Zanussi Ovens - Page 7 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Surface burners are typically either a coil type, solid type or a ribbon coil as used in smooth top ranges. All of these consist of a heating wire that uses electric current to produce heat. Coil type elements can be checked for continuity by removing them from the terminal block and testing them with a multi-meter. You should also inspect the terminal ends for signs of heat damage or corrosion, and if present, you should replace the terminal block or receptacle at the same time. You will need to remove power from the range to change the terminal block. Solid elements and smooth top elements require raising or removing the main top to gain access. You will need to remove power from the range before lifting the main top. Continuity can then be checked with a multi-meter, once you have removed the wires from the element terminals. On modern electronic control ranges, the oven temperature sensor is the part that regulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meter but will need to know the correct resistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. The infinite switch on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch. 1.If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons. (Locate the suspect switch for testing. Label all wires and terminals before disconnecting. A close up digital photo may be helpful. 2.On the burner control switch the terminal labeled "P" leads to the burner indicator light. The terminals labeled "H1" and "H2" lead to the burner element and the terminals labeled "L1" and "L2" (sometimes "N1" and "N2") are the power supply wires. 3.Set your multimeter to ohms setting x1. Turn the burner control to the highest temperature setting. Place one probe on pin "L1" and the second probe on pin "H1". The resistance measurement should be very low, zero to twenty ohms. If the test shows high or infinite resistance, the burner switch is defective. 4.Repeat the step above for the terminals "L2" and "H2". 5.If the control passes that test, turn the temperature setting to about the middle of the range and repeat the previous two steps. This will test for an intermittent problem with the switch. If the test does not show continuity with very low resistance, the switch should be replaced. 6.With the switch turned to the "Off" position, the resistance on each of the pairs of terminals tested above should now show no continuity or a reading of infinite resistance. 7.A test for continuity between "P" and "L1" when the burner control switch is on should show continuity. The light should be on whenever the control is turned on. If your test shows continuity, but the light does not operate, it is likely the bulb has failed. If the burner switch shows high or infinite resistance, the switch is not passing along current to the burner and so the switch should be replaced. ) Most modern ovens use an electronic control board to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced. The oven burner igniter commonly known as the hot surface igniter is used in modern gas oven burners to open the gas valve and to ignite the gas. As the igniter draws electric current it will heat to a high temperature and glow, as well as cause the bi-metal in the oven safety valve to warp and open the valve releasing the gas to be ignited. This sequence normally takes about a minute. Igniters come in both flat and round styles and are very fragile. If the burner does not light then you should check the igniter first. If the igniter does not glow at all, then check for power to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If power is present then the igniter may be open circuit and can be checked for continuity with a multi-meter. If the igniter is glowing, but the burner is not lighting, the igniter may be weak and still be at fault because it requires a certain amount of current draw to open the valve. This check requires the use of an amp meter and should be performed by a qualified person. If the igniter is defective then it must be replaced. god is gooddddd

Gas ovens / stovetop that use gas and not electricity. These work by igniting gas and use actual flame on the the stovetop. Newest cook top styles, such as the induction or halogen cook tops combine the same style to produce more even heating. Some of these ovens feature thermal limiters or thermostats that regulate the burner system. GAS OVENS The spark igniter tip is dirty (can clean it with either a little wire brush or a piece of fine sandpaper). 2) The Pilot flame is too low, and the tip of the igniter is not in the flame good enough. (the flame acts as a circuit when it touches the tip & completes the circuit). 3) The spark module is no good and needs to be replaced.(But 1 & 2 are your best bet). spark module does not sense the flame when it's on. The spark igniter is also the flame sensor which provides feedback to the spark module. Make sure the igniter is properly aligned with the burner lighting holes and it is clean. All lighting holes must be clean too. You can enlarge them using a drill bit one size bigger. If it would not fix the problem, replace the bake burner and the igniter. There is a small chance for the spark module itself to be bad as well. The oven safety valve (also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.

The oven safety valve (also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.

I would say you are right on your wondering. look at your manuel and it will show you a diagram

check thew thermal fuse and the house and terminal outlet for full 220 volts and not just 110

is there power on the rest of unit? the burners? if so then check ur elements? the oven safety valve, and more than likely if applicable the thermal fuse.

you usually have to remove a couple screws from the back panel to get to the element and in others u can remove it from within if u look inside u should be able to see if it has a screw holding it. and the connecting plugs can be removed from the element

Check either the door hinges or seal

When the element blew , it may have taken out either the selector switch or possibly the toc, if the bulb has blown the oven should still heat up .

Is the rcd tripping?

try resoldering that connection on the board probably loose.

there are two problems and two solutions i can think of. first there could be a bir around the inside of hole not allowing smooth travel. the second one could be a bad switch. on the raise area on the inside of door should be four or more screws remove screws the inside of door should raise up i would use a stick or something so you don't have to disassemble the whole door. remove switch which i go get a new one of it's on a board call the 800 number where serial # and model# is

MIX 1/2 VINEGAR &1/2 WATER PUT INTO SPRAY BOTTLE TO CLEAN. IF CLEANING INSIDE BOTH PANES OF GLASS YOU WILL NEED TO TAKE OFF THE INSIDE PANNEL TO CLEAN. USUALY THERE ARE ABOUT 4 TINY SCREWS THAT HOLD IT ON.

Remember you are using 220VAC. If you get a power supply of 110VAC on one leg of the circuit, the coils etc. will not heat up. Check to see if your circuit breaker is whole and using the required current and voltage supply necessary to operate the unit. If you have proper power at the circuit panel, then the elements may have sustained damage.

Because in Main Oven Cavity (large) around the convection fan is very powerful ring heating element 2500W (not visible) who works in the Fan mode. Therefore, it is not necessary that all heaters work because it will overheat the oven. Dado