Worldwide Electrical Supplies - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

First, disconnect the battery. Find the wire harness leading to the alternator, unbolt it or unclip it from it's brackets. Release the tension on the power steering belt and unbolt pump from it's bracket, pull the belt out of the way and pull the pump up and back (keep the hoses attached) out of the way. Now you can see the alternator much better, so disconnect the wiring from the back of it. Next loosen the adjuster bolt enough to pull the belt off. Now remove the adjuster mounting bolt (with adjuster bolt in it). On the underside of the alternator will be a nut facing toward the driver side. Loosen it enough that you can easily pivot the alternator forward and back. The pivot bolt just sits in a "C" shaped channel, work the alternator back and forth while pulling up, it should pop out. Getting it out of it's "hole" now may be tough. I supported the engine under the oilpan (carefully) using a block of wood on my floor jack. Once you take the tension off of it, you can remove the upper motor mount on the driver's side (3 nuts and a bolt). By adjusting the jack up and down you can now gain some room to wiggle the alternator up and out. Reverse all this to install your new alternator!

hi it all sound quite familiar take look at the regulator functioning . it is quite possible to by pass the pcm but the consequences are not favourable , if in need change the pcm

May be something near/in the flywheel bell housing. It sounds like a piece of rusted flywheel dust cover has bent in touching flywheel area as you travel.} Could be debris from tall grass/weeds too. Good luck.

It's behind right hand front cowl panel

The IAC may be the issue. I removed it and cleaned it. It ran OK until I tapped it with my screwdriver. The RPMs shot right up and I could hear the air rushing through. My scanner showed that the voltage to the IAC did not change. I pinched the hose that comes off the intake to feed the IAC and the throttle dropped to normal levels.

19"

I had that happen also. I discovered the steering column was worn out on the inside. There are parts inside the column that can break or wear, causing this. Options are a used steering column or a really good mechanic to tear it apart and try to fix it. Those particular parts may not be available anywhere except a junk/salvage yard. God bless your efforts.

if the generator was stored with fuel in it the fuel turns into a kind of jelly and blocks the supply line and tap of the tank also fuel in carburater becomes like a varnish and clogs the jets and makes the float stick.drain and clean the tank,tap and lines remove the carb strip and clean assemble and run it

http://www.emprendedor.link/ford-focus-wiring-diagram/2/2000-ford-focus-fuse-diagram/

Elaine, this problem is normally a blend door issue, Blend door actuator has to be replaced. Check the attached links, "I hope this helped you out, if so let me know by pressing the helpful button. Check out some of my other posts if you need more tips and info." Heater Blend Door Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums Heater Blend Door ActuatorsFor Ford E150 and E250 Ford blend door fix 15 minutes http://www.factoryairtemp.com/Upload/Factory%20Air/documents/Tech%20Tips/FA4S%20356%20FORD'S%20BLEND%20DOOR%20ACTUATOR.PDF

Look for trapped air in the coolant system. When you are running down the road the engine RPM provides enough pumping action to force the coolant pass the air locks (trapped air) in the system. You need to purge the air from the coolant. Some engines require opening a purge plug to vent. The following video provides a simple way to remove the air. Chevy pickup suv fill and bleed the cooling system

Check the switch has power going to it,try spraying it withWD40.

the hiss sound is a failed brake booster allowing air into the engine on brake application the engine light is recording this change it air /fuel mixture and will stay on until the vacuum has been restored and the air /fuel mixture is again correct replace the brake booster