1989 Hyundai Excel Hatchback - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

If you just disconnect it, your fuel pump and starter won't work. Contact a dealer to see if there is a bypass kit is available for your car.

Check vacuum hoses for splits or leaks as this will affect low speed running, as will any manifold leaks allowing a weaker mixture at low revs. Some carbs have an anti run on solenoid to cut the fuel. See if it has one and if its functioning correctly.

Check that idle adjuster screw has, t come loose or it could have a blocked idle jet inside the carby

Usually a multifunction switch . Which is you turn signal switch .

Check fuel injector, says hubby, or carburetor. HTH

You need to have someone check the fuel pressure when the ignition is on. If the pressure is zero, or very low (like 10psi or less) then the fuel pump is probably bad. Also someone need to check for power to the fuel pump since it could be a bad relay or something. I have seen plenty of cases where a bad fuel pump works occasionally, this can make it hard to diagnose...

Research revealed the connectror is in the Fuse Panel (Fuse Box). Driver's side Left Kick Panel.

Illustraion:

the flasher unit is usually under the dash on the drivers side, it may be a square or round unit about 2" long with a connector plug on to.....hope this helps......cheers.

yes it is the sensor there is a cold temp sensor that gives more fuel when engine cold

You issue is common with 'AGING' vehicles.... this drivability issue is not necessarily Hyundai Excels. As vehicles age, there are 'MULITPLE' probable causes... primarily the Throttle Position Sensor (which is the MOST COMMON cause). Find a COMPETENT TECHNICIAN to bench test it! If it tests 'GOOD'.. then the diagnosis has to continue to determine the 'ACTUAL' cause.... Sorry, that's the business of 'DIAGNOSIS'.... it ALWAYS takes TIME!

Sound like you may need a new power steering pump or rack and pinion. Have you noticed any leaks from the vehicle? If you've had the vehicle for 21yrs, then I would have to go with the power steering pump is begining to fail. Hope this helps.

Given the age of the paint unless it has been completely repainted already, it is NOT cost beneficial to fork out the money in attempting to fix the oxidizing paint in the indicated area. Even if you did fix the area, once a vehicle starts to shows signs of this deterioration, it is a clear sign of the age of the paint job. Thus, with the cost of paint rework, it is not in your best interest to have this professionally fixed. However, you may want to attempt to fix it yourself by bringing the immediate area down to the shell with a trusted grid sandpaper kit. Then you may always patch it yourself for about 5 percent of what it would cost to do professionally.

Possible the Ignition switch is faulty, the IGN fuse is open, the solenoid is struck or the starter motor is struck or not contacting.
You will have to check one by one the above to finalise the fault.

Turn the car on and listen for a sound resembling an electric motor running, which should stop after just a few seconds of having the key turned to acc (pre ignition) If nothing then you will have to drop the gas tank belts and pull the pump from the upper assymbly. I believe it is threaded normally and the fuel hoses can be removed with the ends taped to keep dust and dirt from making its way into your fuel system.
Check O'Reilys or Autozone for the pump



GOOD LUCK AND PLS RATE THIS POST!!!!!

probably from the bottom ...

Not hardly, A dwell meter measures the saturation period of the ignition coil. It began in the days of distributers and the dwell was expressed as an angle. This was in fact the rotational angle of the distributer cam when the points were closed.
Carburettors for the most part are not adjustable within the meaning of the word, but you can clean and replace gaskets etc. Dwell meters usually double as a rev counters and maybe you mean adjusting the carburetter using rpm as a guide. The answer is still no.

If the leak is that hard to find then I will tell you what I have done. There is a product called ****. Buy a can of **** follow the instructions carefully and the leak will stop. I used this product many times even when the heater core was leaking and after 2 to 3 years still no leak. As time goes by the real leak may show up, if the hoses and connections are good I would use this product.

Did you buy the car new ? could it have been in flood watter? if it wear a dead mouse, I'm sure the smell would have been gone by now, , is the car losing any antifreeze, is there any mustier or wet spots on the floor? if you are losing antifreeze it would most likely be the heater core. otherwize if you run the A/C could be dampness from the drain being plugged up if A/c.is working properly on hot days should see watter on grownd under car front passenger side,has there been a windshield put in that you know of? hope this helped feel free to ask should you have any moor info. Thank You.

This is hard to diagnose without more details, but I would suspect the cv joint. Tie rods will not normally clunck constantly. Both can break - a cv joint is not dangerous, but a tie rod breaking is. Worth having a shop check it out.

Yes.. there is. It's called the 'FLASHER UNIT' Couldn't find any "Orientation Pics" (vehicle location), but it's usually been located under the driver's side dash: