Top 10 1991 Ford F250 Questions & Answers

Check the fuse under the e-brake

Yes you can use a piece of wire on the Diagnostic Link Connector and the Self Test Input connector.
The DLC may or maynot be labeled, but it is the top right position you connect to the STI to get the codes. Can be read with the Check Engine Light. I would suggest getting a service manual from a parts store to help with this diagnostic, it has the codes list.

The E4OD is a complicated tranny and unfortunately prone to many problems. There are three shift controlling solenoids inside the tranny mounted to the valve body. Without being able to actually drive to evaluate it makes it very hard to give you a starting point for trouble shooting. I have rebuilt many of the E4OD transmissions over the years and found them prone to many problems. That's why Ford quit using them. A tranny shop can hook up to two different line pressure ports to evaluate the problem. But, be warned they are going to recomend a rebuilt be installed. You will be looking at around $ 3300.00 dollars for the rebuilt unit.

I must be missing something. It should be fairly straightforward. It is pretty much just unpinning the brake caliper and hanging it so that it's weight is supported and removing the brake rotor. Put down the Chilton manual that you are using and go to the autozone.com website and register the truck. It's free and will give you access to an online repair manual. The steps for changing the brake rotors can be found there. There are pics and diagrams and the steps for removing the caliper/pads and brake rotor can be found there. (unless I am missing something) Hope this helped and best wishes.

the main ignitin should be fused. check under the hood near the starter selanoid there will be wires attached to one of the large terminals. these are fusible links. check the wires for power

check to see if the computer is getting proper voltage on the yellow wire if that is not it ckeck the large red wiresmy dads truck had this problem last year the yellow wire was defective in the harnes the tack and the transmission work off the computer trust me it is a simple fix run a new wire from the solinoid on the pasenger side to the computer relay on the driverside and replace the relay too

Use a test light and check to see if there is battery voltage present at the "Pos" (+) or positive side of the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position if no battery voltage is present at the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position then there is a power supply or wiring problem to the ignition coil, and if there is battery voltage at the "Pos" side of the ignition coil, then with the test light on the "Neg" (-) or negative side of the ignition coil crank the engine over. The test light should flash or pulse indicating that there is a dwell signal to the ignition coil, and if there is battery voltage to the "Pos" side of the ignition coil and there is a dwell signal to the "Neg" side of the ignition coil, and there is still no spark from the ignition coil, then the ignition coil is faulty. If there is battery voltage to the "Pos" side of the ignition coil, and there is no dwell signal to the "Neg" side of the ignition coil, then the Ignition module, or the pick-up coil/stator would be the most likely cause of the problem.

Check to see if that ignition system actually used an ignition module on the side of the distributor, and if the distributor does have an ignition module mounted on the side of it, then it is most likely faulty and those modules were prone to failure from excessive engine heat. Also, remove the distributor cap and inspect the connector from the pick-up coil/stator where the ignition module connects to it, and if the connector is dark or burnt looking then also replace the pick-up coil/stator or the entire distributor. You might need a Ford ignition module wrench to remove the ignition module from the side of the distributor and most auto part stores will have one for only a few dollars.

Here are some images to assist you and notice the white connector on the ignition pick-up coil/stator and when that connector turns dark or burnt looking then it is faulty.

Crack all the injector lines at the injectors and crank the engine until fuel starts coming out and then tighten all of them back up.

No it will not it will actually help the performance of your truck the catalytic converter is most likely clogged or blown out by this point anyways.

Light Duty Models

1. Raise the vehicle so that the wheel to be worked on is clear of the floor and install jackstands under the vehicle.
   
2. Remove the wheel. Remove the three retaining nuts and remove the brake drum. It may be necessary to back off the brake shoe adjustment in order to remove the brake drum. This is because the drum might be grooved or worn from being in service for an extended period of time.
   
3. Before installing a new brake drum, be sure to remove any protective coating with brake cleaner or a suitable fast-drying degreaser.
   
4. Install the brake drum in the reverse order of removal and adjust the brakes.
   

Heavy Duty

1. Raise the vehicle and install jackstands.
   
2. Remove the wheel. Loosen the rear brake shoe adjustment.
   
3. Remove the rear axle retaining bolts and lockwashers, axle shaft, and gasket.
   
4. Remove the wheel bearing locknut, lockwasher, and adjusting nut.
   
5. Remove the hub and drum assembly from the axle.
   
6. Remove the brake drum-to-hub retaining screws, bolts or bolts and nut. Remove the brake drum from the hub.
   

To install:

1. Place the drum on the hub and attach it to the hub with the attaching nuts and bolts.
   
2. Place the hub and drum assembly on the axle and start the adjusting nut.
   
3. Adjust the wheel bearing nut and install the wheel bearing lockwasher and locknut.
   
4. Install the axle shaft with a new gasket and install the axle retaining bolts and lockwashers.
   
5. Install the wheel and adjust the brake shoes. Remove the jackstands and lower the vehicle.
   

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