Specialized Bicycle Components Cycling - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

That should go to a bike shop for an adjustment, the front derailleur is one of the most difficult to adjust correctly by anyone other than a professional bicycle mechanic...

http://www.specialized.com/us/en/support/manuals

What type of brakes. The Shop that sold it to you should have set it up right. Web search "squealing fill in (type) brakes"

The headset comes with ceramic cartridge bearings.Inspect those bearings.--- Take the shields off the bearing cartridges, wipe everything clean, and re-grease it and reinsert it an check.----- Also inspect the carbon spacers between the headset and stem. Apparently, the fork flexes when standing and there is a little movement between those spacers. A little grease between each spacer, as well as the bearings and stem where they meet the spacers eliminated the noise.
----------Play in the headset bearings allows the fork to rattle when you ride over bumps. Adjust the headset to remove the play and tighten the headset so it can't loosen again. -------- This will help.thanks.Helpmech.

Don't use a screw driver. That means you have hydrolic brakes. Take it to a bike shop. It is relatively difficult to open w/o damage it is easy to damage. Also, pick up some disk brake spacers that you put in when you remove the wheel to prevent just this problem.

I would highly suggest you take the bike and shock into your local bike shop to have the diagnosis the problem. Other than suggesting checking the air pressure if your shock has an air valve, there are far too many potential problems to go through in this format.

From your description it sounds like a shock with no air pressure, but...

http://www.foxracingshox.com/fox_tech_center/owners_manuals/05_RearShox_en.pdf
Page 12 provides information on adjusting the Specialized Brain Shock.

This happens when the back wheel is not aligned properly with the chain. As the wheel turns the chain is being pulled to one side causing it to slip to the next set of cogs. To solve the problem first you need to loosen the wheel by opening the 2 nuts on the axel. If the chain slips inwards towards the wheel you need to move the front part of the back wheel to the left from a view point behind the bike. If it slips outwards away from the wheel then you need to move the front of the back wheel to the right as viewed from behind the bike. When the chain and cogs of the rear wheel are lined up in a straight line the problem should be solved.

On standard bikes, all fasteners turn right to tighten, left to loosen.

If you have a specialized bike, you'll need to give more information about what you're working on so that we can further assist you with the most accurate, up to date information.

I can tell you by my own experience that the click at every rotation is because the bearings on the BB, I had the same in my bicycle and after install a new crankset and BB it went away. I installed a Shimano Deore Hollowtech II and it works nicely and no noise.

you can download it from specialized.com they have a really good site, i ride a stumpy myself and have used the site regularly

Gears don't squeak. Maybe wheel bearings or the chain. Lube, my son.

Avids

Diagrams are available in the website under the support tab. Just note the you have to remove the crank on the right side to get to the nut that holds the lower eyelet into the frame (torque nut (not the bolt) to 120in/lbs with a torque wrench.... yes you have to use the torque wrench.... Push the bottm bolt in first then the top one then tighten both to 120in/lbs. The brain hose should bend under the main pivot nut and then inside the rear triangle and brake hose. Torque the bolts to 70in/lbs. Go ride!

You should have a bolt and washer that pushes through from the drive-side first. It goes through the frame tab, the right-side step washer, the o-ring and the eyelet. It comes out through the other side of the body, the o-ring, the step washer (small side facing the shock eyelet), the frame tab and out the other side where you thread the nut on.

NOTE: The step washers need to be inserted into the eyelet/DU bushing so the the smaller part is fully inserted into the eyelet BEFORE you start!

The easy way is the only way, you have to remove the shock from the frame, unscrew the spring and its perch should slide over the shaft at the rebound knob end (red knob). Be careful not to nick or scratch that shaft on the way in or out!! Put everything back together, screw the spring down so that the perch (support plate) has it's little slot in top of the red knob and the last bit of the coil (the part that is cut) is on the other side of the perch. Torque it down to 120in/lbs and go a ride!

The screen display works when the magnet on the wheel and the sensor on the fork leg are on the same side and the the screen/ head unit is fully engaged on the mount. The magnet and sensor of the leg cannot be more than 1.5mm apart from each other..... if that doesn't fix it then your computer is just dead and it's time to get a new one!

The rough turning sounds like it may be grinding against the frame or possible a bushing. If there is a place where a bearing could mount on the other side then that may be the problem, that it needs one. If it is not centered that may also indicate that it isn't fitting correctly possible due to missing bearing. If you can feel it slightly wobbling when riding it or even shaking a little when picking up speed then it may not be mounted correctly. The extra wear from an incorrect mount or a missing bearing would greatly increase the wear and cause for a replacement needed.

um white king buddy