Top 20 2005 Ford Excursion Questions & Answers

• All power windows are inoperative

• Fuse(s).
• Circuitry.
• LF window control switch.
• Accessory delay relay.

• Go To Pinpoint Test B

No its not you must evaluate your ignition system (1) check all spark plugs and regap or replace (2) clean the throttle body with fuel injection cleaner making sure that you also clean out each hose connection port and check those hoses (3)check air filter if dirty replace and change the gas filter(4) now take 2 cans of Berrimans B12 Chem tool and put it in the tank and fill up using a premium brand fuel like exxon shell bp mobile DO NOT USE NO NAME GAS OR A LOW OCTANE FUEL ONLY 93 HERE FOR THIS VEHICLE BRANDS LIKE DELTA LIBERTY USA GAS VALERO WAVE ARE OFF LIMITS THESE FUELS ARE GARBAGE THEY HAVE NO DETERGENTS IN THEM AND ARE THE BOTTOM OF THE BARREL JUNK FUEL VERY UNSTABLE ON THE BURNING AND TO MANY IMPURITIES THAT WREAK HAVOC ON FUEL INJECTION AND EMISSION SYSTEM SENSORS THAT BEING SAID ///// NOW AFTER THIS IS ALL DONE NOW YOU NEED TO DRIVE THE VEHICLE ON THE HIGHWAY TO HELP CLEAN THE VALVES THE REASON FOR THE 2 BERRIMANS IS THAT IT IS A SUPERIOR CLEANER AND IT WILL PRODUCE A HOTTER FLAME AND BURN in the combustion chamber for the intake valves and a hotter exhaust flame to clean out the catalytic convertors the highway drive should be more than 20 miles at 55mph or better depending on legal speed limits where you live do not speed a onger cruise at 55 will be sufficient ok next if you have a check engine light on you are running in the open loop setting to get your vehicle to a shop and I don't know what codes might be set from the past or now if it applies so now we will disconnect the battery cables//// only if you have a remote for your alarm to turn it off otherwise your truck will go into theft mode and will not start////once you disconnect the battery cables and clean them while your at it use 4/0 teel wool and alcohol/////NOT A WIRE BRUSH IT RIPPS THE TERMINALS AND POST TO SHREDS AND WILL CAUSE LOOSE FITTING CABLES ALL YOU NEED TO DO IS CLEAN OFF ANY CORROSION A SIMPLE WIPE WITH THE ALCOHOL AND WOOL WILL DO IT/// RECONNECT THE CABLES NOW GET IN AND TURN THE KEY TO THE ON POSITION BUT DO NOT CRANK THE ENGINE YOU WILL SEE THE DASH LIGHTS COME ON YOU ARE NOW IN THE SELF TEST MODE FOR THE OBD2 SYSTEM AND THIS HAPPENS EVERYTIME YOU TURN THE KEY IF THERE IS A PROBLEM THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WILL STAY ON AND NOW WE NEED TO GO TO AUTOZONE OR ANOTHER PARTS STORE AND HAVE THE CODES READ////IF ALL LIGHTS GO OUT///EX.CHECK ENGINE ABS AIRBAG THEN AGAIN YOU MUST NOW DRIVE THE TRUCK IN THE BEGINNING IT WILL RUN ROUGH BECAUSE IT HAS TO RELEARN THE SENSOR VALUES BUT IT WILL STABILIZE NOW WHILE DRIVING IF YOU EXPERIENCE THE SAME PROBLEMS OF HESITATION YOUR FUEL AND IGNITION SYSTEMS HAVE BEEN DONE AND CAN BE RULED OUT OF THE PROBLEM ZONE AND THE CODES IF ANY WILL BE FRESH ONES THAT YOU CAN NOW PINPOINT THE FAULT/S HERE AND THIS WILL EITHER BE EMISSIONS OR ELECTRONIC SENSOR FAILURE//$EX.CATALYTIC CONVERTOR OR MASS AIR FLOW EGR OR VACUUM LINES RELATED TO THE EMISSIONS SO NOW YOU HAVE COVERED THE BASES SPENDING LITTLE MONEY BEFORE A POSSIBILITY OF A BIG $$$$$ MONEY REPAIR THAT MIGHT BE LURKING AND YOUR VEHICLE SHOULD BE RUNNING BETTER BY NOW IF NOT $$$IT'S' TIME and remember this your engine runs on gas but it is controlled by electrical voltage from the sensors around the engine so cleaning all electrical connections is a tune up for the electrical system and will translate to a much stiffer gas peddle and optimum mpgs and less chance of breaking down from dirty contact sensor failure and one more thing so you know where this is coming from I'm a taxi mechanic in nyc.with 50 years experience in all phases of the automobile mechanics and we have vehicles with over 350,000 miles on them that I and other mechanics keep them on the street explorers excursions navigators crown victorias ect.so the right guy picked you up here now it's' up to you and anyone else who comes across this thread to do what's right for your vehicle my personal car had 424,659 before a piston cut through the #4 cylinder and I'm working on it as I answer your question so good luck enjoy learning take your time and write down what you're doing as well so you know and can eliminate possible causes and post back if the problem persists and we'll take it further till I get you there at problem solved but I think you should be there after this and now I must return to my own project here it's valve torque time good luck stephen

