1978 Chevrolet C1500 - Page 4 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

GM only has one V8 firing order as far as I know. That is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. The distributor runs clockwise and #1 should be at 5 o'clock. Hope this helps.

Starter - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Starter removal on some models may necessitate the removal of the front support which runs from the corner of the frame to the front crossmember. If so, loosen the mounting bolt which attaches the support the frame first, then remove the crossmember bolt and swing the support out of the way.

The starters on some engines require the addition of shims to provide proper clearance between the starter pinion gear and the flywheel. These shims are available in 0.015 in. sizes from Chevrolet dealers. Flat washers can be used if shims are unavailable.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise and support the vehicle safely using jackstands.
   

If access to the wiring is difficult, the starter may be partially lowered before disconnecting it, but be careful not to stretch or damage the wiring.

1. Disconnect all wiring from the starter solenoid. Replace each nut as the connector is removed, as thread sizes differ from connector to connector. Note or tag the wiring positions for installation purposes.
2. If equipped, remove the front bracket from the starter. On engines with a solenoid heat shield, remove the front bracket upper bolt and detach the bracket from the starter.
3. Remove the starter mounting bolts. If a starter shim tab can be seen protruding out from between the mating surfaces of the starter and the block, remove the outer bolt first, then loosen the inner bolt. With the outer bolt removed and the inner loosened, most shims may be grasped and pulled from the top of the starter at this point. Once the bolts are removed, lower the starter front end first, and remove the unit from the car.

If no shim tab could be seen, yet shims or flat washers fall from the starter as it is withdrawn, stop and attempt to determine their locations. If possible, gather the shims for reuse during assembly. Shims without tabs must be positioned on the starter prior to installation, but the bolts may be held through the starter assembly in order to hold the shims in position.


To install:

1. If flat washers or shims without tabs were found on removal, position them on top of the starter using the mounting bolts to hold them in position.
2. Position the starter to the engine block and loosely install the mounting bolts. If tabbed shims were withdrawn during removal, position them before the outer mounting bolt is threaded.
3. Once the starter and shims are properly positioned, tighten the two mounting bolts to 25-35 ft. lbs. (34-47 Nm).
4. If equipped, install the front bracket and/or heat shield to the starter assembly.
5. Attach the starter wiring to the solenoid, as noted during removal.
6. Remove the jackstands and carefully lower the vehicle.
7. Connect the negative battery cable.

STARTER OVERHAUL
Drive Replacement

1. Disconnect the field coil straps from the solenoid.
   
2. Remove the through-bolts, and separate the commutator end frame, field frame assembly, drive housing, and armature assembly from each other.
   

On diesel starter, remove the insulator from the end frame. The armature on the diesel starter remains in the drive end frame. On diesel starters, remove the shift lever pivot bolt. ON the diesel 25 MT starter only, remove the center bearing screws and remove the drive gear housing from the armature shaft. The shift lever and plunger assembly will now fall away from the starter clutch.

1. Slide the two piece thrust collar off the end of the armature shaft.
2. Slide a suitably sized metal cylinder, such as a standard 1 / 2 in. pipe coupling, or an old pinion, onto the shaft so that the end of the coupling or pinion butts up against the edge of the pinion retainer.
3. Support the lower end of the armature securely on a soft surface, such as a wooden block, and tap the end of the coupling or pinion, driving the retainer towards the armature end of the snapring.
4. Remove the snapring from the groove in the armature shaft with a pair of pliers. Then, slide the retainer and starter drive from the shaft.

To assemble:

1. Lubricate the drive end of the armature shaft with silicone lubricant and then slide the starter drive onto the shaft with the pinion facing outward. Slide the retainer onto the shaft with the cupped surface facing outward.
2. Again support the armature on a soft surface, with the pinion at the upper end. Center the snapring on the top of the shaft (use a new snapring if the original was damaged during removal). Gently place a block of wood flat on top of the snapring so as not to move it from a centered position. Tap the wooden block with a hammer in order to force the snapring around the shaft. Then, slide the ring down into the snapring groove.
3. Lay the armature down flat on the surface you're working on. Slide the retainer close up on to the shaft and position it and the thrust collar next to the snapring. Using two pairs of pliers on opposite sides of the shaft, squeeze the thrust collar and the retainer together until the snapring is forced into the retainer.
4. Lube the drive housing bushing with a silicone lubricant. Then, install the armature and the clutch assembly into the drive housing, engaging the solenoid shift lever yoke with the clutch, and positioning the front of the armature shaft into the bushing.
   

On non-diesel starters the shift lever may be installed in the drive gear housing first. On the 25 MT diesel starter only, install the center bearing screws and the shift lever pivot bolt, and tighten securely.

