20 Most Recent 1998 Chevrolet Prizm - Page 10 Questions & Answers

It doesn't have one. You have to remove a plug near the passenger side driveshaft and fill the transmission until fluid runs from the hole with the engine running.

You dont need a diagram, you have the car in front of you. Since you dont say what model, year ect. that you have I dont know what to tell you. You need to find out which parts/ cable is seized and replace them, you can buy some cables aftermarket, but most will be dealer parts.

Hi,

This is quite tricky. Even Haynes manual have incorrect information regarding this particular model and year.

In order to remove the evaporator housing much or all of the dashboard needs to come out.There's a black plastic housing that seems to extend in one piece past the opening created by the glove compartment.

The manual reflects the correct procedure for earlier models (prior to an apparent design change). Yes, the procedure is considerably more involved with the later design as compared to the earlier one. Even for experienced technicians, challenges exist. In considering this undertaking, it's crucial to be absolutely sure of the diagnoses. We can send you additional information for doing the procedure yourself, but the information is intended for experienced technicians and may not provide the step-by-step information that you may require.

I would recommend this to be taken care by an experienced mechanic who have worked on this model and year.

Good Luck!!

Thanks!!

I believe it's either 1 1/8 or 1 1/4

Seems like a huge issue huh?! First have the battery checked 2. check all connections for corrosion around battery area. I'm assuming this just started? 3. if all other things check out good, have the charging system tested for no less than 13.5 volts with all accesories on. Replace the alternator as necessary. Let me know what you find and I'll be happy to continue to advise.

the banging on the dash prabably caused the radio issue. Its hard to say what exactly is the issue because one would need to see which lights are the issue and from there the wiring diagrams would need to be accessed.

If this is just a loose wire plan on about 1hr diagnostic and repair time. The proce will be based on what the reapir shop charges per hour. Between $70 upwards to $150 so be sure to call around.

Or you can go to either alldata or mitchell1diy online and for a small fee have access to the same info a repair shop would have.

Your right about the wires and or the coil distbutor cap or distbutor rotor, but the problem doesn't have to be the ingtion at all but it's best to check out the system first as it's the number one cause of this kind of problem. Once the ingition system has been checked out ( don't forget the sparkplugs ) If their worn out the standard gap will be too big. If their foulled they will have junk on them that can be scraped off. If one of the plgs looks different than the others indicates a problem in the cyclinder that that plug came out of. ( make sure that you keep them and the wires in ordr so you can tell there the problem is) If the plugs look good and all the same, the exhaust system could be clogged up. only do this after the plugs and wires check good and any problems are corrected. The exhaust may be very quiet and no pulse can be felt at the end of the tailpipe. If it has a good sound and there's a steady pop of each cyclinder playing the same then move on to something else. The check engine light could be on or be coming on during some driving situations. If it is drive down to the auto parts store and have them check the car for codes and have them tell you what they think of them. Remember these guys can be very well informed but they don't have to be, ( they are working in a store instead of on the line making the big money that mechanics that know what their doing make) once the check engine light is cleared of it's indicated problems it still may run like you say. This car is well known to skip the timing belt. Loosen the distrubutor after marking where its at now and rotate it till the engine seems to run faster and take the gas quicker. If doing this seems to pick things up alot, tighten the distbuter in the new runs good and take the car for a drive. if it runs good or even better then ever your not done. The timing needs to be set with a timing light and needs to be checked in the position that you started out at, both. If the new setting checks out to be right or close to it and the old position seems to be about 16 degrees slower than what you just came up with then it's likly that the cam timing skipped a tooth. It'll still run OK except it won't be runninng as designed and when it skips another tooth it may shut down or worse blow up as the valves hit the pistons and break everything up. If this seems to be the way it's going then you need to check the cam timing. put the engine on the timing mark at zero on the lower crank pulley and the remove the upper timing cover. It's plastic and you might have to take the valve cover off to get the cover off. The upper gear has a chisel mark on the edge of the gear near the teeth of the timing belt gear. Make sure it lines up with the mark on the head, you may have to turn the engine a whole turn as the cam turns half speed of the crank so you can see the mark line up if it does'nt remove the belt and replace it lining up the marks before putting the belt all the way back on. then turn the distbuter back to the place you found it and it'll start right up and run fine? Maybe not if it turned too far the car could have a burnt valve or a bent one where it hit the piston sometime or other. Pulling spark plug wires one at a time the bad cyclinder can be found and the nessary repairs can then be outlined A compression test can find all the cyclinders evenly low on compression normal is 150 PSI. that sort of tells that the cam is out of time. One cyclinder low tells of the bad parts, you hope thats not it.

