Whirlpool Recent Questions, Troubleshooting Help & Support

The F-26 error refers to the motor drive system, you will need a multimeter to diagnose the problem. Your start switch, belt switch and door switch. Check the belt first. the idler pulley could have gone bad and the belt slipped off or broke. try the door switch button by pushing it in and listening for it to click. Thank youKurt

ck here...... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UylZKwzAPow Best to you

Miniplayer (i) We'll also want to shut off the inlet watersupply and disconnect that as well. 0:30/8:42 Please refer to youtube " Whirlpool Dishwasher Repair - How to Replace the Pump (Whirlpool # W11032770) "

Quite simply you locate the leak and replace the hoses, gaskets or the part that is leaking. A trick is to slip some paper under it and pull it out after a few minutes to see the area of the leak. Then you can pull the machine out and tip it back against the wall to check the location.

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to a better Category. Get out your digital test meter and check the switch for continuity and operation. If that passes the tests, follow the wires and look for a relay that operates the pump. Also test the pump motor for resistance. https://www.google.com/search?q=aqualux+whirlpool+bathtub+not+working ..

What is model #?

If it's less than 5 years old, the warranty covers replacement of the top and lid due to rust. Check here:

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Warranty%20Page%20-%203955869-W.pdf

They are all shown here

washing-machine-cycle-time-chart.pdf - Whirlpool

Whirlpool https://www.whirlpool.com > en-us > blog-posts PDF *Cycle times represent Whirlpool products and may vary by model. How much time do you have while your clothes are washing? Check our chart for an estimate. 1 page ..

Not easily unless they are just under the agitator. A full tear down, remove the case, remove the agitator, lift the drum. If you are lucky, you will find them part way through.

All about repairing Microwave Ovens. https://www.fixya.com/support/r29874712-repairing_microwave_ovens ..

Question edited for a lot more clarity. https://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/threads/quiet-partner-iii-d3-error.48241/ Also, motors buzz when the start/run capacitor fails. See if you can located where the buzzing is coming from. https://www.google.com/search?q=Whirlpool+Gold+Quiet+Partner+III%2C+D3+error ..

The bake element is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off. Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms The oven safety valve (also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter. Sometimes the oven thermostat or oven sensor can be calibrated wrong, or it may be faulty. If your particular range has an oven that uses an electronic thermostat, and the oven temperature is off by tens of degrees, you probably have to replace it. On most units that have a mechanical thermostat, you can actually remove the thermostat knob, and adjust the knob to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. On many models, there's a screw on the back of the knob with a small calibration plate or ring. You can loosen this screw and adjust the calibration plate. Remember to tighten the screw again. If yours isn't adjustable, and the temperature is off by a large amount, you should just replace the thermostat. Or Oven safety valve needs to be checked with multi meter ohms / voltage

Question edited for clarity. Two Questions amalgamated into one. Old question deleted. Question moved from Cars and Trucks. Nothing specific to that model but it shows what they look like. Normally they hide behind the back panel. https://www.google.com/search?q=Whirlpool+GD5DHAXVY04+replace+defrost+timer Aha, it is part of the main control board! https://www.partselect.com/Models/GD5DHAXVY04/Parts/?SearchTerm=defrost&start=1 All you parts in Schematic. https://www.partselect.com/Models/GD5DHAXVY04/Sections/UNIT-PARTS/?ModelID=1638651&ModelNum=GD5DHAXVY04&mfgModelNum=&ManufactureID=3&Selected=5VPBU40H&Position=12&mfg=Whirlpool&Type=Refrigerator&Mark=12 ..

the thermal cut off located on the back of the oven has probably tripped,common problem. replace thermal cut off.

All,
Not sure if this is a solution to the issues we are experiencing. However, I called Electrolux (877-435-3287) and spoke to a customer service rep (Peggy).

After I provided the information she stated that this is a known issue and Electrolux has a fix in place. She is sending new parts out to me today and I will have to call Electrolux back when I receive the parts to have a technician install the parts. The parts they are sending are, A Mister Exhaust System and a new Air Duct.
In addition, they are issuing me a check for $100.00 for the damaged clothes (100 wont cover it, but I thought it was a nice gesture, maybe you could get more).

It sounds like the Start/Run Capacitor has failed on the motor control board. The motor buzzes when they fail. The capacitor gives the motor a jolt of power to get it turning.

ck this out.... https://paradiseapplianceservice.com/washer-repair/how-to-reset-your-whirlpool-washing-machine/

Hi

If the washer won't fill you'll need to check for the water inlet hose, the water inlet valve and the pressure/water level switch assembly. Inspect the inlet hose coming to the washer for any blockages. If the hose is not clogged then check the water inlet valve for any clogs, if the water will not even fill for few seconds then certainly the water inlet valve is bad and should be replaced. You can also use a multimeter to check continuity on inlet valve. If you don't get any value on the multimeter then you'll need to replace the water inlet valve assembly. However, if the valve is fine then the pressure/water level switch assembly should be replaced. Hope this helps... Please post back if you need more information.

Daniel

Question moved from Cars and Trucks. All questions need full 'make model (what it is)'. That will put you into the right category. I moved you to Whirlpool. The Door lock has failed. https://www.google.com/search?q=Washer+F22+Error ..