GMC K1500 - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

I would look for harness damage under the bed since the brake and tails are seperate circuits.

the wires come out above the brake pedal assembly. the keyless entry module mounts here also you have to remove the pedal assembly to get to this area.

Wiring, schematic, electrical diagrams, fuse diag, error codes, torque settings etc are basic contents of these online books they have here on this website www.reliable-store.com I have attached. Must check it out

There should be a digital ratio adapter controller (DRAC) between the speed sensor and the instrument cluster (IP) that may be faulty (or the IP itself is faulty). Try replacing the DRAC (should be installed on the ECM bracket under the dash). Be sure to disconnect the battery before doing this.

The fittings on the engine will come with the o-rings and plastic fastener Run to parts store and pick one up

Well my only help would be to think it out this way. Test the wire/switch. That being said I do not access to a diagram but a simple tester should do this with Key on as it should only be hot when key is on. You just have to work backwards from the Switch i.e. when does it blow ? If it blows immediately it possible the in the hot wire to the switch or the switch itself. If it blows when the switch is activated it may be the Switch it self or the line through to the light. That is how I'd look at it. Hope I helped.

Does it miss at idle or going down the road, maybe both? Any applicable trouble codes? If you have that spider fuel system, I usually suspect that first. That system is noted for problems. You could try a cylinder balance test, engine idling, you could kill the cylinders one at a time, quickly. If you kill a cylinder that has no effect on the idle, the cylinder is dead. Then you have to decide if problem is spark--fuel--compression on that cylinder.

Regrettably no you need to expose the timing system to check for miss alignment of timing marks also to find out why it jumped and to replace the faulty/worn parts

I'm assuming "white" smoke and not "black" since you didn't mention. If white smoke, it's coolant or oil leaking into the cylinder heads while it is not running. If oil and from leaking valve guide seals, it's not a serious thing and basically a nuisance. Just keep your motor oil level topped off until you have new seals installed or dispose of vehicle. If coolant, it's a much more serious problem. The liquid in the head will do two things. One, foul the spark plug and possibly cause hydraulic lock (fluids cannot be compressed and cylinder locks up) Check you oil level and if keeps going down a quart every few hundred miles, it's the valve seals. Check your coolant. If down, it's possibly a head gasket leak, which is not uncommon for vintage and make. If coolant keeps going down and not leaking on ground, that's a smoking gun, not to make a bad pun, for a leaking head gasket. At this point, it's prudent to first invest $10 on Barr's Leak Copper (looks like liquid copper in a jar) and add to your coolant system. Follow manufacturer's instructions and then see if problem either persists or abates. If it abates, go and buy a lottery ticket since you're very lucky and solved a serious problem with an inexpensive fix. Good Luck

Check at injector wire with a test anoid light blinking while cranking engine if there is a signal to the injectors. The + signal is from a FUSE. and the - signal is from the ECM. If it's an ECM problem, before changing it. Check all positive and ground at ECM pinout check. Hope it helps.

The fuel level gage sending unit is defective, very common problem. The sending unit comes with a new fuel pump and is referred to as a module, also make darn sure you replace the fuel pump connector at the fuel tank, solder and shrink tube the new connector on, DO NOT USE CRIMP CONNECTORS.

overdrive servo/ solenoid is not operational , either from failed unit or wiring problem check transmission actuator for operation or adjustment as well

have the fault codes read first using a scan tool with GM protocol installed ( not all scanners are capable of reading GM codes there will be a code recorded doubt if it will be a pump problem but it could be a pressure regulator problem or an EVAP system problem

it indicates injector problems leaking injector seal /s dirty injectors you can try moving no 4 injector to another cylinder and if the misfire moves as well , replace that injector it it doesn't move the misfire , it is coils or ECM problems

maybe your running hot, check your coolant to water ratio.

If the engine is trying to flood, it will kill the engine. If you have the spider fuel system, it is noted for problems. If it cranks good but won't start, have a helper crank it while you check for spark at the spark plugs. If spark everywhere, use a gage and check proper fuel pressure, also, check fuel injector pulse. I don't know if this may be a problem? below

the key switch or the actual switch ? do you mean the key? for the key u must dismantle the column. for the switch u must lower the column by removing the two bolts holding the column up and the switch is lower on the column next to the high beam switchwitch is held on by two 8mm bolts and two plugs

maybe wiper arm mechanism on way out

That is not a radio. That is a control head. The 7 wires carry data to the radio brain which on this trucks is a silver box located directly above the gas pedal. These trucks also had an optional cassette player/ cassette and eq unit that was mounted in the center of the dash that also connected to the radio brain as well.

there is a site www.knfilters.com that make such equipment for v8 engines in particular K&N 59-3364 would probably fit besides that go google and type in--- flame arrestors for air inlet--- and there is plenty of information on uses types etc the idea is to have the ignition firing order right, the ignition timing correct (12 degrees btdc for chev)and the correct air/fuel mixture ratio and back firing will not occur unless you have a really rad**cal cam that is not correctly timed and the engine rpms are too low for the cam