR throttle, the body holds

that TV throttle valve (or some call it a TP throttle plate)

this car has 6 engines, and varies by country. what country>?

what engine? (USA cars have a hood EPA tag, it states the engine)



sure cleaning it can help and for sure with throttle by wire.

the body gets full of EGR/PCV crap. (called GUNK) and if not

removed on high mileage cars, it jams the silly throttle by wire

motor. (and related\'s)

why not scan the PCM and SEE ALL DTC errors.

that be first. !!!



loose power has many causes, up to 50.

why not scan it first, (the CEL lamp to me is useless , unless stuck on)

scan it first.

this engine has many limphome modes (suzuki failsafe)

and will run slow. in limp mode.

scan it.

the TBW , throttle by wire has it\'s own limp mode.

the transmission too, and others.



The TBW has up to 4 TPS sensors. 2 on the foot and 2 in the TB

if ANY of the 4 , do not AGREE, you go to LIMP HOME MODE>

or end up like a Toyota and huge class action lawsuits.



loss of power, not transmission caused, (slips or skips gears)

is engine power loss.

cause by (top ones of 50)

1: never getting a tuneup. and for sure the 60k mile.

2: misfire, caused by 3 major things. ask.

3: flooding.

4: bad spark see #1

5: clogged air filters see #1

6: clogged fuel filter.

7: weak fuel pump.

8: and the big one is loss o f engine compression for huge list of causes.

9: not scanning the PCM and believing what it told you. !!!

2004 Ford Explorer: the wrench light came on - which according..limp

Customer Question

My husband wash the engine of our 2004 Ford Explorer. About 2 hours later the wrench light came on - which according to the manual it has something to do with the Electronic throttle control and now I guess it is running in default "limp-home" operation?? Sounds serious. What does this mean since there is no other explanation in the manual.
Hello and welcome to Just Answer!this vehicle uses an electric throttle control system and has no throttle cable or mechanical link between the accelerator pedal and the throttle body on the engine. This is commonly known as "throttle by wire". When the wrench light comes on, it signifies that there is a problem with the electronic throttle control system. The system consists of accelerator pedal position sensors, or sensor on the throttle pedal (there are more than one as back ups incase one fails), throttle position sensors out on the throttle body itself and there are more than one of these too and a throttle motor that actually opens and closes the throttle plate. If the system detects a fault in any of the sensors or the motor itself, it will turn on the wrench light and go into "limp mode". In limp mode, depending on what the computer thinks is wrong, it will either limit the throttle to about 35% or it will command idle and won't let the engine accelerate at all. It does this because when a sensor fails, the system's ability to control the throttle is compromised and as a safety meausre to keep the engine from accelerating when not commanded to do so, the throttle is limited. this problem is likely due to water intrusion into a sensor or an electrical connector. I never recommend using a water hose to clean an engine as water can infiltrate connectors and sensors and cause problems.This is not an easily diagnosed problem and if it doesn't go away when the water dries, will have to be taken to a diagnostic shop to be trouble shot and repaired.

Having a restoration shop and running several newer Jaguars I have seen similar situations. Intermittent multiple errors such as these can be caused by a low battery (or corroded connections) that "fool the computers". Also had a '99 XJ8 VDP have exactly the same issues over several months. Issue was a manufacturing fault in the sensors on the throttle body that caused the "limp home" mode - usually in stop and go traffic. Jaguar had an inspection and recall on the throttle bodies but that vehicle had gone through 3 different Jaguar dealers for service and none looked at TSB/Recall or performed the necessary checks on the throttle body. Tried cleaning the throttle several times (per Jaguar TSBs) but no change. Had to replace throttle body & problem solved (over 30,000 miles since then). Recommend making sure all air connections to throttle are clean and open and cleaning the throttle area to see if that helps.

On newer Jaguars (and other Al bodied cars) similar problems occur when the "ground" connections to the body become poor (usually through corrosion but sometimes through collisions). Connections may look perfectly normal but have high resistance. Careful when working with the connections - the posts are usually very loosely fastened to the bodies. The engine quit on a 2005 XJ8 VDP when I turned the wipers on (fortunately I was driving slow in a parking lot) because one of the forward bulkhead ground connections was corroded (looked normal but separated from body when removing the wires to clean them).

Also there occur occasional funny intermittent issues with all newer Jags that seem to be untraceable and non-reproducable computer "glitches".Good luck.

the best thing to do is to have the car scaned with the diagnostic computer to see what fault codes are stored.
acording to the fault code you'll be able to work out what's wrong with it.
I'm sorry i ca't be anymore helpfull.

MOST TIME LIMP MODE MEAN ECM FAILING IF YOU CANT ERASE OLD CODE AND REPROGRAM ECM. AND IT CANT RELEARN NEW PART ECM HAS A MEMORY FAULT.

I have a 2004 LS V8 & do all my own work

I can understand the battery failed as it was
more than 4 or 5 years old

The converters would have had to be damaged
in the accident if something got under the car
& damaged the exhaust pipes,no other reason

The Gas Pedal is called a Electronic Throttle
Control Module,I'm looking at my wiring diagrams
for a V6 &v8. I don't see that as an issue

The Throttle Body is almost always replaced at a dealer
& seldom an issue either. Reason --When you have a really
bad COP Ignition Coil it spikes your PCM & the signal
comes back on the TPS Sensor on the throttle body &
the pcm looses throttle plate % & starts to cut out
fuel injectors

Bottom line ,not many people like working on Ford Products
& the dealer will really cost you dearly & with negative results.

