Whirlpool duet - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support - Page 2

Hi,
When my washer did that, I found that the shocks that hold the tub were bad...

Check out this tip I wrote about the noise and vibration that front loadwashers can make..

Washer Problems Washer noise when spinning
heatman101

Does the sewer drain line have a trap at the bottom that prevents sewer gas from entering the room? If the smell seems to be coming from the washer itself, run a wash cycle empty with a cup of baking soda, detergent and hot water to clean the interior.

the highest water fill cycle for your waher is the clean cycle.it will fill up with 2x the normal amount of water in this cycle than any other.look for a cut or wrinkle in your door boot(grey rubber outer ring that seals between door and boot)if you find one,only fix would be to replace door boot.also clean inner door glass that comes in contact with door boot ring,any hard water build up or sediment(dog,cat or human hair)will break the seal and allow it to leak.good luck

I just took apart my WFW94HEXW2 to clean the pump filter. Here's how: Take off the top panel by first removing the three screws attaching it to the back of the washer. Remove the detergent dispenser by pulling it out while pressing on the indicated tab. Take off the control panel by removing the four screws holding it. Two screws are Torx-20 where the detergent dispenser was. The other two are at the top of each corner and are 1/4 inch hex-head, as are all the others in this procedure. If you're careful you need not detach the wires from the control panel. Just take the wires our of the first two clips so you have enough slack to rest the control panel on top of the washer. Pop out the spring-loaded retaining wire that's holding the door bellows to the front panel. Remove all seven screws from the front panel, three at the top and four at the bottom. Again if you are careful you need not detach the wires to the front panel. Simply lift the panel off the retaining tabs and swing it out like a door with hinges on the right. Keep slack in the wires and securely prop up the front panel. You now have access to the water pump and filter. The filter unscrews so you can clean it and its holder. Reassembly is a matter of reversing the above steps.

F11 is a serial communication error between the central control unit and the motor control unit.
Unplug the machine and open the panels.
Unplug and re-plug all wire connectors from the ccu to the mcu.
Inspect all wires and harnesses for a bad wire.
Could be bad components; ccu or mcu or motor

Hi there this is as it reads for your fault code F11


Serial Communication Error
Communication between the Central Control Unit (CCU) and the Motor Control Unit (MCU) cannot be sent correctly.

• Check Wire Harness connectors to the MCU, the motor, and Central Control Unit (CCU)
• Check the Drive system for any worn or failed components
• Check MCU
• Check CCU
• Check Motor
• Check Wire Harness

I believe EVERY machine will have this F11 error eventually. Here is what fixed mine. Remove the top cover by removing the three 7mm screws on the back of the machine at the top. Slide the cover to the rear and lift off. The CCU board has 2 relays on it. They have white plastic covers. One is labeled K4 and I believe the other is K2. There are five legs on each relay soldering them to the circuit board. Remove the circuit board from the machine. It is the one you can see with the top off in the back of the machine. Unplug all the connectors. Unsolder the 2 relays...brand name Omron. With a jewelers screwdriver carefully remove the plastic cover on the K4 relay. Examine the contact points on the normally open contacts and I will guarantee they will look dull and burnt. They should be bright and shiny. You can burnish the contact points lightly and clean them with electrical contact cleaner. If you take off the cover of the 2nd relay you will see the contact points are nice and bright and shiny. Swap the 2 relays and resolder them on the circuit board. While you have the board out, take a pencil eraser and rub it on the contact points where all the connectors slide onto the board. Spray the electrical contact cleaner to wash any residue away. Carefully reinstall the circuit board and replace the top cover. Our machine has done dozens of loads since I did this with no more problems. I expect another failure at some point when the points deteriorate on the swapped relay. At that point I will try and find replacements for both relays. The K2 relay apparently has less voltage going thru the contacts and does not fail. If you feel real comfortable, you can check the "wiping" action of the points by manually operating the relay when you have it out. I adjusted mine to give a bit more wipe on both relays. I hope this helps...it worked for me!!

Just take off the bottom kickplate (3 screws on the bottom). You'll see the pump front and center. Twist the front face of the pum slowly to the left. All the trapped water will flow right out towards you. There could be a sock or some other debris there. Unclog, screw that faceplate back in and start it up.

