2005 Mitsubishi Lancer OZ-Rally - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

the dash lamp marked SECURITY IS DEAD all the time.keyon and off? fuse #2 missing,(security fuse)? remove the remote battery so the bad buttons in FOB do not trip the alarm I',m sure you mean factory alarm is in the car. in USA we can scan the OBD2 port and see why any alarm tripped. lots of ways there are, door switches, etc. lost the users manual tell you on most cars the alarm need be enabled. and how. most say , open the door with good fob. then do not lock the door using fob and alarm is not active. but with a dead fob how? (car came new with 2 fobs) lost 2nd? my answers are for USA spec cars only, not world wide. ever. doors with keyless entry system is what they call this. fob locks. simple have you examined the whole car for wiriing harness hacks that put in any kind of 1000 aftermarket alarms here, this is first. is the horn honking? the same horn the steering well uses or some other horn hacked in to car. ( we inspect all this first) the factory ETACS as its own fob RECEIVE inside (antanna) there are 3 fuses to ETACS. fuse 22 do not pull that it kills vast other things too. Fuse 2 and fuse 15 goes there but not sure what happens pulled but seems the interior door lock buttons go dead. doing that.. here is my only cure. pull the battery NEG lug for 1hour, or more even overnight see if ETACS , resets (well it sure will) but do so and not go into alarm and first remove the FOB battery (on all fobs for this car) see fob guts below 1 coin cell there , remove it, now bad buttons do not cause system to fail. open doors only with metal key. all instructions for this car assume the below is not bad. and buttons love to fail even SHORTED.(BAD)

Iam getting error 92 ETV MTR FB and my car is producing a laughing sound when i press brake pad.

kindly change the timing belt

if its a 2010 on no spring, they have two useless little bits of plastic that depress and go flat from the heat and then dont pop the door , another way to ripp us off !

0.016 cold 0.015 hot

In the gas tank. Remove the rear seat and look for an access plate.

I'd start by looking at the clutch hydraulic circuit. "...could not put gear into 1st or reverse" suggests that the change cables on the transmission may be failing. And just in case, make sure there's nothing in the cabin that's jamming the gear change lever.

The fuel pump relay is behind the radio in the center console.

P2138 is the an issue with the throttle position sensor. Age can cause intermittent failures. Probably the simplest fix is replace the sensor.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rgwOHylN63s Here is a link to a video for this

you can get guide from many sites.. i know few error codes/ fault codes, wiring diagrams, schematic diagrams, torque specs, engine info, switches functioning, assemble, disassembly, complete refurbish, repair, installation every single thing is covered

First check to make sure the starter solenoid is still plugged into the wire harness and is getting power when you turn the key. Tap on the side of the starter gently with a hammer. If you turn the key and the starter works you just need new starter brushes. If the solenoid does not click when you turn the key just replace the whole assembly , the solenoid is bad (It's part of the starter).

search -- Mitsubishi fault code p1773 and there will be many sites with reference to that code

the pump is controlled by the fuel pressure regulator and if that unit is not working properly and telling the ECM to switch on the pump relay, you might be wasting time and money replacing what is not faulty do the checks on the relay, fuses, regulator , before going to the pump

check oil level in the transmission run the fault codes as it could be a problem sensor make sure that only CVT transmission oil is used as ATF oil destroys CV transmissions

you need service and repair manual with diagram which will provide you all the knowledge you want and you can get the manual from the given link easily http://toolsnyou.com/

If you're finding it difficult to service/repair your car i know a website that has every info on all vehicles and vehicle problems, with their solution In detail.. it's www.reliable-store.com

On the transmission case. Below is a typical Mitsubishi Range selector switch. We do not have "Lancer" in the USA"

On most fan speed controllers I have seen, there is a series of resistors in series.The resistor bank is usually located below the fan - on the passenger side under the dash. You may have to renmove the fan to get to it - usually about 4 nuts, leaving embedded studs behind. It has a few cables going in to it and when you pull it out, you will see some coils of resistance wire. I managed to fix up the one on my wife's TM Magna years ago and it still ran OK, although I had to guess the amount of resistance I had to put in. They should be cheap enough to buy - new or from a wrecker. Remember that if you want to replace the resistor with an electronic type, it will have to be rated for quite a few amps - probably about 5 amps at least (= 60 Watts) and that is a big resistor. The wire coils are better and they are cooled by the airflow of the fan.

take it away from the mechanic and take it to an accredited specialist professional auto transmission shop for a proper diagnosis indicates servo/ solenoid problem or high pump pressure could be TCM , wiring faults have the fault codes read