1992 Ford F250 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Below is a link to the wiring diagram on a F-250 with 5.0L (302ci). Best of luck.
Greg

Wiring Diagram Schematic 1987 F-250

take it to the tranny shop,(someone you can trust)

When light goes out glow plugs still heating so count 15 seconds after ligh goes out the crank on key

Compression test , do cylinder leak down test. mechanical problem maybe . How many miles on the engine ? burnt valve

i would be checking the shifter cable adjustment first see how that goes goodluck

its more than likely the valve block internal sticking valve or incorrectly rebuilt

the cat converter is a very good possibility run he fault codes instead of wasting money on guess replacements

Check motor and transmission mounts and U-joints. don-ohio

That is telling you that the TCM has codes stored that need to be accessed. This requires a professional level scan tool to access the transmission module. A generic code reader will not do the trick.

You probably mixed the wires. Go and ask on a Ford forum or search for the repair manual image for the correct connection order for the wires.

That could be it but it couldbe coilpaxks or your distributor rotor button clogged fuel filter do you have a chexk engine light

The manual is right. Your transmission is run by vacuum and pressure from the pump. What's it doing?

You need to check the glow plug system. Check for power from the glow plug relay.

If it has a clutch, check the clutch switch.

Blower motor resistor is bad could be outside by the blower motor under the hood unless blower motor is under the dash it plugs in the box has 2 screws . If the blower motor is squeaking or growling that's probably what caused it I would change the blower motor and the resistor if not it will do the same thing again.

Could be a dead battery's or solenoid should have 2 batteries one or both could be bad solenoid is on the in fender you should see hot wires if it's bad sometimes you can turn the key on and jump the solenoid with pliers.

It could be the tank selector switch mine when bad and neither tank would work. The switch gets burned up inside. If that's not it could be the fuel pump both tanks have a fuel pump in them. I would try the switch first it's only $14 the fuel pumps $130

Make sure the filter is clean and you have the correct fluid in it. Also check that the shift cable adjustment is correct.

check the grounding of the lamp sockets and that you are getting voltage to them. trace back along the wires until you find voltage...this is where your problem lies.

Not sure about your '92 F250 but many fuel systems sense the pressure and don't run continuously but only when fuel is used, clicking a few times when the ignition is turned on and pressure is present. Your message was truncated so the rest of it is not visible. Most fuel pumps use the chassis for the negative side of the power and this grounding point may be corroded. I would loosen and re-tighten any points that may serve as ground.