run the fault codes
indicates a problem ambient temp or baro sensor not reporting to the ECM to get the correct air/fuel ration for starting ( as in the old choke application)
There's probably something in the way. Get under and behind the seat with a flashlight and check the back end of the rails to see if something is there.
It actually sounds like you have a cold or cracked solder joint or you have oxidation on your connector or socket to the display module. Unplug then plug in your display module several times to attempt to remove the oxidation and see if that helps.
Battery light is for the charging system not working , not the battery .
anybody had this issue? Don't look for magical fixes , what fixes someone else's vehicle may not fix yours . If you don't know how the thing's on your vehicle work ,your best bet , take it to a qualified repair shop. Testing the electrical circuits of the thing's not working is how you fix these type problems . Looking at a wiring diagram , using a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter an testing the electrical circuits.
Electric Testing Techniques You Need to Knowhttp://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html free wiring diagrams here !
Enter vehicle info. Year , make , model and engine size. Under system click on body & accessories then under subsystem click on something your having problems with . Then take apart what ever need's to ,to get at componets that need testing . Insturment cluster , door panel's to check door switches , window motors .
Plus GM vehicles had problems with insturment clusters from 2003 to 2006 . causing all kind of electrical problems .
If you have not or know not what i have said here , take it to a qualified repair shop.
Possibly a busted fuel pressure regulator diaphragm. The regulator is mounted to the end of the fuel rail.
With the engine idling, pull the vacuum line off the regulator port. If gas comes out of the port, replace the regulator.
have the battery load tested for serviceability or drain when left standing
have the fault codes read to find the problem area from the fault codes ead
sounds like a vacuum leak from a mad gasket
as the engine warms up the gap increases allowing the noise
on acceleration the vacuum is very low so the noise is not heard
check for hoses that are cracked , loose or fallen off
They make oil pan plugs for this situation. It's a bolt with a rubber spacer that expands to seal the hole when you tighten it. If the old plug is still in the pan, use vice grips to thread it out. No need to replace pan, but maybe replace the oil change shop. Guys you went to have no experience.
The lock cylinder is the most likely suspect and is in stock at your favorite local auto parts store. To change it, the steering wheel has to come off first. The lock cylinder is held in place by one screw. If there are more problems, you will see them when the steering wheel comes off.
When you turn the ignition to start, do you hear the starter turning and the solenoid engaging the flywheel ? test your starter by jumping it and see if the engine turns over. If this works, then you might consider in checking fuel pressure. Do you have any codes in your ECM ?
