Front hubs sticking in locked position need to rebuild, How to and any suggested parts for replacement

First off do you have manual hubs or auto hubs. is the stick on the floor or is it push button?? Kinda sounds like if it is manual hubs you have to lock in then they are not locking in to give that tire power, you can get new hubs from a parts store but i suggest you to get the WARN hubs do to they will last longer than stock hubs..

Try select 4wd and reverse about 50 feet then select normal and drive forward..this sometimes free up the hubs.

Automatic Locking Hubs REMOVAL & INSTALLATION The following procedure covers removal & installation only, for the hub assembly. The hub should be disassembled ONLY if overhaul is necessary. In that event, an overhaul kit will be required. Follow the instructions in the overhaul kit to rebuild the hub.

1. Remove the capscrews and washer from the hub cap. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the automatic locking hubs
   
   
2. Remove the hub cap and spring.
3. Remove the bearing race, bearing and retainer.
4. Remove the keeper from the outer clutch housing.
5. Remove the large snapring to release the locking unit. The snapring is removed by squeezing the ears of the snapring with needle-nose pliers.
6. Remove the locking unit from the hub. You can make this job easier by threading 2 hub cap screws into the outer clutch housing and hold these to pull out the unit. To install:
   
7. Wipe clean all parts and check for wear or damage.
8. Coat all parts with the same wheel bearing grease you've used on the bearings.
9. Position the locking unit in the hub and install the large snapring. Pull outward on the unit to make sure the snapring is fully seated in its groove.
10. Install the keepers.
11. Install the bearing retainer, bearing and race. Make sure that the bearing is fully pack with grease.
12. Coat the hub cap O-ring with wheel bearing grease and install the hub cap.
13. Install the capscrews and washers. Tighten the screws to 45 inch lbs. (5 Nm).

Manual Locking Hubs The engagement and disengagement of the hubs is a manual operation which must be performed at each hub assembly. The hubs should be placed FULLY in either Lock or Free position or damage will result. WARNING
Do not place the transfer case in either 4-wheel mode unless the hubs are in the Lock position! Locking hubs should be run in the Lock position periodically for a few miles to assure proper differential lubrication.

Hi,
Do you have auto locking hubs on the front wheels, or manual locking hubs?
If you have auto locking hubs chances are they are not engaging properly and will need to be removed and spline sets checked for broken teeth on locking hub and locking shaft.
If you have manual locking hubs then check that they are firm when turning to engage them in the lock position.If they are light when engaging them to the lock position then they my have broken/worn out the locking hub and spline. Also check that the engaging spring inside the hub has enough tension to engage the hubs they may be broken. If the hub are all ok then you have a problem in the transfer box, where the 4WD lever is not meshing the transfer box properly. Hope this helps, let me know how you get on.

Jason

You probably have blown drive hubs. Do you have to engage the hubs at the wheels? If not and they are automatic locking and they are probably blown or seized into the unlock position. They are not too expensive to replace with manual locking hubs (My Suggestion) but the autolocking hubs are expensive. When you take the caps off the front drive spindles and try running it again you may see the axle turning inside but not the wheel. That is the best test. Wish you luck!!

This is common. the locks due tend to freeze up and need either a greasing or replacement. I do suggest automatic locking hubs that you don't have to turn yourself. You can get the part almost anywhere

Losing turning radius is normal for 4x4. The grinding can be from hidden rear emergency brakes in back of rear rotors. The front pads can make noise and the front hubs should be checked if you do decide on replacing the front brakes.

A few hunderd possible causes - sticking pistons, frozen slide pins, loose pads, worn pads, offset/loose/missing bolts - caliper, worn hub bearing, defective master cylinder, malfunction in the master cylinder vacuum boost bellows. Anybody's guess

Hub and Bearing Assembly
CAUTION: Do not begin this removal procedure unless the following parts are available:

• A new front axle wheel hub retainer (3B477) (Step 1).
• A new inboard halfshaft joint stub shaft circlip.

Once removed, these parts must not be reused during assembly. Their torque holding ability or retention capability is diminished during removal.
Removal

1. Turn ignition switch to the OFF position and place the steering column in the unlock position.
   

1. CAUTION: Discard the front axle wheel hub retainer. It is a torque prevailing design and cannot be reused. If loosened, the retainer must be removed and a new one installed.
   Remove and discard front axle wheel hub retainer (3B477).
   

1. Raise vehicle on hoist.
   

1. NOTE: Make sure steering column is in the unlocked position, and do not use a hammer to separate tie rod end (3A130) from the front wheel knuckle (3K185) . Use extreme care not to damage boot seal.
   
   Remove cotter pin from tie rod end stud and remove slotted nut. Discard cotter pin and nut.
   

1. Using Tie Rod End Remover 211-001 (TOOL-3290-D) or equivalent and Tie Rod End Remover Adapter 211-087 (T81P-3504-W), remove tie rod end from front wheel knuckle.
   

1. CAUTION: Use extreme care not to damage boot seal. Do not use power tools to remove the nut, or bearing and seal damage will result. Loosen the nut first, then remove nut from stud using the hex hold feature.
   For SHO vehicles, remove vinyl cover from upper link stud.
   Remove stabilizer bar link (5K484) from front shock absorber (18124) .
   

