1993 Plymouth Laser Logo

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Anonymous Posted on Dec 14, 2017

Why my 93 plymouth laser idle will not level off. i just replaced the motor, i removed the turbo by exchanging exhaust manifolds all plug in were the same, the motor fired right up but once it warmed up the idle dropped down to 1000 rpm and then back up to 1500 rpm then down then up and so forth never leveling off

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Jason Larocque

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  • Plymouth Master 292 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 15, 2017
Jason Larocque
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Computer trying to compensate still thinks the turbo is there might need the non-turbo computer

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Anonymous

  • 10 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 24, 2009

SOURCE: 1993 plymouth laser idling erratically

The bad ecu blew the isc motor

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No power backfires,engine code PO134,replaced 02 sensors,map sensor,idle air sensor,throttle position sensor,took to chrysler,paid 150.00 to check,they said they need more time & money.Is a 2000 ULEV...

p0134 is the upstream 02 sensor staying center and will cause a drivability problem. you don't need to replace both of them, the one at fault is the upstream one, mounted on the exhaust manifold.I do it under the vehicle while on a lift, if you can see it from behind the engine and access it, just remove it. spray it down with some penetrating liquid before attempting to remove it
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This sounds like you have a plugged "pre cat". This item sits just below the exhaust manifold and is a common item to plug and cause the engine to be
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I need instructions for replacing the turbo on a Saab 1999 9-5 4 cyl turbo

Hi, I have done this and it is not too bad, but will take you about 4 hours if you are good, and longer if you have not done much mechanics.

The trick is to find a reasonably priced turbo, check ebay. There is a dude on there that just does rebuilt turbos. Very good, got mine for $

I have been reading up on turbo replacement procedure and I have found this list: First, there are a couple of questions that I have about the list:

2 air openings, pretty easy to figure out
2 exhaust openings, pretty easy to figure out
3 round openings in the center, all banjo bolts?
1 round / two bolt opening in the center.
1 Hose fitting off of the waste-gate
1 Hose fitting off of the air side of the turbo.

STEP 1 Open the expansion tank cap to release the system pressure.
STEP 2 Raise the car & Remove the lower front cover under the car
STEP 3 Drain off the coolant & Remove the turbo brackets
STEP 4 Loosen the return fitting and the pipe from the turbo to the block
STEP 5 Loosen the oil pipe between the filter adapter and the turbo
STEP 6 Lower the car to the floor & Remove the bypass valve & Unplug the connector from the control valve
STEP 7 Disconnect the mass air flow sensor connector & Loosen the hoses to the turbo
STEP 8 Remove the crankcase banjo bolt from the intake manifold and unscrew the bolt from the cam cover
STEP 9 Move the pipe and wiring aside & Remove the engine lifting eye
STEP 10 Remove the mass air flow sensor and air hose
STEP 11 Remove the exhaust manifold heat shield by removing the nut and two clips from underneath
STEP 12 Undo the intake manifold clamp at the turbo & remove the intake
STEP 13 Disconnect the hose clip on the hose between the intercooler & turbo & plug it to keep something from falling in it
STEP 14 Loosen the front exhaust system from the turbo & lower the front exhaust system away from the turbo (DO NOT BEND -THE FLEX HOSE)
STEP 15 Remove the oil pipe from the oil filtermag-glass_10x10.gif adapter & grab the copper washers
STEP 16 Loosen the coolant pipe by the turbo & grab the copper washers & loosen the coolant pipe bolt
STEP 17 Remove the coolant return pipe from the cylinder head & pressure sensor bracket. Once again, Grab the copper washers
STEP 18 Undo the coolant return pipe bolt by the turbo
STEP 19 Undo the nuts securing the turbo to the exhaust manifoldmag-glass_10x10.gif. (spray the nuts with WD40)
STEP 20 Install in Reverse


Just did this for the first time. Here are a few hints that may help others.

1) PB BLASTER is your friend. Remove the exhaust top front heat shield and hit exhaust nuts with PB Blaster as soon as you start the job, or night before.

2) Make sure that you have 12mm closed end wrench with AND without ratchet. Also a 1/2 size 12mm socket if you can find / make. These will help.

3) You don't have to remove the oil filtermag-glass_10x10.gif, but there one bolt that it would be nice for. I did not and did manage to get the job done.

4) Take you time. More of finding the right tool combination for each bolt.

5) Two banjo bolts on the turbo were really on there. Needed to use a mini-acetylene torch to eat up.

6) Have extracting sockets and bits ready just in case there are issues getting bolts / nuts off.

Turbo had quite a bit of end-play, but spun fine. Classic symptoms, blue smoke at start up and from time to time when driving. It was also making a bit of noise at idle.

jeffo2 ort11


Also, should get new copper washers. I did not have I have some micro leaks from time to time but nothing bad.

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Hi Whitewolf108,

Is your vehicle a turbo diesel? or if it's petrol, again does it have a turbo?.... The turbo can often cause the effect that your explaining, regarding the orange glow from the exhaust manifold.... To give any more advice, I'll need more info from you....Example: do you live at a high altitude?.....The type of engine?....Any modifications bolted on?.... When did the idling become too high, was anything done to the carburation around that time?

Regards Johngee10
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