Whirlwind Heating & Cooling - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

The compressor needs to be running.Also you need freon charging guages and a pressure temp chart to tell how much you need to add.If your not sure of anything i said here have a service person do this.You take a risk of damaging the unit and yourself.

the thermostat have 2 connection(1 normal open connection and 1 is normal open connection),and it necesary to put your conection on open connection.

that depends on the size of the unit and lenght odf the line set.. to give you a general answer your suction pressure should be about 70 PSIG and you liquid line (small line) should be between 245-265 depending on the outdoor temp you will need a set of freon gauges to check this these readings are for an R-22 system if you have R-410a the readings will be much higher

Is the compressor running?

on line look for washer dryers parts, lots of hose, just need specs

Some HVAC 'experts' install coil lines without a pressure outlet. (ecspecially older units) In which case, you will have to install one. Usually they are located outside very close to the compressor unit on the inflow copper line. If not present, you can chase the lines back to the cooler head in the furnace/cooling unit plenum. It would be visible at some point in the lines if it was installed in the first place.

if liquid freon enters compressor it could break the discharge valve which in recip compressors is a reed type valve

defrost cycle may be faulty. They are usually simple timers with contacts that change the reversing valve. check to see if the RV is switching

No, R12 and R22 are not compatible freons. You need to recharge with R22.

Not sure what you need, but try here.

Your unit may be going into a defrost cycle. If so sounds like a bad defrost board. It sends a signal to electric heaters inside to come on. Change board and sensor

I'm having a similar problem but with a home a/c unit. I had every appliance in the house checked, first, including furnace, but no problems were found. I get similar symptoms, many people can't smell anything, a few can. Someone visiting asked me in September if my furnace was on because it was a slight mechanical/ozone-y smell. I'm about to drop a lot of money on a VOC test because this has been going on for 8 months with no solutions. It's cold comfort, because I have no solution, but if I figure out what my problem is, I'll post it here, too.

Check and make sure the condenser coil is clean and unobstructed.

Sounds like a faulty Tstat that's sending a low voltage signal to the contactor coil only sometimes. The high pressure cut out or the compressor's internal thermal protection could of opened, and then closed again after cooling. Make sure the condenser is clean and not obstructed.

Sounds like your compressor is locked up or is running under a sevre load you would be best to call a professional

First your system is 22 and 134A is a auto AC refrigerant. I have never seen it used in residential ac. I have been in AC business for 45 years. The new refrigerant is 410A or Puron. But you can not use it. Your outside unit is set up for 22. Mix 134A with the oil used in a 22 system is not done. You need to get the correct coil for your system. They are going to make 22 for years. They now have a Drop in for 22 called NU22. I know times are tough but you may have to get a Service Tech anyway.