A couple of possibilities, the most common is brake light switch on brake pedal. Switch or actual wires have come off - check that first. Then check connections on your cruise control unit, they corrode over time and lose contact
It depends on the year. Call the dealer and see if they can cut a key with your vin number. Some of the newer keys have to be programmed to your car, and the dealer can do that for you. If it is an older BMW a locksmith may be your least expensive resource to make a key.
Hi .
If you have a BMW factory code for your audio/radio equipment get it, if you don't have a code and have a coded radio/audio system it's not that easy !
*First rule is disconnect the NEG terminal first always.(it's the smaller of the two terminals (-) .
Some radio savers will allow you to connect a slave battery sourse to the car to mentain the 12v supply in order to save audio equip codes.
Most if not all suppliers of battery's will fit the replacement battery FOC , but you will need the code's in most cases ,,, (a slave 12v supply will not erase radio codes)
If you don't have coded factory fitted audio equip , Happy days. refer to (*)
most airbag controllers cannot be repaired (outside of remanufactures). Most are simply replaced with a new or remanufactured part. Not something someone should do themselves without prior experience in the automotive field or with airbag systems. Airbags could be deployed or damaged if proper procedures are not followed.
Usually this job is performed at a automotive trim shop. They have special tools to remove the hog rings that keep the trim cushions and trim backs onto the seats. They will have to be removed to change this cable
As a first course of action please do remove the positive battery connector and let it sit for atleast 30mins. then reconnect it again. The computer needs to relearn itself and by doing this may get rid of the check engine light.
Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!
Hello almo. You can actually test the O2 sensors right in the vehicle. You will need to attach the positive lead of a high impedance DC voltmeter to the Oxygen sensor output wire. This wire should remain attached to the computer. [Please note - this must be a high impedance DC voltmeter, not a cheap one.] If at this point, you are still comfortable with doing this test yourself, I am referring you to an excellent and complete article on how to proceed. IF however, at this point you feel that you are uncomfortable with this procedure please look in the phone book for an Autoelectric Repair Shop. These shops have all of the equipment necessary to do this test, and generally they are familiar with the procedure which this detailed article will illuminate for you.
The specific instructions you are seeking are toward the bottom of the article under the category "Testing O2 sensors that are installed".
If your car has lost several miles per gallon of fuel economy and the usual tune up steps do not improve it. This *is not* a pointer to O2 failure, it just brings up the possibility. Vacuum leaks and ignition problems are common fuel economy destroyers. As mentioned by others, the on board computer may also set one of several failure "codes". If the computer has issued a code pertaining to the O2 sensor, the sensor and it's wiring should be tested. Usually when the sensor is bad, the engine will show some loss of power, and will not seem to respond quickly.
The O2 sensors or are located just off the engine in the exhaust head pipes before the catalytic converters, there are two other sensors after the catalytic converters, but they are not O2 sensors they perform the funcion of catalytic converter efficiency monitors. below is a picture of a BMW Oxygen sensor (O2). The are removed with a special 7/8" O2 socket or a 7/8" open end stubby wrench.
The idle control valve is at the right handside and just under the intake manifold.
Stand at the drivers side of your engine bay and look at at the throttle body. The ICV is directly under it and to the right underneath the manifold. It has a vacuum line connected to the left side and a connector on the right.
It may be easier to get to if unscrew the hoseclamp to the throttle body and the plug on the side of the afm, as well as the clips from the air box There are 2 hoses going to the boot on the bottom, they just pull out, one of them goes directly to the IAC. The IAC itself should just slide out of its holder.
The IAC valve looks like this
Also there is a good video on Youtube showing how to get at the IAC on an E46. The location on your engine is much the same.
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Hello Almo. Most likely these symptoms are caused by either a vacuum leak or a bad Idle Air Control valve or IAC valve. If the IAC is toast (and stuck in one position), it would cause the same exact symptom as a vacuum leak.
Spraying WD-40 around any potential areas that could be leaking should help discover if you have a vacuum leak. Using carb cleaner would be OK around metal, but would further dry out rubber hoses.
Also, on a vehicle that is 10 years old, checking the vacuum hoses would be a good idea and would be a very likely source of a vacuum leak. Spraying WD-40 or on the hoses would yield the same discovery if there is a leak. All said, consider the following:
1. Check vacuum hoses - use WD-40 to help diagnose 2. Check for vacuum leaks around gaskets - again use WD-40 3. Check and replace (if necessary) the IAC valve ( or step motor) - Joe
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