Turbo Air Freezers - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

Since there is no mention of the refrigerant, and some models are now using R-290 (propane), it's hard to tell what these pressures represent. My suggestion is to remove the refrigerant and weigh in the exact amount the manufacturer requires. This eliminates alot of guess work and is usually the best place to start.

If everything else is in proper working order, either a refrigerant level issue or and expansion device issue. If system constantly runs the previous, if not, possible temperature control. Look for system cycling or not cycling.

this could be an issue with the defrost cycle. if ice build up accumulates the on the inside coil (evaporator), it restricts the air flow and you get alarms for being out of temp. usual signs are ice build up around the coil area. look for that first. be sure the door closes and seals too.

without a model number, I can only tell you the general function of most freezers. Theory is that the bi-metal is probably a defrost heater safety to prevent overheating. A sensor of some type will prevent the evaporator fan from coming on until the evaporator temp hits a preset temperature. Some freezers are setup to terminate on either time or temperature, whichever occurs first. Hope this helps some. Need model number for further help.

no they us a thermostat to operate temprature

Is it a fridge or freezer, and what are the symptoms, in detail? Is all working normally, just not switching off? Check condenser clear and clean, and try turning thermostat down to 1 (if mechanical) or up to 40 (if electronic)

Turn the power off & replace the thermostat...plug & play

The compressor runs during defrost to supply hot gas to the inside coil

Did they test the thermostat? I would think that the compressor would kick on before you got that much of a fluctuation, unless the thermostat is not sensing the change fast enough.

The run and start capactiors and relay, did they give you a reason for that? When the compressor kicks on does it surge the power? Light dim or something? It is hard to guess without being able to put an o'scope on your machine to be able to see what it is doing, but just based on what your write-up was, I can't see the parts you said they want to replace will fix the problem.

Hello,

Let's start by diagnosing the freezer;

Fan problem is one of the most common reasons for the freezer to start failing, this is called "frost free failure." Ice can build up on the evaporator coils over time, and this ice builds up until it starts blocking the fan. The fan is responsible for circulating cold air throughout the freezer, so if it is blocked the freezer will not be able to freeze any food. You can usually check this by removing an access panel in the back of the freezer to inspect the coils. If ice is built up on the coils, a hairdryer can assist in defrosting them.

It's also possible that the fan is not running at all. If the fan is burned out or the motor isn't running, cold air can't circulate through the freezer and everything will melt. You can normally hear the fan motor switch on and off from time to time. Listen for it and if you can't hear it coming on for an extended period of time, the motor may need repair or replacement. The wires connecting to the fan may be the problem, preventing the fan from receiving electricity.

Several other problems could be keeping your freezer from freezing:

There could be leaks in one or several of the hoses in the refrigerator, which results in the cold air being lost instead of circulating properly throughout the fridge and freezer.

If you have the freezer so full that the cold air can't circulate, your food will thaw even though the freezer isn't malfunctioning. Always leave some space open in the freezer and try to not store food right up against the cooling vents.

The thermostat might have shorted out, which means the freezer can't accurately determine how cold it is. If this is the case, the refrigerator would probably not be working, either.

If your defrost drain becomes clogged, the water in the line will just refreeze over and over again, which could damage the lines as well as the fan. Always check the drain and make sure no sludge is building up in it if you have a self-defrosting refrigerator.

Always try to keep the freezer door closed for long periods of time. The more the door is opened, the more warm air is let in and cold air is released. If the door is opened frequently, the freezer could be warming faster than the fridge can cool it, which will thaw your food........

Take care.

Defrost element has had it or timer will not shut unit off, check both, if both ok, check thermo fuse.
Need any more help, email me at [email protected] or call me 08 9523 0552 West Australia.
DONT FORGET TO VOTE, I JUST SUPPLIED MY TIME FOR FREE. Hope you get it sorted. Regards Russ

Hi,

Welcome to fixya.com

If I got your problem the lights are not coming up and you are not sure if there is any reset button for this. I will suggest here that there is a control panel which you need to replace. As its simple either the light comes up or does not. In order to look for a control panel replacement try this website:

http://www.turboairinc.com/TB-Sale%20Network/TB-Sales.html

You can keep me posting with any queries.

Thank You

Change the defrost control.

Yes. The heater is there to prevent condensation. If you disconnect it you may get moisture on the glass. If you cut the wires be sure to tape them up.

definately sounds like a control problem. I'd start in that area first. Let me know what I can do for you. Just be sure to include the model and serial numbers and we will give it our best shot.

does the compressor make any noise at all? If not, there is a control problem. If it does make noise I need further info and details. Let me know.

does the compressor ever stop running? If not, the trouble is in the controls. If it does, the temperature sensor is probably bad. Start there and let me know if I can be of further help.

Hi, Please set your thermostat a bit warm and observe the compressor. Also check your freezer for leaking.

Change the temperature control.

http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/freezer/repair/tempcontrol.php

Tried to find the code "CO" in service manual but to no avail and please furnish the proper model number as none you list appeal. You stated that the unit sat for 5 months so I am wondering if your unit has developed a restriction in the capillary tube as this unit uses R 134A which has this problem.