20 Most Recent 2007 Hummer H2 SUT - Page 8 Questions & Answers

if it was a fuse they would all stop working as it is a electronic cluster. most likely a gauge fault but you might run down the wiring with a volt meter, where the voltage stops is where the issue is. also you might verify you fuel sender is working and check voltage to battery while running

I would pull the fuel filter loacted on the frame and blow through it. If it has any resistance, it is plugged and this is the cause of your problems. Let me know what you find.

That is the check engine light. It has come on to tell you there is a problem with the computer, computer controlled device, sensor, or system the computer monitors. You bestbet it to check for codes. Once you know them you will have a much better idea of what's going on. Let me know if you have any questions and I'll do my best to answer them. Thank you for using FixYa.com! I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

You must remove the seat from the truck, then remove the drive motors that control the adjustment you wish to make, then set the seat to where you want it and reinstall the drive motors. There is no other way. I would suggest you try and fix the problem with the seat, often it is just the switch that is bad. Please rate my Help for Fixya, it is all i ask for my time and effort to assist you. Thanks

When this warning light flashes it means the fluid (ATF) temperature of the transmission have reached a level that is detrimental to the operation of the transmission and damage will occur if the cause is not corrected. The causes can be overloading (towing) the vehicle, severe operational circumstances such as high air temps. Other common causes are excessive slippage of the transmission due to worn clutch packs or a defective torque converter. Also the TFT (trans fluid temperature sensor) can malfunction and send a false signal to transmission control module (TCM) and set the warning light. I would not ignore this warning, have it checked by a transmission shop or the dealer.

If I were to make an educated guess I'd say some where in the vecenity of the fuse box

most likely your fuel pump has failed!

The gauge or sending unit could be bad, so you need to screw in a mechanical gauge once to verify.
Then there is the possibility they put in too thin of oil. Of you could have a leak letting pressure out, like a loose pump. Don't wait.

High side should never go over 300...Two things that you should fix first....
Check and make sure nothing is blocking the air flow though the condenser no or low air flow will cause high pressure...
Next, (Orifice Tube) you will have to remove all freon to get to it...It may be clogged, and will cause high pressure...
There are more things, but i think, these may correct the problem...Good Luck

Most likely BRAKE Fluid. !! Pull the wheels (one at a time if doing it yourself) and closely inspect the calipers and flex line to them and teh connections to the metal line which goes to the brake master cylinder.
Its worth taking to a brake shop for inspection. Quick look is usually free.
CHECK YOUR BRAKE FLUID LEVEL BEFORE DRIVING FURTHER.

is the system charge sufficient? for hot air comjng from both sides very unlikely that both temp door actuators have gone bad at the same time. I would check to make sure the a/c clutch is working before going into the electronic controls in the dash.

When an inner c/v joint starts to go out it does exactly as you are describing. Often times all that is needed is to simply look under your vehicle, you may see a torn "boot"; the sealed rubber cover that goes over the constant velocity or c/v joint. These are found at each end of the half shafts. On your suv there are 4 shafts, one for each wheel. For each shaft you have two c/v joints one on each end, they are very simular to universal joints in that they allow for independant movement of the wheels and suspention. Please note c/v joints will only make noise for a short period of time then they break! The popping sound is metal-to-metal contact. You want to look for torn boots on the transmission side or inner side of the shafts. If on the back, on the sides closest to the differential.