1. Remove disc brake caliper (2B120) and support with wire to obtain working space. Do not allow disc brake caliper to separate from the front disc brake caliper anchor plate (2B292) to prevent contamination of the disc brake guide pin journals. Do not allow disc brake caliper to hang from front brake hose (2078) . Remove front disc brake rotor (1125) . Remove front disc brake rotor from wheel hub (1104) by pulling it off the lug bolt (1107). If front disc brake rotor is difficult to remove from front wheel knuckle , strike front disc brake rotor sharply between lug bolt with a rubber or plastic hammer.
   If front disc brake rotor will not pull off, apply Rust Penetrant and Inhibitor D7AZ-19A501-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M99C56-A to inboard and outboard rotor/hub mating surfaces. Install 3-Jaw Puller 205-D027 (D80L-1013-A) or equivalent and remove front disc brake rotor by pulling on front disc brake rotor outside diameter and pushing on hub center. If excessive force is required for removal, check front disc brake rotor for lateral runout prior to installation. Refer to Section 06-00.
   

1. Remove anti-lock brake sensor mounting bolt and front brake anti-lock sensor (2C204) .
   

1. Remove and discard lower ball joint nut. Using Remover Adapter 211-211 (T96P-3010-A1), separate lower ball joint from front suspension lower arm (3078) .
   

1. Using Rotunda Spring Compressor 014-00781 or equivalent, compress front coil spring (5310) until lower ball joint clears front suspension lower arm .
   

1. Using Front Hub Remover/Replacer 204-069 (T81P-1104-C), Two Stud Adapter 205-237 (T86P-1104-A1), Metric Hub Remover Adapter 204-085 (T83P-1104-BH) and Front Hub Installer 204-067 (T81P-1104-A), press front wheel driveshaft joint (3B414) from wheel hub . Wire front wheel driveshaft joint to body to maintain a level position.
   
   
   
   
   
   Item Part Number Description 1 204-085 (T83P-1104-BH) Metric Hub Remover Adapter 2 204-067 (T81P-1104-A) Front Hub Replacer 3 — Turn Wrench Counterclockwise 4 — Hold Wrench Stationary While Turning Other Wrench 5 204-069 (T81P-1104-C) Front Hub Remover/Replacer 6 204-067 (T81P-1104-A)1 Two Stud Adapter A — Make Sure Metric Hub Remover Adapter 204-085 (T83P-1104-BH) is Fully Threaded onto 1107 and is Positioned Opposite the Two Stud Adapter 205-237 (T86P-1104-A1)

1. Remove and discard three hub and bearing retainer bolts from front wheel knuckle .
   

1. NOTE: Wheel hub is not pressed into front wheel knuckle . Do not use slide hammer to remove a stuck wheel hub . Do not strike back of inner bearing race. Use of these methods will damage bearing internal parts.
   
   NOTE: If bearing carrier is corroded to front wheel knuckle , apply Rust Penetrant and Inhibitor D7AZ-19A501-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M99C56-A to the inboard and outboard wheel hub/knuckle mating surface and allow to soak.
   
   Remove wheel hub from front wheel knuckle .
   
   
   
   
   

Installation

1. NOTE: If wheel hub is damaged or if any end play is detectable, replace wheel hub . End play is not adjustable. If wheel hub is disassembled, the assembly must be replaced.
   
   Remove all foreign material from knuckle bearing bore for correct seating of new wheel hub.
   

1. Lightly lubricate mating surfaces of bearing corner and front wheel knuckle.
   

1. CAUTION: Knuckle bore must be clean enough to allow wheel hub to be completely seated by hand. Do not press or draw wheel hub into place.
   Position wheel hub in front wheel knuckle . Install three new hub and bearing retaining bolts. Tighten to 83-107 Nm (61-78 lb-ft).
   

1. Push front wheel driveshaft joint into wheel hub . Hand start front wheel hub retainer.
   

1. Slowly release Rotunda Spring Compressor 014-00781 or equivalent while guiding lower ball joint into front suspension lower arm .
   

1. Install new lower ball joint nut. Tighten to 68-92 Nm (50-67 lb-ft).
   

1. Install tie rod end into front wheel knuckle . Install new slotted nut and tighten to 47-63 Nm (35-46 lb-ft). If necessary advance nut to install a new cotter pin.
   

1. CAUTION: Use extreme care not to damage boot seal. Do not use power tools to tighten nut or bearing and seal damage will result. Install nut using hex hold feature to prevent the stud from rotating.
   Install stabilizer bar link to front shock absorber . Install stabilizer bar link nut. Tighten to 77-103 Nm (57-75 lb-ft). For SHO vehicles, install stud cover.
   

1. NOTE: Remove rust from the rotor and hub mating surfaces with a medium abrasive pad.
   
   Install front disc brake rotor and disc brake caliper . Tighten caliper anchor bracket bolts to 88-118 Nm (65-87 lb-ft).
   

1. CAUTION: The front axle wheel hub retainer must be tightened to specification immediately during installation. If the retainer is not tightened immediately, the nylon lock will set incorrectly, leading to incorrect torque readings and bearing failure. Any front wheel hub retainer that is not immediately tightened to specification or is loosened must be removed and a new retainer installed.
   Install front axle wheel hub retainer . Tighten to 230-275 Nm (170-203 lb-ft).
   

1. Install wheel and tire. Tighten lug nuts (1012) to 115-142 Nm (85-104 lb-ft).
   

1. Lower vehicle.
   

1. Pump brake pedal prior to moving vehicle to position brake linings.
   

Hubs do quit working. Jack both front wheels off of the ground and lock the hubs but leave the transfer case in 2wd. If you spin one wheel the other should spin backwards. If not replace the hubs. If they do spin correctly, you may have a transfer case problem or a front chunk problem.