1. Apply a sealing compound approved for this application onto the drive housing; then position the field frame around the armatures shaft and against the drive housing. Work slowly and carefully to prevent damaging the starter brushes.
2. Lubricate the bushing in the commutator end frame with a silicone lubricant, place the leather brake washer onto the armature shaft, and then slide the commutator end frame over the shaft and into position against the field frame. Line up the bolt holes, then install and tighten the through-bolts.
3. Reconnect the field coil straps to the MOTOR terminal of the solenoid.
   

If replacement of the starter drive fails to cure improper engagement of starter pinion to flywheel, there are probably defective parts in the solenoid and/or shift lever. The best procedure would probably be to take the assembly to a shop where a pinion clearance check can be made by energizing the solenoid on a test bench. If the pinion clearance is incorrect, disassemble the solenoid and shift lever, inspect, and replace worn parts.

Hope this help.

Are you getting fuel?
Is the timing correct?

I'm not absolutely sure for the 1978 L6, however the
Standard for most L6's:
Firing Order:
1-5-3-6-2-4
Cylinders:
(back of engine)
........6
........5
........4
........3
........2
........1
(front of engine)
Distributor:
......(back)
.....6....2..(+)-screw
3..............4
(+).5....1
.....(front)

Let me know if this helped...

check for stuck advance weights in dist. Check accel pump in carb

sometimes need to remove hub and clean grease out and lightly regrease. or may need to replace hubs

Try setting the timing several degrees less that what it calls for. The car may run a little sluggish, but it might have a better chance of passing. You can move it back where it belongs after the test.

linkage is bent or fork is broke in transfer case

Get your oil changed and have them use the engine cleaner. It sounds like you have a deposit built up your engline, meanwhile add some STP to your fuel tank next time you fuel up.

Disconnect the fuel (have a round object the size of the inside diameter of the line so you can plug it off) and unbolt the pump from the block. Notice how the arm slides out. When you reinstall the new pump make sure the pump arm goes under the cam shaft or it will not work. Clean the old gasget off of the block before reinstalling the new one. reconnect the fuel. The engine may have to turn over several times before fuel pressure is suffecient to start the engine.

looking in from the front of the radiator the drivers side bank to your right is 1-3-5-7 and the passenger side to your left is 2-4-6-8 if its a V-8 if its a V-6 remove 7 and 8 off of above number sequence

does it have a/c,,not hard to do ,,pull glove box,,there are some screws be hide it u need to get out,&any other that hold the heater core cover & blower assembly on

yes , sounds like idle control sensor

Most likely it was an alarm that was installed at one time of the trucks life from previous owner's. There was nothing there from factor installed when the truck was built. Good luck and keep me posted on your old school ride and please rate.

there is a little cord that goes from the column to the indicator. they get old and tear. we have used dental floss and super glue to replace them on our 76 blazer and our 84 jimmy

Hi There
I have found this site for you so you can see by pics.hope this helps and let me know.http://www.carburetion.com/CarbID/HolleyID.htm
Thank you for writing to fix ya.
Best Regards Richard

Manual/automatic?? If automatic your torque convertor is probably going bad or your clutch packs in the tranny. If manual your clutch is gripping too much or not releasing properly

i case you are unaware their are 2 flaher units on this truck one for ts swith and one for the 4 ways

Not sure what "choke down" means. If you mean run really rich and smoke black, like the choke is stuck, look at the choke linkage. If you mean lay down and give no power, but not smoke black and not sound farty and blubbery, that is likely not a choke problem.

Look at the fuel filter. They can be mostly clogged but pass enough fuel to get by under most situations; also their internal gunk load can shift, causing a filter that was serving okay to be clogged at a moment's notice.

Check the gas cap and the tank vent / evaporative emissions system - if air can't get in to replace the fuel you removed from the tank, pretty soon your fuel pump is trying to **** fuel out of a tank that is already under a vacuum.

If those two are OK, throw an ignition coil in it. They are cheap and easy enough, and a failing one will intermittently lay down and give weak sparks. If you can catch the truck in its failure mode, try loosening one of the plug wires (either end) and holding it a half inch away from its previous mount. You should get fat bright blue sparks jumping the gap, snapping as they fly; if they won't jump that far, or sound or look wimpy, your coil is suspect.

If you change your coil and the problem goes away, give the truck a tune-up - cap, rotor, plugs, and wires, and also change the ignition module (an extra $20 for a cheapie.) Coils don't die of old age; they die of overwork, like trying to push very high voltage through high-resistance spark plug wires and across worn-out plugs. The ignition module has to handle all of the power that goes through the coil, and if the coil is stressed, so is the module. They can fail without warning, stranding you until the module cools down enough (30 minutes to six hours) that it will run again.

are the cables good and not corroded as well as just for facts although something may be new ,....they come defective as well just a note . but have you tried using a jumper wire to ensure it works