Top 10 1996 GMC Sierra Questions & Answers

Have you check the injector relay or maybe a fuse for injectors.

My best guess is a bad ground common to both headlights.

I think the 50 amp fuse is for your starting circuit, not the headlamps, which is a 15 or 20 amp fuse. Did you try both dim and bright settings?

Since you don't know which fuse is for what, just remove and replace each fuse one at a time. As you go, visually inspect each fuse and test for continuity with an ohmmeter, then use a pink pearl eraser to clean the wafer tips before replacing. Do this methodically one at a time and replace any bad fuses with THE EXACT SAME AMPERAGE RATING.
Now, if your fuses are clearly marked and you do have a 50amp fuse in your headlamp circuit then you need to put the correct amperage in ASAP. If you have a 50 amp in the headlight circuit the whole circuit could be fried before the fuse blows, which is why you NEVER replace a fuse with a higher rated amperage.

Once you've worked over the fuseblocks go to the headlamp circuit and follow the wires and plugs coming from the lamps and going to the fuse block. Look for ground connections and tighten those, especially those coming from the headlamp wiring harnesses. If your lamps are good, the fuses are good, the plug connections are clean and making good contact and your grounds are good then all thats left is your headlamp switch and wiring to and fro. If you don't know what the plugs are for no harm can come from cleaning and reconnecting them, so you can't go wrong if you just do one at a time in a methodical fashion.
I have an old S-10 and the headlamp switch is junk- I have to hit it with contact cleaner every once in a while because Houston air quality is poor and there is a lot of ozone- all this corrodes connections- fuse maintenance cures a lot of ills.
After the fuseblocks I'd start by checking the actual headlamps to make sure they are working (check each filament for continuity or put 12v to it to test) and clean the contacts.

Then you can work your way back to the fuseblock and switch checking your plugs and connections. Its all pretty straightforward, just be methodical and clean your plug connections as you go. No schematic needed- just a little patience.

One thing to think about if your headlamps are both blown is that your alternator may be overcharging, or the regulator isn't working properly and your headlamps are blown because they got hit with too high a voltage. Eventually this will sulfate the battery and cause an internal short- if it is bulging you can be sure this is happening. So get your alternator and regulator circuit checked if this is the case.
Good luck, If this fixed ya then please rate this solution

Multi-function Switch Removal & Installation To Remove:
To Remove:

1. Remove the steering column trim covers.
2. Remove the wire harness from the retainers as needed.
3. Slide the turn signal and multifunction switch connectors out from the bulk head connector.
4. Remove the two mounting screws and remove the multi-function switch from the steering column.

1. Install the multi-function switch on the steering column.
   • Tighten the screws to 42 lb in (4.7 Nm).
2. Slide the turn signal and multifunction switch connectors into the bulkhead connector.
3. Install the harness in the original retainers.
4. Install the steering column trim covers.

There is an updated resistor/connector package. Very expensive from GM, try your local NAPA or other parts supplier for a replacement

It is located on top of the heater box in the passenger side remove the glove box to gain acess there are two 7mm srews and a relay braket holding it in place it is a tight squeeze but can be removed with a 1/4 inch ratchet.

Ok the drive shaft will spin thats good. remove the front driff actuator and see if the plunger extents. if it doesn't check that the power and grond ar ok. If they are then replace the actuator. Just so you know the two actuator may be diffrent. If it has been replaced no problem. If it hasn't ever been replaced then ther is a updated part it come as a kit witha harness spacer and actuator.

Here you go. Just follow the diagram. Have a great day.

The brake light switch is at fault. Get a new one and replace it. The location is at the brake pedal area mounted on a bracket with a plunger stud that rest on the brake pedal's arm the pad is attached to

For the 1996 GMC SIERRA with 5.7L V8:

Firing Order:
1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

Cylinders:
.........(back).........
|...8...|........|...7...|
|...6...|........|...5...|
|...4...|........|...3...|
|...2...|........|...1...|
.........(front)

Distributor Connections:
............(back)
Coil--->o
6------->o........o<-------5
4------->o........o<-------3
2------->o........o<-------7
8------->o........o<-------1
.............(front)

Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.com!

P1192 has to do with Intake Air Temp. That sensor might be bad. The P0700 has to do with Transmission Control. Whether it's the control module or something else is hard to say at this point. However, if the vibration is really in the front of the vehicle, I would start by checking UJoints on the front drive shaft, CV Joints and the Transmission Mount/Motor Mounts. Make sure your transmission fluid level is correct. The shaking "under a load" is likely a torque converter issue. I had the same problem on my 96 Suburban. Instead of rebuilding the transmission (or changing the torque converter), there is a product available called "Dr. Tranny Shudder Fixx". Small tube, put in with Transmission Fluid, shudder goes away almost instantly. Hope this helps.