This wiper system is controlled through the BCM (body control module), it can be tested with a scan tool, you need that done.

Hi John!

• There is a short in the Circuit. Do not put any more fuses in it.

• Take it to the Electric Shop to have it diagnosed.

Good Luck, JP

need to know what vehicle and what suspension it has

Is you question about what a cabin air filter is or where it is located or how to change? Most of the ones I've seen are in the glove box but some are in the engine bay on the firewall. Youtube will have a video of how to swap. Get a replacement from walmart or amazon.

Have the catalytic converter checked at your local muffler shop...clogged...worn out...Hope this helps.

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you will have to get a replacement line. you can try and repair the leak with a compression coupler, but it would only be a temporary fix.

remove the wiper arms first of all by pulling back the locking tab at the mounting area of the arm. Pull straight off then remove the plastic cowl vent to gain access to the wiper linkage

Replace the motor? Have a Ford dealer confirm this is the problem first as the part is very expensive..

THE DRIVE SHAFT HAS TO BE REMOVE TO REPLACE THE PINION SEAL.DONT MATTER IF SEAL NOT LEAKING BUT SEAL NEED TO BE REPLACED TO KEEP OUT WATER DIRT OUT OF THE TRANSFER CASE TO KEEP FROM DAMAGING THE PINION BEARING.

should be next to your blower motor

I Guess , Below the Steering Column .
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the faster you drive tha louder the grinding noise .your bearings are all worn out

There could be a few things contributing to this. One is if the pins and sockets on the connection are in the right place (not pushed in somehow, if it's rusty, if it needs more pins). More than likely you won't have to follow the wires to see if there is one exposed since all markers don't work, but i would start with the connections first, try to clean then up and make sure they are in the right place. The other factor would be that the wiring harness may just be bad for the wires on the markers. I hope this helps you out and if it doesn't i will happily look more into it.

I would first check the u-joints on the driveshaft if the problem only happens when the speed is between 62-75mph. Then check all the tires for lumps or bulgesin the sidewall or tread surface. The tires may also be out of balance and bouncing at that speed. If the vibration occurs only when the engine is around 2000rpm, check the pulleys, serpentine belt and anything driven by it for looseness. Also, check the trans mount to see if it is loose or broken. If everything checks out ok, have the OBD codes checked to see if anything might be causing the engine to surge.

check your engine support, if it is ok check your tie rods and stabilizers or might as well have your wheels aligned...

There is ,check your owners manual for the fuse#
Most likely the washer pump quite working. May as well pull the washer tank and jump the pump to 12Volts,then go to dealer and get new one,if no good.