Whirlpool error code F20 appears when no water is detected entering the machine or if the pressure switch trip is not detected. The pressure switch is the part of the machine that monitors high water pressure. The washing machine automatically cancels the wash cycle during an F20 error. Wonder if it has additional issue since it won’t stop quality Appliance repair Stuart Internet answer.

sorry no reset on that model but check the outlet

There is no reset for the console. What is the problem your having with the machine?


Regards, Richard

Hi, i'm pretty sure that this would seem to suggest that the pump maybe faulty or that there is a blockage, arm yourself with a large bucket or bowl and take the drain hose from the machine gently lowering it to below the washing machine tub level, make sure the drain hoseis quite flat or level as you do this, lift the hose if you need to stop the water because the bucket is full, empty the bucket and start again until no more water runs, then set about checking the filter for blockages or anything that maybe fouling the pump, if all is clear then it could be a suspect pump,if not clear all debris clean the filter re-insert it and make sure the drain hose is back in place, try the machine on a cycle,let it fill and see if it empties(pump runs), if not, the machine will not take in any further fresh water or do a main spin because there is water trapped in the machine. so you will have to go through the manual drain procedure again as above and try a new pump, there is also the possiblity it could be the main control board or faulty control loom.

If in doubt look for a washing machine technician that maybe able to give you a free quote.

Hope this helps.

F6 code is an issue with the motor drive tachometer.

Most often this is caused by poor connections at the machine control or motor controller. Locate the main machine control by removing the top panel and the motor control by removing the rear panel. Remove each connector, one at time, and reinstall. If this does not work, you likely have a faulty control.


E1 means that the thermistor is open and needs to be replaced. The connections can be loose but the most likely cause of an E1 error is a bad thermistor.

If you're comfortable and confident in your do-it-yourself skills and have access to a volt/ohm meter you can check and replace this part yourself.

For replacement parts - head on over to SearsPartsDirect.com - PartSelect.com - or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.

Hope helps.

Hi,
"F30" indicates "DISPENSER SYSTEM ERROR" When the dispenser motor cannot be driven to its proper position this error appears in your washer. To fix this problem follow these procedures.
1. Unplug washer or disconnect power. 2. Check mechanical linkage from dispenser motor to the top of the dispenser. 3. Check wire harness connections to the dispenser motor and Central Control Unit (CCU). 4. Check dispenser motor for powered rotations.

Thank you !!

We had this problem, and resolved it. It can occur in the washer or dryer. The reason was along the outside edge of the BACK of the drum, there were tiny metal "spikes" that you can feel if you lightly run your finger tips over the whole area. They are likely caused by leaving a loose metal object in the washer or dryer and it banging around. Replacement drums are hard to find anymore, and cost over $600. The cheap and permanent fix is to use a product called Water Weld epoxy by JB Weld, found at most hardware stores, to cover over the spikes. Use sandpaper to first rough up the area a bit so it will stick better, per the instructions. You can see this on the photos. Then mix a small amount following the directions on the inside of the label, and spread it thinly over any area with spikes. It's OK if the surface of the epoxy is rough after drying, it won't damage your clothes, even delicates. We did this over six months ago, and it works great - no more torn clothes! It withstands hot water and dryer heat. Good luck!

i had the same problem. take the bottom cover off of the front of the washer. on the right you will see a round white screw off cover, it is very tight, it unscrews counter clock-wise. pull this out and see if there is any debris in it. if you look into the hole on the right side there is a hole about 1 inch round, this is the pump opening. you may have to take the gray drain hose off of the back of the pump housing and feel if anything is stuck in there, in my case there was a penny stuck side ways blocking the flow of water. after i took it out the washer has been running great again. this is obviously a design flaw, that something that large could manage to get that far, lucky for me it didn't damage the pump impeller. hope this helps. this should take care of the SD and the F21 error codes.

Hi mrcooperdog, The diagnostics for a front loader is pretty simple. I have enclosed a link to a similar machine. Watch it carefully and do it afterwards. Good luck! JP https://youtu.be/CFuosqBhfRc

entire basket, and the rear half of the outer basket as well( thats where the bearing is located

is the door lock light on?if not the lock switch may be bad, or the board may not be sending power to the switch.a volt-ohm meter must be used to test the system.

well..based on what you're stating here..sounds more like a sensor, based on the duty cycle.