Best thing too do is take vehicle too orilley's parts store and have them run a code check. Computer can have stored code and check engine light not come on. And they do not charge for this service.
Sound like an airflow issue. But not sure if that car has a mass air flow sensor. Clean intake with carb cleaner or seafoam. I use seafoam for these issues. on throttle body unplug largest hose that has suction when running pour very slowly 6 oz seafoam into funnel connected with hose then shut car off let sit 15-30 minutes then in an open area run the car for 10 minutes revving engine to clean out the carbon. Then drive high acceleration 55+ for 10-20 miles or until smoke clears from tail pipe.
obviously you can check with auto parts stores, and vendors selling new old stock car parts on eBay. if those sources come up with nothing then you are going to have to do a google search. i am sure there must be folks selling them in the UK, and you can always buy a new cable which fits something else, take it and your broken old one to a metal fabrication shop and have them build you a silk purse out of a sow's ear.
Put the coolant directly into the radiator until it's full. Start the engine and run it, watching the fluid level. Keep the coolant within one inch of the neck. Fill the reservoir about half way when the radiator is full.
Attach the spark plug wires in the firing order. The firing order should be in your owner's manual. It also might have a diagram next to your ignition coil pack. The ports on the coil pack are shown by the diagram.
ok, is it losing fluid? check the floor board by the passenger seat, up under the dash, is it wet? Your heater-core may be shot. The core is tucked up behind your glove compartment. If it's plugged, water won't circulate and won't be able to be cooled, causing it to overheat.
Do you have a Vac leak? easy way to find is to let run and open hood.. buy a can of starting fluid.. sprey around the Vac hoses and when the engine RPM picks up you have found your Vac leak.. hope it helps
THe drive belt tensioner and the crankshaft pulley are under the power steering pump. also, the timing cover and timing chains/components on the inside of the engine.
Do you know how to test automotive electrical circuits using a DMM - digital multi-meter ?
Principles of Operation
The headlamp switch is supplied power at all times from the smart junction box (SJB). When the headlamps switch is placed in the headlamps ON position, power is routed to the multifunction switch. Depending on the position of the multifunction switch, power is routed through one of two circuits to the SJB. If the multifunction switch is in the high beam position, power is routed through SJB fuse 12 (15A) and then on to the high beam headlamps. If the multifunction switch is in the low beam position, power is routed through SJB fuses 11 (10A) and 15 (10A) to the LH and RH headlamps, respectively. Power to the multifunction switch is available at all times for the flash-to-pass feature.
Is there B+ voltage at fuse's # 11 & 15 with headlamps on an the multifunction switch is in the low beam position ? If not check for B+ voltage at the multifunction switch . Free wiring diagrams here
http://www.bbbind.com/free-tsb Enter your vehicle info. year , make , model an engine . Under system click on lighting then under subsystem click headlamps . Click the search button then the blue link .
Basic Electricity for Service Techs Ohm law Current Flow Opens ShortsElectric Testing Techniques You Need to Know
