I GET A BAD WOBBLE IN THE FRONT END AT HIGHER SPEEDS WHEN LETTING OFF THE BRAKE AND WHEN I HIT A BUMP AT SAME SPEED IT WOBBLES, JUST LIKE THE TRUCK FELT LIKE WITH A BAD STEERING DAMPNER. CONTROL ARMS ARE GOOD,BALL JOINT AND TIE RODS ARE GOOD. THE ONLY THING THAT SEEMS LOOSE IS THE MOUNTS ON THE DIFF. HOUSING. THANKS , CURT

repair all the worn suspension parts and have a wheel alignment done

i had the same problem and thought it was ball joint but turned out i needed a new stabilizer about $30 on ebay.

If it wobbles at low speed it is usually a bad tire or bent rim. If it is at higher speeds it is almost always wheel balance.

did you have the front brake rotors machined, they are warped. either replace the brake rotors or have then machined, I prefer just replacing them as they are fairly cheap.

Cheap fix is to get wheels balanced first then work from there to tie-rods, steering gear etc.

could still be axle i have been fooled i would check tires though maybe have them balanced check for bulges or wires showing through maybe move front tires to back and see if wobble moves bad engine/ trans mount could do the same hold brake with engine in gear and tap gas if you have a bad mount the engine will want to roll over

could be a bd axle or ball joints wheel bearings are also a concideration

check the ball joints for looseness this will cause an excessive shake at higher speeds

Steering dampner (thing that looks like a shock absorber mounted sideways) can cause this. Most good alignment shops will check front end components for wear (shame on them if they didn't) but sometimes what seems like "acceptable play" if added to other components in similar condition can add up to a total of unacceptable...If dampner does not help, I'd start eliminating anything with any wear. A side-note to this is about caster angle...I never like factory camber settings...it does make steering easier but I prefer setting caster at least one full degree (+) past factory settings. This makes the vehicle more stable at higher speeds and often eliminates tendency of wheels to wobble. (won't go into full details, but it's why you can ride a bicycle with "no hands" if you turn the fork around and try that you will land on your ****!) If adjustable, it involves placing equal thickness shims on both sides, behind rear of front lower control arms. Changing this may alter toe in, so that should be re-set.

this is known as death wobble because it feels like you are going to die but slowing down will end it.

The cause for death wobble are:

1. Worn or loose tie rod ends on your steering linkage.
2. Worn or loose trackbar bushings or tie rod ends on the trackbar itself.
3. front end needs alignment.
4. and many others but the common reasons are listed above.

try to realign the front end. If it doesnt help, then you do indeed have worn steering / suspension components.