I have seen many codes related to coils & never more than
one bad one,while it could happen

It sounds as though 80% of your issues have nothing to do
with the accident.

We own one of the most complicated vehicles out there
It has Jaguar Technolgy as well

I don't know if any testing or diagnosing was done on your car
or if what was done invloved a body shop,then off the a dealer
or local repair shop,but I don't get a warm fuzzy fealing on anything
but the battery

As long as your wrench is light you have codes to at least look at

The ETC Failsafe on the right bottom side if dash is a BAD COIL
as I explained above. You will drive up to 22 miles in hot weather

The PCM you can see & feel under & behind the glove box
To remove it you have to remove the box on pass side of engine
compartment that covers the Cabin Filter as the 2 harness connectors
ar there down low

I doubt the PCM Failed

Go to a local shop that likes lincolns & just have them find
the one bad ignition coil.
them it will only go 6 mph in failsafe. Unusable for now

You have four fault code there...

Code 11
Description: Engine not cranked since last reset or no ignition reference signal detected during cranking
Power loss light: Off
Limp-in mode: None

Possible Causes:
Engine hasn't been cranked since last reset - Power was removed from the logic module (disconnected or dead battery, etc.) and the logic module has no memory of seeing a signal from the ignition reference sensor. Crank the engine and check for the code again. If the logic module saw a signal, the code will be cleared. This code will not show up if the sensor simply fails. The logic module must be reset and the engine cranked to see if the sensor is working.

Bad connection or wiring - Check the wiring and connections between the hall effect sensor (located underneath the distributer cap) and the logic module. Check the continuity of the two 3 conductor cables coming out of the sensor--these are prone to fatiguing and breaking inside the insulation where they exit the sensor if the cables are not properly tied down. You may be able to resolder them. Clean and regrease any corroded connectors with dielectric grease and repair any shorts. This code will not show up if the sensor simply fails. The logic module must be reset and the engine cranked to see if the sensor is working (see above).

Hall effect sensor failure- Check the ignition reference sensor and fuel injector sync sensor cables. They are the two, flat 3 conductor cables coming out of the sensor at the base of the distributer cap. These often fatigue where they exit from the sensor. Upon replacing the sensor, make sure the cables are clipped or tied to the distributor cap shroud (or elsewhere) so they do not swing around. This code will not show up if the sensor simply fails. The logic module must be reset and the engine cranked to see if the sensor is working (see above).


Code 23
Notes: For throttle body injected (N/A) models only

Description: Throttle body temperature sensor signal out of range
Power loss light: On
Limp-in mode: Throttle body temperature of 70^F is assumed

Possible Causes
Throttle body temperature sensor failure - The sensor should measure 9,120 ohms to 10,880 ohms at 77^F. This sensor is located on the side of the throttle body, below the throttle plate.

Bad connection or wiring - Check the wiring and connections between the sensor and the logic module (or SMEC). Clean and regrease any corroded connectors with dielectric grease.

Diagnostic Method
Trigger Parameters
- Sensor output less than 0.06V or greater than 4.98V
Results If Component Fails
Fault code 23 is stored, the power loss light is turned on, and the logic module will enter limp-in mode, assuming a throttle body temperature of 70^F.

Code 32
Description: Logic module did not see a change in air/fuel ratio when EGR circuit was activated
Power loss light: Off
Limp-in mode: None

Possible Causes
EGR valve stuck open or closed - If the vehicle fails emmisions, then the valve may be shut. If the enigne runs poorly at low rpm or at idle, the valve may be stuck open. It may be the valve or the transducer valve. Test the transducer valve vacuum output. At idle, the transducer valve vacuum should be mostly bled, and there should be very little, if any vacuum at the output. When the engine is revved, the vacuum should increase. If the transducer is functioning properly, replace the EGR valve.

Bad EGR solenoid or Canister purge/EGR solenoid - The solenoid is located in the right, front fender next to one to three other solenoids. See the Understanding Solenoids page for information about how to test and repair solenoids.

Bad connection or wiring - Check the wiring and connections between the solenoid and the logic module (or SMEC). Clean and regrease any corroded connectors with dielectric grease and repair any shorts.

Diagnostic Method
Trigger Parameters
- The EGR solenoid was deactivated, but the oxygen sensor reading did not change
Results If Component Fails
Fault code 32 is stored.

Code 55
Description: End of message
Power loss light: Off
Limp-in mode: None

Possible Causes
No further fault codes are stored. If this is the only code received, then there are no codes stored in memory. This code will always be given, even if nothing is wrong. If you do not get this code, then you may not be retreiving the codes properly, or the power loss light may be burnt out. The light should come on for 1 second when the ignition is initally turned on as a bulb test.

Diagnostic Method
Trigger Parameters
- No further codes in memory


Hope this helps (remember to rate this answer).

{: ) The stabiltrak light is just an after effect of the check engine light. When the system detects inconsistencies with the accelerator pedal position and throttle position sensors, it will enter into "Limp Mode", engine power will be reduced and you cannot accelerate normallly as you expected. So that you can LIMP your way back home, or to a nearest service shop. A P2138 code may be set, or its conjunctions. Before you decide to have it serviced, if you have the time, try to disconnect the connector at the accelerator pedal. Check for any backed out terminals. Then reconnect again firmly. When you hear it clicks in, it's firmly seated. Testdrive. If not okay, you do the same thing to the throttle position connector. It's on the side of the throttle body. I hope you get lucky.