I would check the altenator, wiring, starter draw.
when you try to start the car. Turn your lights on first then start the car. The lights should get brighter with the car running. The altenator should be charging okay. Check your battery ternimals for corrosion , clean them off. The age of the battery may not be able to hold a charge. I would have the vehicle checked at the local repair shop.

The primary O2 is located in the exhaust manifold, before the catalytic conveter and looks like this;

If I remember correctly, it is only reachable from under the vehicle. A quick search of the exhaust system will tell if you can remove from the top or bottom.

I believe you have a CV joint going out. I have found it just about as reasonable and easier to install to buy the whole shaft. Try to locate which side is making that noise then jack up that side, be sure to block it good, and grab that shaft or turn the wheel back and forth to see if there isn't play in it.

Hi! Please do check the fuse box and see if there are busted fuses. Pay good attention to the horn and radio fuses and replace them for it may be faulty. Hope this helps. Have a nice day.

CHEVROLET PRIZM - L4 1.8L 110ci GAS FI N 8
Belt Routing Diagram Multiple Accessory, w/o A.C.




Belt Routing Diagram Multiple Accessory, w/A.C.



Good luck.

youneed a new window motor cost anywhere from a couple of hundred to a couple grand

The power door locks are not a real factor when replacing door handles. You do not mention if you are replacing inner or outer handles. They are basicly the same to replace. You will have to remove the inner door panel, then for an inner handle you will see how it is bolted to the inner door. Unbolt the handle then turn it as you remove it so you can get to the rod for the latch coming off the handle take clip off and remove rod. Put new handle in place in reverse order. The outer handle also has a rod that you have to remove then unbolt handle and remove thru the outside of the door. reverse to install new handle. reinstall inner door panel and your ready to go.

Check your owners manual. It should give you the location of the fuse box.

My first thought was the combination switch but two things are telling me you either have a dead short somewhere or the alternator is overcharging or not charging. If the alternator is overcharging, this will, in turn, cause the battery to boil. Now, your battery has no 12 volts in it. Or, in other words, no amperage behind it. This will cause your car lights to die.
Be sure to check the main grounds in the vehicle. If you check your service manual, when the battery light and/or ABS and brake lights come on, usually you are not charging.
Do a hydrometer test on the battery as well as a charging system test.

That does sound like a linkage adjustment problem.

If that does not work, I'd try a fluid change and filter. But your diagnostics with pulling on the gear shifter is a pretty good indication of a linkage problem.

the front wheel bearings might be sealed in the hub. I'm not sure what year your car is but this could be the case. you can all your local parts store to find out. if they don't list the bearing itself, then you'll have to replace the hub. if the bearing is available it can be pressed in manually. there may even be a tool you can rent from the parts store.

disconect battery & pull fuse that controls air bag & wait 15 minutes (this will disable the airbag
There are two torx screws on the back of the steering wheel, turn your wheel to access them & remove. Pull off horn/airbag,easy does it. Disconect the wires on back & place in safe place
Remove nut holding on wheel with 13/16 socket. Pull wheel off with steerig wheel pulller.
Remove snap ring. Move Coil pack out of way.
Remove small metal band that holds on the metal star looking thing. You will need to use a steering wheel lock plate removal tool.
Now you have access to switch. remove a few torx bolts & it will be loose. Disconect the harness & pull through.

Check the fuel pump relay, i am not sure but i think there are two of them. Check the wire harness too, mice may have chewed in to the wires causing a shot in the system. 
Good luck and hope this helps.