1987 Dodge W150 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

You need to remove & rebuild the steering boxI would have done that first Then work my way to other parts away from itYou adjust it after you rebuild it

Could be a short. Have you checked the voltage at the battery with the car running? Is it over 14 volts?

Please see my tip at http://www.fixya.com/cars/r5925550-dead_battery_troubleshooting . These are generic instructions. If you get stuck or need specific instructions for your car, please get back to me with model, year and engine info.

Check the ground.

OK. I'm sure any auto parts store will have one.

You need to bypass voltage regulator to be certain alternator is charging properly. When you full field alternator it eliminates voltage regulator. If it indeed is good it will overcharge. If it overcharges as it should when you bypass/full field alternator then the regulator, or its connection or the place it attaches to is rusty & wont conduct a ground.

if you are not getting any fire from the coil check the ignition resistor mounted on fire wall. you can have someone to turn key over to start and u can take test light and check both sides of resistor . if no fire on side going to coil (replace it). hope this will help!!!!

Remove the bottom pan and check the rear band. It might be so loose the apply strut fell out and is laying in the bottom of the pan.

ballast resistor

You may have to access a Chilton repair manual for this. However, you can consider the following: https://workshop-manuals.com/dodge/w150_1/2_ton_pickup_4wd/v8-318_5.2l_vin_t__2-bbl/powertrain_management/ignition_system/firing_order/component_information/specifications/

Check the battery + wire at the alternator to be sure it is 'hot'. If not, the alternator can not charge. If you suspect a short, check all the fusible links. Pull on each one, as I have seen many that have a burned or broken conductor but the outer insulation is not burned open. (You can buy fusible links and fusible wire to make your own) Ammeters on your vintage Dodge are notorious for failing, and for being inaccurate. Just in case yours failed internally, jump the 2 wires together, (The gauge will then not work), but if it charges now you know its open. But check out the alt power feed first, as well as the fusible links and I bet you'll find the problem.

Well if you are sure it is the carby, then your float has probably leaked and sunk, opening the needle valve too much. But I think not. In carburetted vehicles this behaviour is usually due to bad engine timing. You then try and try to get the engine to fire, and all that cranking floods the engine instead. Check the engine timing, plugs and leads.

be more specific

Have to remove the wheel hub bearing- to get clearancefor a ball joint press ( bottom joint)Many very good You Tube Videos on thatin repair shops

???? need more info?? vehicle??

got to be ignition module ,check for feed to it and if you have a feed then check the earths and if ok just change it ,these thing can just stop when you turn engine off ,never seen one go whilst being driven .

located on the firewall near the center, it is white and ceramic

sounds like the timing is off, try loosening the distributor while its running and gently turn it to the left or the right until it runs good and tighten it back down. you will need a distributor wrench or you will have to make a wrench to do this. Warning: be very gentle with the distributor or you can bend the shaft that goes down into the motor.

Sounds vacuum related

EGR Valve or vacuum leak

TPS Sensor ?

you need to check your electrical system with a digital volt meter-when the vehicle sits overnight, the battery should read about 12.5 volts before startup. You should get the same (or very close) reading at the large post on the rear of the alternator, then start it up. Readings should go to close to 15 volts, and gradually drop down to close to 14 volts at idle, again at the battery and the rear of the alternator. If it is much less than 14 (like 13) or more than 15 (like 16) you have a problem either with the voltage regulator or the ecm.

Sounds like a fuel supply problem. Does it pop through the carberator as it it is dying, like a lean back fire? If you drove it up a hill would it die before 35 or 40 mph? If the fuel demand excedes the fuel supply the engine will die, but would restart after cranking the engine for awhile. Possibly a plugged fuel filter, fuel line, rotten fuel hose, ( sucking air ) or tired fuel pump. Hope this helps.