1995 Dodge Neon - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Usually a bad water pump will cause the engine to run hot with or without the ac being involved. The most common cause of overheating with the ac on is not enough air flow thru the radiator.

Its normally on the valve cover.

If your talking about coolant temp sensor, it should be close to thermostat housing, in picture. If I read picture correctly? If your talking about any sensor for hvac, that would be different. I haven't looked at that.

try checking your connectors again .sounds like a bad pin at he ecm when the problem comes back test the voltage going from crank sensor to ecm . an old pinched wire will do the same off n on also

code p 0340 refers to cam shaft (CMP)sensor A bank 1---circuit malfunction===causes --wiring---CMP sensor ---ECM indications are faulty harness connections , faulty wiring (stopping the starting indications ) and lastly replace the sensor

indicates that the cam servo/solenoid is faulty and is not maintaining the correct valve timing for the rpm if the valve timing is out from a skipped tooth it would be rough from the start , not run fine until it warms up

Darn, just sold my '95 neon. I never had to bother with the electronics, it always worked. That da da noise sounds like must come from some relay. Come to think of it, Chrysler makes had a kind of "main relay" called the Auto Shutdown Relay or ASD relay. It's purpose was as a main relay for sending power to necessary things to keep the engine running-like power to the ignition coil, and power to the fuel injectors, and to the fuel pump. This relay is triggered or controlled by the computer. If you have a relay chattering and it is not a bad relay, then could also be a poor positive battery connection, or even a poor ground too. If that chattering sound is from the starter solenoid (on the starter motor), then you either have a weak battery or a poor connection ... or a bad solenoid.

First have battery checked at shop that knows what they are doing.

I don't think the cat would cause a problem with the transmission. On a '95 neon, you should be able to remove the cat altogether and drive the car normally-it would only be loud, but it should drive. That's why I wanted to ask what happens if you rev the engine when it is in park? Can it go up to and hold steady about 2500 rpm? That would be about like driving at 45 mph or close to that. Also, I just realized you put the old cat back on? Maybe it got plugged up. A restricted exhaust could shut the engine off, too. I do almost all my own repairs, but exhaust work is something I leave to a well equipped shop. Pretty hard to do laying on your back, eh?

2003 neon shaking after changing both right motor mounts ...

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check the connections behind the cluster module or you may have a bad fuse

Try this:

if you cut a hole you could get exhaust gas in the car and when you drive on gravel roods you will get dust in car not recommended

go to the junkyard and look at a fuel tank for a neon and you'll know. or cut a large hole in trunk floor

Will it start when you give it a jump or install a good battery? If it does the problem is your alternator. What most likely happened is the alternator quit working while you were driving and the car was relying on the battery directly to keep it going in which the battery completely lost power and shut the car off.

Not likely. More likely is that the starter, or the starter solenoid is bad. This is the way it works. Turn key, car checks to see if all safety items are OK (in neutral or park, brake pedal depressed, etc), if OK then sends signal to starter solenoid to engage(it's basically just a magnetic switch), which allows the full power of the battery to turn the starter and engage the bendix, which engages the flywheel and turns the motor. If any of those things are bad, the car don't start. If it's the starter, the bendix will make a metallic click or thunk. If it's the bendix, the starter turns, but not he motor. If it's a fault in the electrical system, then no starter, and no bendix. If the battery is weak, the bendix may or may not click. To repair; 1; starter can be rebuilt, including the bendix. moderately expensive if done by shop. Inexpensive if you can do it yourself. Warning - it's a PITA to get it out! 2; selenoid can be replaced. Usually inexpensive, except for shop charges. It sets on top of the starter. 3; If electrical; this can get expensive as it is labor intensive to track down the fault, even if the part is usually inexpensive.

did you flush the system before replacing pump and thermostat? Check also the temp sending unit

The only difference that comes to mind is that the motor mount may be broke, when in reverse it rocks one way and keeps running. When in forward it rocks the other way and lets something short out, or messing with some electrical connection and quits.

wiggle check your main wiring harness across the engine with it running. its likely a broken wire or a rub through

On most modern cars, the dash lights, tail lights, and headlights are on different fuses, but are all controlled by the light switch. Check the fuses first. If all are blown, you have a major wiring problem, a short. If they are not, the problem is probably in the switch.