I washed the engine with pressure washer, cranked it up idled fine for 5 mins, then it tried to cut off on me. i mashed on the gas to keep from dyeing on me. it didn't but now it will idle at 2000 to 2500 RPM i make sure every thing is dry, but still no difference. i removed the throttle position sensor and it now idles fine.but as soon as i put it back it shots back high. can it be reset or do i need to replace it?
SOURCE: Starts fine when cold, after running dies on idle then wont start
Sounds like the fuel filter is dirty and needing to be changed. It's cheap and easy to swap out.
SOURCE: Engine idle problem. Range Rover 4.6 HSE 1998 Have
sorry but you have tried everything i would have done except that i would have checked the engine breather pipes for deterioation like perished or soft and collapsing .you would be surprised how often this is the main cause of this sort of problem
SOURCE: 98 land rover starts and idles fine. when engine
I have a 97 disco that did the same thing and it was the fuel pump, have the pressure tested if it is low order the fuel pump from Ebay for $39 it works great and any half assed MX can put it in in an hour, There is an access panel in the back under the carpet, Good luck
SOURCE: 1997 land rover discovery idles
Hi, this is almost always caused by the Idle Control Valve (IAC), which is located near the firewall, on the passenger side, next to the throttle body. They sell for about $50. On generation 1 cars (1993 to 1997) these are very difficult to remove and install, but it can be done-or you could try to 'SEAFOAM" the intake by running a bottle in the gas tank and taking another bottle and run it through the intake by disconnecting the PVC hose while the engine is running, push the hose (it will **** the Seafoam into the intake) and then let it sit for about 10 minutes. Two bottles will run you about $14. When you start it up, expect alot of smoke-it might even bring the volunteer fire company, but it is the carbon build up being cleaned out of the engine. The engine should be fully warmed up before you do this. After you do this, disconnect the positive battery cable for about 10 minutes-it allows the computer (ECU) to 'relearn' inputs from the various sensors like the IAC. I actually did this on two Generation One marks I have owned, and in both cases, it cured the problem. The high idle in drive and park is tough on the engine and murder (in drive) on the already fragile transmission, not to mention the brutal effect it has on U-joints when you shift into drive at high RPM's, so you want to get it fixed as soon as possible or park it until you can solve it.
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