Still need the codes.
Injectors can go "bad" in a couple of different ways; all they are is an electromagneticaly controlled nozzle. When the ECU "fires" the injector, it pulses a ground circuit for 4-8 milliseconds, the electromagnet powers up, the valve at the bottom of the injector opens, and the fuel shoots out, under pressure. The wire can be bad/chafed/corodded/ The electromagnet may be weak. The nozzle may be stuck. Lots of things. But, to put in an injector for a number 4 cylinder misfire (p-0304 code) would be one of the last things that I would do.
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Ed, the local repair shop here in Mt.Shasta ( AKA The land of no Repair) said they could check it in a week. So i'm stuck till then. I also say several post from others that had a clogged MAF sensor, Would it help to try cleaning it with some electronic cleaner?
Grasping at straws in remote northern california.
Thanks, Jess
Thanks Ed, I took the MAF apart, it was a little dirty, so I sprayer the **** out of it. I drove it to town, It was running a bit better & the check engine lite was off, until I pulled it back in the garage, then the damn lite came back on. O'Well I guess i'll have to wait till next week & get it checked then.
Thanks for your help though, Now I know where the MAF is.
Jess
Ed, I finally got my tacoma to the repair shop. First they said that the #4 injector was bad, then when I called before they closed for the day, they said that didn't fix the problem. So i'm waiting for them to open to see what they came up with.
What makes an injector go bad? Iv'e had 6 toyota trucks over the years and never had any real problems with them.
Also you should have seen the look on the guys face when I told him I cleaned the MAF sensor. I guess he thought a girls shouldn't enjoy fixing things.
Jess
Ed, the coil wire was the problem the whole time. thanks, for all your help.
Jess
Get the codes and get back to me. You may need a second drive cycle to relearn the ecu the correct fuel trims with the now-clean MAF.
WIthout the codes, it is hard for me to say...but, cleaning the MAF never hurts. Look at the intake tube, between the air filter box and the metal intake manifold. There is a small black box, held in by 2 phillips screws. Unplug the wiring connector, and remove the 2 screws. Extract the MAF out of the tube, and, using a flashlight, inspect the interior of the sensor. What you will see is a small bulb-looking thing, and 2 VERY small silver wires. If there is any type of "fuzzys" or other debris on the internal silver wires, you do have a problem. Get some brake cleaner spray from the local auto parts store & spray the daylights out of it until the wires are perfectly clean. Please do NOT use compressed air, the blast of air may break the wires. Once the MAF is clean, put it all back together and drive it. Advise of how she runs. It will take several miles for the ECU to see and learn the new MAF values transmitted. Hope this will help you. Please get back to me.
Perhaps I can help you. Have you had the vehicle hooked up to a scan tool, and retreived the codes (the reason for the check engine light)? If I had the codes, I could give you some reliable information to cure your problem. Please respond back. Thanks.
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