Top 10 1995 Honda Civic Questions & Answers

wow. a lot of bad information on this site. Refer to a manual for the proper torque sequence. The civic I believe is a two step torque procedure. First 22 ft lbs, than 53 ft lbs.

Did you check the switch next to the interior light on the roof? Honda's have a switch position that turns off the dome light completely, so it won't work when the doors are opened or not shut tightly. There are 3 positions, dome light on all the time, dome light on only when door is opened, or ajar, and dome light off. I must say, I love Honda's, but I find this switch annoying!

OK here you go. there are three different engine codes for that model and engine size. first is the D15Z1. This one is 14ft.lbs. Then you have D15B7 and D15B8 these two are the same at 16ft.lbs.

I had the same problem with my 1992 Civic.
The A/C specialists in my area were'nt able to figure it out either.
After an exhaustive search on the internet, I found that a few others had been battling this problem also. Mine went on for a couple of summers before I finally got serious enough to find it.
It seems that some of the solder joints in the Heater Control Assembly were a bit weak and although the A/C light may come on and go off when you press the button on your Heater Control Assembly, the switching never actually occurs. This is because there are another four solder joints for this switch alone. That's right, if my memory is correct, there are a total of six solder joints for that A/C switch, located inside the Heater Control Assembly.
When the weather is cool, the solder joints seem to be OK, but when things get hot, the metals expand, and you will lose the connection.
It's quite a lot of work to remove the Heater Control Assembly, and you need to be careful pulling apart the unit once out of the car, but if you're mechanically inclined, it can be done for just the price of a little solder.
If you don't trust yourself with pulling apart the assembly and resoldering the connections, you can also replace the assembly. I found it listed on-line at Majestic Honda for about $240. The unit listed for 1992 appears to be the same as the one in your 1995.
From what you say in the description of your problem, this fix may be beyond your abilities, so you might want to ask someone for help. However, that being said, I'm pretty confident from your description that the A/C switch in the Heater Control Assembly is the problem, and not the compressor.
Good-luck, Mark

had the same problem w/ my 1995 honda civic lx. there is no speedometer cable in this vehicle. there is a speed controll sensor, if ur facing the front of the vehicle it is located on the left side just beyond the distributor cap/ below . its held by two screws. price range was about 75 to 125 ? i got my off a friends honda that no longer was running. bam! fixed

Well, theres a sending unit/float in the tank that sends a signal thru wires to your instrument cluster's fuel gauge. You should have an auto electric repairperson determine where your problem lies. It's not often the needle's just 'stuck' to where you could dislodge it. More often, it's pegged overfull or underempty-signaling a shorted component upstream of the gauge.

Similar problem and found the solution:
In the back of the gauge, where the 2 coils are located, there are very tiny copper wires which connect all the resistors/diodes. they each travel from within the coil and are soldered to 3 out of the 4 mounting pins. if any of these wires are shorting out or disconnected, the gauge will malfunction.

- take the gauge and flip upside down
- temp gauge has 1 resistor (blue) and 1 diode (copper)
- fuel gauge has 2 resistors, no diodes
- 1 wire should be attached to bottom mounting pin (letter E for EMPTY)
- 1 wire should be attached to pin holding both resistors (half tank)
- 1 wire should be attached to the stand-alone ground pin (no mounting bracket)

Hope that helps!

CLICK on the following LINK. It has all the Diagrams for your Belt that you will need.
If you would: Before Clicking let me know if this helped you, or if you have any additional information or questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.com!
Thanks!

http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_information/year/1995/make/honda/model/civic/1995_honda_civic_drive_belt_routing_diagram.htm

this is the blower motor wire schematic. if the blower motor is getting power. your problem is most likley the power resistor.

Are you sure you have correct timing? its definetly a fule problem, if timing is good then turn your key to the on position and try to listin for the fule pump to prime. While the key is in on position go to fuel rail, there is a valve on fule rail called sharader valve. Get a small screw driver and press valve in to check if car has fule pressure. if pressure is present then it is incorrect timing or possible bad cam sensor.

• Hi, I have uploaded some diagrams from the manual that indicate what the lights and gauges on the dash are for and where they are located. You can look at the diagrams and see which light is on your dash and tell me the name of it and I can further assist you.

• Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa.