Hello, I have a 1996 GMC 1500 V6. I pulled up to a stop light and it died and wouldn't start. If i put gas into the throttle body, it will start until the fuel runs out. I've put a new fuel pump in, replaced the fuel filter and fuel relay with no luck. I am getting fuel up to the throttle body but it still will not start. There are two fuel lines going into the top of the throttle body and one of them has fuel that comes out when the key is turned on. I'm not sure what the other one is for unless it is a return.
Posted by Tim-1 on
Have you check the injector relay or maybe a fuse for injectors.
Posted on Aug 27, 2008
how to replace my turn signal switch
Posted by hjjackson3... on
Removal & Installation
Posted on Jun 25, 2009
my brake lights don't work. My turn signals do. And fuses are ok
What is wrong?
Posted by volleyball... on
The brake light switch is at fault. Get a new one and replace it. The location is at the brake pedal area mounted on a bracket with a plunger stud that rest on the brake pedal's arm the pad is attached to
Posted on May 08, 2010
I need the firing order of 1996 gmc engine sierra 5.7liter vortec
Posted by macadam_6 on
For the 1996 GMC SIERRA with 5.7L V8:
Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.com!
Posted on May 31, 2010
Where is the blower motor resistor located on a 1996 GMC 1500 2WD and how do you get at it?
thanks for your reply
Posted by johnny... on
It is located on top of the heater box in the passenger side remove the glove box to gain acess there are two 7mm srews and a relay braket holding it in place it is a tight squeeze but can be removed with a 1/4 inch ratchet.
Posted on Aug 01, 2009
The headlights will not turn on when I turn them on. The daytime running lights and marker lights and blinkers all still work fine, but when I turn the headlights on just the marker lights are on. I have checked the 50 amp fuse and it is fine... Is there a relay or something for the actual headlights or anything? I also have put a new switch on it as well so I know that is not the problem... I can't figure out why they are not coming on, they just all the suddon stopped working. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Posted by cdowns5807 on
My best guess is a bad ground common to both headlights.
I think the 50 amp fuse is for your starting circuit, not the headlamps, which is a 15 or 20 amp fuse. Did you try both dim and bright settings?
Since you don't know which fuse is for what, just remove and replace each fuse one at a time. As you go, visually inspect each fuse and test for continuity with an ohmmeter, then use a pink pearl eraser to clean the wafer tips before replacing. Do this methodically one at a time and replace any bad fuses with THE EXACT SAME AMPERAGE RATING.
Now, if your fuses are clearly marked and you do have a 50amp fuse in your headlamp circuit then you need to put the correct amperage in ASAP. If you have a 50 amp in the headlight circuit the whole circuit could be fried before the fuse blows, which is why you NEVER replace a fuse with a higher rated amperage.
Once you've worked over the fuseblocks go to the headlamp circuit and follow the wires and plugs coming from the lamps and going to the fuse block. Look for ground connections and tighten those, especially those coming from the headlamp wiring harnesses. If your lamps are good, the fuses are good, the plug connections are clean and making good contact and your grounds are good then all thats left is your headlamp switch and wiring to and fro. If you don't know what the plugs are for no harm can come from cleaning and reconnecting them, so you can't go wrong if you just do one at a time in a methodical fashion.
I have an old S-10 and the headlamp switch is junk- I have to hit it with contact cleaner every once in a while because Houston air quality is poor and there is a lot of ozone- all this corrodes connections- fuse maintenance cures a lot of ills.
After the fuseblocks I'd start by checking the actual headlamps to make sure they are working (check each filament for continuity or put 12v to it to test) and clean the contacts.
Then you can work your way back to the fuseblock and switch checking your plugs and connections. Its all pretty straightforward, just be methodical and clean your plug connections as you go. No schematic needed- just a little patience.
One thing to think about if your headlamps are both blown is that your alternator may be overcharging, or the regulator isn't working properly and your headlamps are blown because they got hit with too high a voltage. Eventually this will sulfate the battery and cause an internal short- if it is bulging you can be sure this is happening. So get your alternator and regulator circuit checked if this is the case.
Good luck, If this fixed ya then please rate this solution
Posted on Jun 21, 2009
what is the firing order on a 1996 gmc 1500 5.7 350 have my wires mixed up need image
Posted by nickyahtze... on
Here you go. Just follow the diagram. Have a great day.
Posted on Mar 11, 2010
1996 GMC Sierra blower motor only works on high speed.Is it the resistor?
Posted by mox265 on
more than likely yes the resistor
Posted on Oct 22, 2009
The selector button blinks when pushing Hi or Low but doesn't lock in. I hear a shift noise underneath when selecting Lo(in Neutral), but no shift noise when selecting Hi. I have disconnected the battery, waited awhile and then reconnected but this has not resolved the issue. I have tried shifting into 4wd Hi at both a standstill and while moving. I don't 4 wheel much except on winter roads when needed.
Posted by Anonymous... on
Ok the drive shaft will spin thats good. remove the front driff actuator and see if the plunger extents. if it doesn't check that the power and grond ar ok. If they are then replace the actuator. Just so you know the two actuator may be diffrent. If it has been replaced no problem. If it hasn't ever been replaced then ther is a updated part it come as a kit witha harness spacer and actuator.
Posted on Dec 17, 2009
I Hanve 1996 GMC 1500 brake pedal goes to floor. New brakes & Calipers in front, 1 new wheel cylinder. 3 New master cylinders,1 new brake booster, Brake line in rear rusted out & replaced. Have checked rubber lines for collasping or bubbling, When Bleeding all wheels lock, Have vacum bled and manual bled. Tried different ideas, do not touch brake until bleeder is open and depress and close bleeder. Tried just about everything, Have adjusted rear brakes out. When truck not running you can pump up brakes, when you start the truck the brakes will go to floor, will not pump up when running.
Posted by khans61 on
did you try a brake booster ?
Posted on Oct 10, 2010
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