I don't get the triangle. 2011 328xi. When I push the BC switch, I can only see time, oil change, service control. Nothing else. The garage told me that I have many warning codes. Any ideas?
They should fix it for you and show you how. But, its rather simple. Just go to settings and set the new limit to a higher value or to "--" to turn off.
It's actually a message. It will say "Low coolant level" or "Check coolant level" . Hard to miss. Anyway, the sensor is in and part of the coolant reservoir. If the sensor isn't working, you need to replace the reservoir.
replace the timing chain tensioner, about 60 euro and easy to do yourself,
however, the timing chain guides may be broke or damaged which is a big operation. They are made from plastic and can become brittle and break.
The kit for them are relatively cheap off eBay (120 euro) but they are very labour intensive, no change out of 500 euro id say,
lets hope its the tensioner
The cable is routed from the lever to the drivers side fender where there is a box mechanism. There, 2 cables are pulled by the release cable and each runs to a latch on the corners. It sounds like you only released one of the latches. Trace back to the box where the cable splits.
I have had the same problem on an older BMW. This is usually a symptom of a bad final stage resistor, an electronic module located in the center console in front of the front seat on the passenger's side. Google final stage resistor for your model and you will find the info. you need. Get ready for your back to ache hanging your feet over the front seat. Replacement modules are sold on ebay.
the window actuators needs to be re initialized. they need to learn how far to go up. i had this with my rear window. i dont remember exactly how to do it but if you call the dealer they might tell you or google it. its some thing like push the window button down and hold for a while and then up and hold for a while then up again until it start rolling up. you will see in the center message screen
Sorry mate take it to BMW if you don`t have the ETM DON`T make it harder for yourself these cars are not Fords and will cost you more if you don`t have the right tools
back pressure from your motor while running. Tip: you should never check your oil while motor is running. You will never get an accurate reading. And never leave the cap on your valve covers off or loose while running your vehicle. It will blow your oil out, then you will freeze up your motor or blow your pistons out. (blow your motor up!)
Your English is clear and concise, thanks for the detailed explanation.
There may be more than one problem here. A good start would be having the DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) scanned with an OBDII reader. That may help addressing the nature of the problem.
If the engine RPM goes down in correspondence with engine sound changing to "diesel like", that means that the change is caused by a cylinder that stops working.
The "diesel like" sound occurs because of misfires that can be caused by distribution or by valve/timing problems. One of the six (or 4 depending on engine) cylinders does not fire, resulting in compression going down, lower RPM, and sound changing to diesel-like.
Here the sound of a BMW 316i engine misfiring:
If the problem is misfire, start from ordinary maintenance. Replace air filter, fuel filter and spark plugs.
If ordinary maintenance does not fix the problem, have timing checked. This car mounts a N52 engine which is known for having camshaft problems. This is particularly common after an high mileage. In absence of codes that can address a different problems check timing.
If the problem is not misfire, the RPM going up and down on its own is usually symptom of injection
problems. A common problem resulting in the engine revving up and down
is a defective EGR system. The EGR valve opens and closes to allow recirculated gases into the engine. In that case the engine will go up and down
like if you touch slightly the accelerator pedal. The engine sound will
not change to "diesel like" when engine RPM goes down.
Other faults that may result in engine revving up and down concern air intake and sensors, fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator, vacuum leaks. Most of the time such problems are addressed by the DTC stored in the car computer. Start doing a code scanning before proceeding with the repair.
if you have a red steering wheel displayed in the instrument cluster your steering column lock has malfunctioned. this is a known issue. unfortunately it cant be replaced separately and you will need a complete steering colunm. as bad as it seems the repair is quite simple i could complete repair in about an hour not sure cost of part
