20 Most Recent 2003 GMC Sierra - Page 7 Questions & Answers

The wiring diagrams for your 2003 GMC Sierra power window circuits are copyrighted material and cannot be posted here. However, I can describe the driver's power window circuit to you.Battery voltage is provided to the driver's window (master) switch via the ORANGE wire at PIn #2 on the switch connector which comes from the 25 Amp Left Window Circuit breaker located in the fuse block on the left side of the dash.There is a logic module located inside of the master switch which controls the "Auto Down" feature for the driver's window. When the switch is operated in either the "UP" or "DOWN" position, power and ground is supplied to the window lift motor via the BROWN wire (Pin #1, Connector 2) and the DARK BLUE wire (Pin #3, Connector 2) Thease wires will switch polarity dependin on whether the switch is commanding UP or DOWN.The schematics show that the ground circuit for the driver's window motor is supplied internally by the driver's window switch module. It is most likely grounded inside the door panel itself - the schematics do not specify. To check for ground, you can test continuity to ground on BOTH the BROWN and the BLUE wires by back-probing them with the switch electrical connector plugged in and the window control switch in the NEUTRAL position. They should both have ground.When the switch is operated, one will remain ground while the other switches to power.

On a 2003 Sierra the blower motor is under the passenger side of the dash. There will be a plastic tirm pannel that will need to be removed to gain access to the blower motor.For more info on diagnosing a blower motor that does not work click here I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

You will need to replace the turn signal switch assmbly, it is defective, nothing else causes this problem.

It is running a test cycle and getting stuck. There are a couple of options. Disconnect the battery, then drive the vehicle around without using the AC for 10 min, if the AC is defaulted to come on after a battery interuption, then shut the car down then turn it on again. You are trying to get the electronic actuator to reset and resume proper function. Another option is to try this: Start the car, adjust the pax side full hot, drivers full cold, wait 30 sec then shut car down, then start car back up and reverse the settings, pax full cold, drivers full hot. In both solutions, the vent actuators are stuck at either the full open or full closed, so you are trying to get it to 'self check' and allow them to resume proper function. After two years, I simply removed them altogether since I live where it is hot an only need cold.works just fine....

if the blower motor motor is working then its a blocked heater core or a faulty shut off valve ,i would need to get my head under the bonnet and then the dash to find the fault to be honest

check inside temp sensor,it has a fan that pulls air thru it.sometime they make noise. place your ear to it. usually is above the drivers side in headlining.

you need to rent the tool, the pulley is pressed on, autozone rents the tool and you get the money back when you return it

no there r no servicable parts on the air bag system...u need to return the truck to a qualified service repair center for the repair....they will be able to pull air bag codes an then properly repair ur air bag system

seems to be un related, however look for blown fuses, or check to see if you knocked the ac compressor wire harness off.

That is basically not a fixable item, you need to replace the window regulator. Most of the time they will have the option to come with the motor. Even though it probably still works, I would recommend replacing it as a unit as the motor may fail before the new regulator goes out.

You can try looking for a blown fuse.look in owners manual under (fuses) AC..It could also be a vacuum lines that control the heating/AC unit

try junk yards .com
or if you no anyone with a garage you can make one
or just cut the cable and put the spare in the bed

I would replace your vehicle speed sensor to start out with.

Either the fuel pressure is too small and the fuel reaches the cylinder in a too little quantity or the injectors are not commanded by the ECM.
Ideally you should have the error codes read - it will give you a pretty good idea on what has failed in your car. If you don't have access to a code reader, then all you can do is to check:
1 - the fuel pressure: by disconnecting the main fuel line where it enters the injector ramp, putting it in a 2 liter bottle, putting the contact and measuring the time it takes to fill the bottle - more than 30 second and you have a problem, check the filter and replace the pump.
2 - the presence of the trigger signals at the injectors: you ask someone to turn the engine while you measure it with a voltmeter - less than 6 volts and you have a failure of the ECM. In that case the reading of the codes becomes mandatory, there are other serious faults in there.